I would say send in the clowns, but they are already in… 
Fix up of corroding Zinc Dichromate plated sway bar and brackets to concours specs:
Made myself a bracket for the adjustable proportioning valve:
Making the bracket was one thing (easy), installing it was quite another (a beotch!)
And a mod to move the AC condensate drain so it won’t drip on the headers/wrap:
Bob,
Looking pretty shnazy, they didn’t come from the factory looking that good!
Hey Bob? When you bead blasted your hood springs? did you neglect to stretch them out to get in between the coils?
Freakin’ amateur.
Oh, that’s how it is, huh?
Haters gonna hate…
Nice Rob, LOL.
Guess I could have at least sprayed down the “bore” of the spring better. Hadn’t thought about putting them on an old hinge and stretching them out to spray in between If the hinge would stay down with the spring compressed. How did you avoid this “major” faux pas? Now I suppose you’ll want me to put this on my never ending list, huh?
BTW, How’s the cowl blanket retrofit coming on yours? 
I wouldn’t trust a hinge to stay closed, If you have a large turn buckle, weld some brackets on the ends, then you don’t have to be wondering, is this thing going to take my finger off? 
No fair taunting back! You’re supposed to be tauntee, not taunter, Tonto.
On hood springs, I took a scrap hunk of 2x4, put a couple lag screws in it and drilled a hole for a fulcrum point so I could stretch the spring over the lag screws with a screw driver. I’ll sell you this slightly used device for fitty dollar plus shipping and handling.
P.S. Cowl insulation is highly overrated.
Interesting on the stretchy-springie-to-painty-thingie, you are a fart smeller… errr, I mean smart feller…
As for the for sale offer, I would like to counter with a bid of a buck three eighty.
BTW Rob, what color did you paint the springies? I painted the springs aluminum (silver) and the hinges natural. I think the springs actually should be a blueish-grey (as leaf springs are originally) but I don’t/didn’t have anything like that to use. I thought natural spring/natural hinge was too monochromatic.
I have a picture of an SCJ that Jon Benoit did, the springs looks silvery, but perhaps more shiny than what I used. Guess I coudl clear them after I do the rework you have put me onto.
I can put a couple lag bolts in a 2 x 4 for you. I’ll only charge you $40. I’ll even give you a lifetime warranty just like Snap On. Let me know if you want to order one.
I painted the hinges with cast-blast or similar. The springs I used Por15 because the can said it was flexible. Not concours, but I think it looks good. I read somewhere that people have used gun barrel bluing for a more authentic look.
Even though it’s not 100% correct, I paint the hinge springs with Eastwood Spray Gray.
Thanks Jeff. Did you see I re-finished the sway bar and clamps? Used flat black (although looks a little satin) as I did on the rear sway bar, CCOA rules just says black.
Yes, I saw that. Looks much better. I use the same semi flat sheen as the engine compartment on most of the black components on the engine & suspension. I don’t think anything was really flat black.
Bob, What are those Icky Black streakies behind the Balancer?? …is that Oil? … So tough to keep 'em clean after they’re driven a bit. 
Yep, it is amazing what the camera (with a flash) captures that you do not see with the naked eye! And, making matters worse, I pride myself on building a “tight” motor. I take great pains doing my best to make sure gaskets, seals and the like are put together very carefully with sealant wherever it will help (like on the outside metal edge of a timing cover seal for instance). Alas, they all seem to poop on themselves to some extent! Much to my shagrin, the (rubber) rear main seal (or, less likely a galley plug?) leaks a tiny bit too. I’ll be trying to wipe away what you saw, but guess it will return on a driver. They don’t stay “new” for very long… 
So primitive… Over here in ECI-land we are so much braver and high-tech.
Just a coat hanger “properly fastened” is plenty to keep the hinge in the closed position. Once in the down position (body side clamped in vise and large adjustable on hood side used to crank the hinge closed), there is not a lot of force trying to open the hinge (much less than when open and starting to close for example).
[/quote]
So primitive… Over here in ECI-land we are so much braver and high-tech.
Just a coat hanger “properly fastened” is plenty to keep the hinge in the closed position. Once in the down position (body side clamped in vise and large adjustable on hood side used to crank the hinge closed), there is not a lot of force trying to open the hinge (much less than when open and starting to close for example).[/quote]
You are a brave man Bob… a coat hanger! I give you “mad props” 
With all of the detail you have put in your car not many people would drive it. So I give you a BIG 
for using your car and enjoying it. Well done.
Steven
That should do the trick. Your a brave man, just watch the fingers when letting it loose.
Ha, you posted the same message at the same time, you know what they say, great minds.