Had to replace my cylinder as it leaked and was dented by the previous owner on my 68 xr7. (It could not be rebuilt, I asked).
I bought a replacement from Lares (model 10022). The problem I am having is that the hoses I bought (Scott Drake) bottom out before it seats properly. The hoses are standard and worked on the old cylinder fine.
You can see in the pic where the nut bottoms out.
Thoughts?
there should be a replaceable seat in the bottom of the hose mounting recess. Are they in place?
The other end of the hose… does it have a longer fitting? If so swap it…
LARS stuff is really no good (being kind here)… had 2 just puke the piston right out the end of the tube in a parking lot (tight full left or right). Really made a mess & customers were not very happy! The ports are deeper too as you found out…
Look for an orig one & rebuild
Be careful… there are different lengths of the cyl’s. Cougar were longer than Mustang.
The Scott Drake stuff is big trouble unless it is strictly an appearance item. I feel lucky every time I use one of their parts and it doesn’t burst into flames sporadically.
I get PS components here:
http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/
Line assemblies that fit, work and don’t leak here:
Bill, I thought the Cougar and the Mustang used all of the same parts for the front suspension for a given year. Plus 2 on Chockostang they have rebuilt original cylinders.
Try a copper sealing washer…it may give you enough reduction in depth to form a seal
Thank you for all the replies. It is very difficult to know what is a good quality replacement or not. Many different opinions.
I spoke with Chock strange and he has new cylinders that will fit a cougar. I might go with that option.
I took a pic of the tube seat hole and it appears there is already a seat in there. I also checked both ends of the hoses and the treads are the same on both. I have a email into Lares for their answer.
Trying to post, but having issues… Thanks to Jay for fixing things!
That worked, now to add details.
The Lares stuff is the issue. The cyl has too deep ports. Too bad about another reproduction that didn’t quite make it…
On other note:
Over the years, I’ve found 2 different lengths of the cyl/rod. I posted this a while back here somewhere…
So to find out if you might have an issue.
Easy test!
Go to a marked parking lot. Back into a painted slot.
Turn wheels full one way, now slowly pull out & see how far car goes /slots
Back up & repeat the other direction.
If big difference is noted between the 2 -You have the wrong cyl.
I had customer who could only back into his garage from alley, coming from one direction.
car would not turn as sharp. Since then I’ve had about 5 of these issues. All were rebuilt from A-1 cardone or the likes…
I wonder if there are different height inserts out there and the ones in your cylinder are just a bit too short? Or perhaps grind down the part of the casting that interferes with the fitting so it can screw in further.
I just had this happen this morning as I pulled into a parking space at work. Just wondering if I have to get the car towed or can I drive it about 10 miles to get home. Now I have to figure out if I want to get it replaced under warranty or buy one from somewhere else. Any ideas?
I tried to limp 10 miles home after blowing a PS hose once, but running without fluid damaged the PS pump. It howled afterwards and had to be replaced.
Craig,
I plan on replacing the pump anyway and right now no fluid has leaked from the cylinder. I am just wondering if the car would still steer enough to make it. Getting it towed is an option and then I would have to get it towed to my mechanic to fix it. The unit was installed last year and has less than 250 miles on it.
I ended up returning the Lares cylinder and ended up going with one from Auto Pro USA. The design matches the original and I had zero issues installing it with my hoses. It is the brand that chockostang sells.
Take the belt off. Drive all you want.
HA HA Haaaa…. the way that’s said makes me laugh.
Royce,
Thanks for the advice, made it home safely. Now I have to talk to Rock Auto for a warranty replacement.
I just finished installing the new ram cylinder and power steering pump. I have never done anything with steering before and trying to make sure I did it correctly, since the installation was very easy. Because of this I am a little worried that I missed something, I tightened the bolts to the frame and the link and installed the cotter pin, but wondering how tight the bolts have to be and if I need to tighten them with a torque wrench? Any help would be appreciated, just trying to make sure before I leave the garage.
Thanks,
Paul
Numbers I used when I replaced mine from Chockostang.
Steering Torque Spec’s
Pitman Arm to Control Valve 35-47
Outer tie rod to spindle 35-47
Center Link to Idler Arm 50-70
Pitman Arm to Center Link 35-47
Inner tie rod to center link 35-47
Pitman Arm to Sector Shaft 150-225
Idler Arm Bracket to Frame 30-40
Tie rod connecting sleeve bolts 9-15
Ball joint to spindle 60-90
Lower control arm 60-90
Upper control arm 100-140
*Torque to the low limit of specs then tighten the nut to the nearest cotter pin slot.
Use a Torque Wrench.
