My power steering has, of late, become inconsistent between the left and the right. Steering is stiffer when I turn to the left, and accordingly the car pulls to the right on a straight. I attached a photo of the unit on the car. Any tips on problem diagnostics ?
First your picture show dents in your pwer ram cylinder, although this may not be casuing your issue, it may affect the internal cylinder.
As far as turning hard to one side, did you recently lube the control valve/ball stud? If you over greased this, it could cause the exact problem you described. Seehttp://www.stangerssite.com/KnowControlValve.html for specific information. Also, as we discussed in a different thread, did the alignment shop align the wheels with the engine running? If they did not, then this could explain the pull to the right.
Hope this helps
Coach Jack
Hi Coach, I haven’t lubed the control value/ball stud. On the alignment issue, I am going to take the car to the wheel alignment guy tomorrow. Why does the running engine effect the alignment ? I’ll try that first before investigating the power ram cylinder option.
Straight from the Stanger web site:
“When the engine isn’t running and the system isn’t under pressure, there is some play in the ball stud. This is normal. However, when the system is powered up, the play disappears because the hydraulic action moves the linkage as it is supposed to. Remember, the ball stud does not move the linkage - it actuates the control valve and pressure system.”
In fact there can be up to 1/2" play in the ball stud when the engine is off. This is why it is important to have the car running when aligning the car.
Coach Jack
Coach, update. The wheel alignment was redone with the engine running, but the bias towards the left continues. It is quite sever in that I can turn the steering wheel to the right with one finger, but cannot do the same to the left. I took the car a power steering specialist who opined that the return value in the power steering cylinder is going. He also saw quite a bit of play on the steering control.
Being a sealed unit, his recommendation is to buy a new ram and cylinder unit rather than try replace the worn value. So looks like that the route I’m going to take
I found my problem was in the power steering control valve. The sliding valve in the control valve was not centered when the wheels were on a straight course. There is an adjustment possible. You might check your maintenance manual. You should replace your ram unit.
I have gotten around to replacing the power steering ram and battling to remove the power cylinder stud from the center link. The nut is off but the stud is really stuck. I see from the shop manual that there is a tool for this, but in the absence of having the tool, are there any trick to getting this stud out ?
I removed my cylinder recently using the tool you refer to:
It was my first time working with that tool. The cylinder’s stud was so tight in the hole and needed so much pressure to be pushed out that the centering pin at the tool’s head ended up penetrating in the cylinder’s stud with the wrong alignement, in such way that the filets of the cylinder’s stud were irreversably damaged. Ironically, I finally needed a hammer to get it out.
If I would have to do it again all by myslelf, I would consider working with a hammer hitting a metal plate that would be applied against the nut (that would be partially unscrewed from the stud) so the hammer would not dammage the filets of the stud.
Good luck with that!
I’m concerned about bending the center link, so I may take the entire link off before forcing the stud out.
I ended up having to disconnect the center link at both end where it connect to the steering link on the wheels, the (spinnel connecting rod ends) which enabled me to drop the center link low enough to get a good swing at the stud with a hammer. Even so, I need to give the stud at least half a dozen good smacks before it came loose. New power ram fixed and so far the right drift which started this threat appears to have disappeared. What seems a bit strange is the manual does say anything about bleeding the control value of power units, just to fill up the reservoir and turn the wheels a couple for times. How does the embedded air get removed.
I could ear the air pockets travel through the whole system back into the reservoir while turning the wheels. It took 5-6 compete cycles from far each direction before it became silent. I turned the wheels by hand while the car was still jacked up.
This is really helpful Coach. I have two questions:
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I put a new valve on but it is still harder to turn left than right. I see that the valve should come pre adjusted so did I install improperly or is an adjustment all that is needed?
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I get two full turns to the right and only one to the left. I know it should be 1 1/2 each way. Will the valve adjustment fix that or is it something unrelated?
Thanks for advice!
I had a similar issue a few years back. I ended up disassembling the control valve and discovered that there were burrs on the edges of the spool inside the control valve, causing it to stick. I removed the burrs with sandpaper and emery cloth and put the control valve back together and reinstalled it in the car. After doing this the power steering has worked properly.
Hi Guys, I have a oil leak at the seal on the piston on the steering ram. It is a new (ish ) unit, less than a year. The leak drains the resevoir within 2 days. Ideas on how to fix this, withnout having to buy an another unit would be apprciated
The replacement (new) repop are made by a company called LARS. They are junk. I’ve removed a good 1/2 dozen since they started making them. The cyl’s will spit out the rod when turned full, and leave a very vice pool of ATF. Valves are junk too.
I know WCCC has had issues w/ them too.
https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/14642-Control-Valve-Power-Steering-Repro-1968-1970-Mercury-Cougar-/-1968-1970-Ford-Mustang.html?sessionthemeid=26