Hello erveryone, I am trying to figure out two things that showed up this weekend. I was driving around town and making a couple of trips to pick up some parts,food, etc and they last place I stopped the car when I went to start it, the battery was almost dead. I drove it home and truned it off and tried to start it and it was dead. I bought the battery less than a year ago, so it should be fine. BUt while I was hooking the battery charger up, I heard the radiator “gurgling” it was really loud. I squeezed the top radiator hose and it would change the tone/sound of the gurgle. I noticied all around the top of the radiator was wet with antifreeze and a couple of drips on the floor. I replaced the overflow hose ealier in the week as it was brittle. (I found oout the PO had tried to use two different size hoses to create the overflow hose). It has been so long since I worked on a car I have forgotten most of it, so my questions are:
68 XR7 J code
Alternator
Do I need to replace the alternator?
Do I need to replace the voltage regulator?
The fan belts seem OK, but they could be slipping.
I don’t know if this makes a difference, but I plan on putting the Pertronix Ignitor II in the car during the winter and replacing the whole headlight wiring harness as well. I also have a new alternator harness to install
Radiator
1.Do Ineed to put a clamp on the overflow nipple hose to secure it?
2. Do I need to replace the thermostat?
3. Could a bad water pump cause this?
Both
I have not been able to find any fan belts or raidiator hoses at the local parts store so if any of you know part numbers I would appreciate it.
I am sorry for all of the questions, I only have about a month left to drive it and with all of the rain we have had I haven’t been able to drive it much. Any help would be appreciated.
Ran into the same kind of battery issues myself not long ago. Mine ended up being my alt. wasn’t putting out enough voltage. If you can get it fired again, put a meter on the alt. output post, and see what it’s reading. You can also put the meter on the batt. posts(while running), and if the alt is working, you should be reading between 13.5-14.5 volts. If it’s reading less than that, alt is toast.
My alt. was only reading 10 volts on the output post, and batt was at a flat 12v. Replaced my alt., voila, cured!
Radiator, I’ll defer to those with more knowledge than I.
The coolant on top of the radiator is likely from either the cap or the connection to the overflow hose. The clamp on the overflow might fix it if thats where the leak is. If the car isn’t overheating, your water pump and thermostat are probably fine. My car makes the same noises as it cools off. You could add an overflow bottle if you want to catch the coolant you’re seeing on the floor.
The right sized hose on the overflow doesn’t need a clamp. But like said above… it could be the cap too.
I would get the alternator tested first before replacing it. If it checks out good, then the regulator is not an expensive part to throw at it. I’ve had batteries less than a year old suffer from a weak cell and was able to get it replaced under warranty without being prorated. So the short answer is it could be anything. But I woudl suspect the alternator since the car BARELY started and then didn’t start at all. Tells me the alt. isn’t replenishing the battery.
For the belts, I usually just take mine with me and have a “decent” parts store put it on their checker and it gives them the number they have in stock. It could be different that what used to be readable on your belts but still work just fine.
Sounds like you need a new radiator cap. System should hold 13# pressure when warm. If you can’t detect any pressure in the system by squeezing the top hose (warm engine) then the cap is most likely not working.
Re: Battery. As mentioned above, put a voltmeter on the battery when the engine is running. Should climb from 13.5V to around 15V as you bring the RPM’s up. A solid state voltage regulator is a good upgrade, points can stick in the old style voltage regulator, boil over the battery, rust out the battery tray, inner fender, etc.
Battery can be checked at most any auto parts store, Wal-Mart, Sams, Firestone, etc. after a good chargiong.
Thank you for the information. If it doesn’t rain, then I should be able to do a little troubleshooting tonight.
Not to sound too stupid, but how many amps should the replacement alternator be? I priced a 55/61 AMP unit from NAPA, but the also list a 38AMP, 55AMP and 65AMP units. The car is pretty much stock, the AC unit was removed by the PO but at some point I hope to get a replacement or a Classic Air system for the car.
Paul, the first thing to check is the tightness of the belts. A slipping belt can cause both issues you are having. Both the alternator and the water pump develop more resistance as they are asked to speed up. Verify that things are good and tight first, then check battery voltage as stated above by others.
Art,
Thanks for the reply. I checked out WCCC and Don states the replacment units he lists are poor quality. I found the link you sent after I posted this morning, thanks for the link I guess I am about to go shopping.