Opinion's on summit paint-

So, my 67 is still getting sheet metal work, but I’m trying to plan ahead for paint and body. I see a brand called “restoration shop” - Seems like a decent price…Any thoughts? I’m not unhappy with the actual paint on my 69, other than the guy that did the work didn’t do as good of a job as I thought initially.
I’m keeping the appearance ‘stock’ as a restomod. The car is a 1 of 2 by color combination and so I’m shooting for a stock paint/ interior, with now a 4 speed, Shelby-esque engine bay and probably a set of 15’s for the wheel/ tire combo.
Glacier blue is probably not the most popular shade of blue, and the red interior at first thought wouldn’t go together, but it works better than you might think. Also, are there options for the vinyl material for the roof? Or is there only one real choice, that everybody sells?
The paint I’m talking about-
https://www.ebay.com/itm/383592542791?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

if you’re having a shop paint the Cougar I would go by their recommendation what paint product they’re use to working with.
Painting it yourself, I would go with a local paint supplier. They can give you tips working with their product they sell and help you out if issues arise.
Buying paint off ebay is a risk and you’ll have no support if you have issues with the paint. Could be ok, or go very bad in a hurry.
The paint also needs to work with the primer/sealer that is being used. It all needs to work together from start to finish.
Buy the more expensive vinyl top and stay away from the economy version.

I just shot my car a few weeks ago. I knew from the start I’d be painting it myself in my garage to save money and that it would have flaws from lack of experience and lack of a real booth. I looked at summit paint, which I’m told is made by Sherwin Williams, but not confirmed. I also considered the restoration shop.

In the end, I went with Kirker. I went with single stage (urethane) for a shorter time shooting. I thought the product was great. I wasn’t willing to spend huge money on ppg for example and screw it up. I did use their 2k primer as well, I would recommend sticking to the same brand/system. Some say the Eastwood paint is made by Kirker, I tend to agree since most of colors seem to be identical. Auto body tool mart sells Kirker products, they won’t mix custom colors though. So if you want a custom mix, I would get it at a local place.

I’ve not used it myself, but I’ve heard Summit’s paint is pretty good quality stuff for the budget minded do-it-yourselfer.

I also agree that if a shop is pulling the trigger, let them use whatever products they’re the most comfortable with. If you’re doing it yourself, stick with all the products from the same line.

I’m familiar with paint ‘systems’, and we all know the outrageous increases in paint cost over the last ten years. I don’t think I will spray it myself. I think I could, but I don’t have any kind of booth available. I’m not sure if it will be a “shop”, or just another better equipped hobbyist. I am shopping for a painter, it seems I have plenty of time. The sheet metal work is getting done, but at a much slower pace than I thought. My 67 is going to be the ultimate model car- in seven different boxes, three different colors, missing most of the instruction sheets!
I will see if I can find the more expensive vinyl material- After the car gets painted, and back on the road, it won’t spend a lot of time in the sun!

Have you looked into an inflatable paint booth?

Does anyone here have experience with them?

Might also check to see if someone will rent you a booth - possibly on a weekend. Just a possibility

What is the consensus on putting any kind of flake, in a single stage paint? I know that with the three stage set up, color, then effect, then clear, (sometimes effect) in the clear coat. Can you add just a pinch of flake to a single stage, and then just buff to get a better than stock looking color? I’ve a hundred times before, my 67 is just getting a mostly cosmetic restoration. Nobody cares about another 289 2V SBF powered car. But I don’t think I want to go as crazy with the effects this time, as I did my 69. I finally noticed the mottling in the trunk, and am pretty PO’ed about it. I paid that guy good money, and it still got Effed up-