They are soft metal. Drive a sheet metal screw in a bit then pull on the screw with pliers. Tap in gently with a hammer and drift.
Does that control valve have any sort of pressure or bypass settings that can be changed? 
(The one with all 4 hoses going into it on the center link)
Popular wisdom is that one should never adjust or modify anything in this valve. If it could be persuaded to bypass to the return sooner, that would solve some problems.
I replaced the return hose after watching the earlier video where it looked like it was coming from there.
Perhaps it actually was, but it’s not the only place.
I’ll go back to WCCC and order the 2 short hoses between the control valve and the power steering cylinder.
https://youtu.be/6cEdB52NQKg
Now it looks like it might be coming from the 2 short ones!! I guess I’ll just go and replace all of them.
If that doesn’t work, not sure what comes next.
You may want to look at this:
https://cccforum.discoursehosting.net/t/power-steering-pump-froze-tonight/9506/4
You may also want to read the link in that tread.
That hapened to me in 2018, I rebuilt the control valve this winter (Dec. 2019 - with kit from CJ Poney parts) and will see this summer if that worked.
Testing on jack stands was OK i.e. no problem full right and left turns with steering wheel pushed and maintained to the max.
I also hope for less play in the steering wheel, which also looks promising based on testing on jack stands…
Power steering rebuilding is a popular project this winter.
This is my 70 XR-7 Convertible. Getting close to have it done. For some reason the rubber block for the bracket the hoses go through is missing. I have a couple here someplace. After this project is done it will be time for a pressure washing of the underside.
I also got this rebuild kit from John’s Cougars. This is my first order from them. Hopefully, it’ll turn out well.
The return line was partially kinked up and probably was only passing less then 50 percent of its capacity. 
I’ll do the high pressure hose next. 
Also, since the leak is the only problem, can I just pull the nut off of the front and the 2 bolts off of the back after removing the 4 hoses and simply replace the seals on the piston and in the part of the housing that comes off?
The point is that I wouldn’t have to pull it off of the Pittman arm, which would make things a lot easier.
Control valve can not be rebuilt in place, must be removed.
Good tutorial: google how to rebuild control valve cougar 70 and warch videos from CJ on YouTube.