Re-Assembling Windows

I’m at the stage of re-assembling my doors and window assemblies.

From those who have done it what is the correct (easiest) order of putting things back together? They didn’t come apart too easy.

  1. wire harness.2) Weatherstrips 3) Locks and latches. 4) Wing window. 5) Main window.

What is the best grease to use to lube the window gears and tracks?

Any tips or tricks from those who have done this on a 67/68?

What is the best grease to use to lube the window gears and tracks?

I think white lithium grease works well.

I have a door with glass, etc. installed and a empty door, so I am also interested in the answer(s) from the experts re: the assembly question. I think the vent window goes in first, then the main glass. Not sure the assembly order of the other items matters.

First, do not tighten or seal anything until all the windows are adjusted. Alignment front to rear, in/out, wing angle, all may change. My doors were hung w/o glass and need some 'tweaking, which may mean pulling the fenders (ugh)

I still have not put on door panels so all the windows can be adjusted.

Having just done mine, I can tell you what worked for me (Wing frames are last) :

  1. Harness/locks - May as well get it out of the way first, along with latches and locks. The main window+frame will get in your way. Just be sure to tape the upper door lock rod in the vertical position, or you can get it hung up outside of the rear window track.

  2. Regulator - Bolt up and crank to the top. You may want to leave the rear track for the regulator loose or dis-connected. This will allow you to ‘cant’ the regulator arms to slide the window in at an angle.

I neglected to mention the rear window guide. It should be installed, and you will work the rear rollers into the channel after the forward track is set. You may need the rear channel loose to raise the rear of the window into the channel

  1. Slide the main window in front first at about 30 degrees below horizontal, and guide the window track onto the front roller. You will be able to balance the window, and slide it forward and down in the rear to line up with the rear roller. Slide the window back onto the rear roller, and secure the regulator.

  2. Roll the main window down all the way.

  3. Wing window frames will not go straight in due to the lower adjusting brace. If you rotate the wing frame outward about 30 degrees on the vertcal, and lean it back slightly, you can guide the lower brace through the enlarged area in the door-wing frame. Then slide the wing frame felt channel onto the main window and begin bolting it down.

Take care on the wing adjusters (hex keyed screw w/flange), they go in after, and the top one is a bugger. Don’t leave it out, or you may not get those wing frames flush to the outside, leaving a gap.

Also check the seal on the front-bottom tip of the wing. It is a small one piece screwed in from below. My new frames didn’t have it, and now I must remove them a bit to install those.

Putting them in…not too tough. Getting it all straight…don’t know yet :laughing:

I like this grease…

So let me get this straight - main door windows go in before the vent window frames?

Yep. If you put the vent window frame in first, it restricts moving the main window forward, making it harder to get on the regulator.

When the main window is rolled down, you have all the room you need for the vent frame.

Yep, I agree put the vent window in last. Then I close the door with the window down and the vent window loose. Line the vent window up to the door opening frame with the door closed and snug it down (have all the door seals installed). Then roll up the window and get that close to the door opening frame and snug the adjustments down to the main window tracks. Then don’t be surprise if the back upper corner of the window wants to catch on the quarter window frame. You will most likely have to do some adjusting on the quarter window as well. Then it is just a matter of adjusting the quarter window/side window and vent window to work together and fit tight against the door seal. I make it sound easier then it is to accomplish :unamused:
When you get it close install the Beltline weather-strip as this can put pressure on the glass and change your adjustments.

Thanks to Greg and Brian for all this helpful information! Rusty Old Cat goes to paint in 2 weeks. After paint I can use this information to reinstall the passenger door glass and parts.

Brian this is great information. I caught the devil when I was changing out the standard door glass to convertible door on my 68 convertible conversion. It all has to come back out for paint so I will remember this thread. As you stated above it sounds easier than it is, as I adjusted and adjusted then adjusted some more till I had everything fitting well. :wall:

Brain and Greg, thanks very much for you advice. This is exactly what I was looking for. My car should be back from the body shop this week. Now for final assembly…


your advice was spot on. It made my install this weekend go easier than expected, though still quite a task. Now all my windows and doors are together, and roll smoother and easier than I can ever remember. Maybe just some additional alignment touch up aft ether the weather striping gets finished.

Glad to hear it, congrats!

I went to put in my front corner seals and found a tooling scratch in my passenger repro vent frame. So now I wait on a return to MU. :whistle:

Had a question on window installation, and did some searching and found this thread, so I thought I would attach my question here. Some good advice here btw. Anyway, I ordered the little triangle seals for the vent window frames and glued them in that little channel on the frame. Slid the vent window frame down into place, without any hardware. just kinda letting it rest in place with the channel run on the main glass. Quite a gap on the outboard side where that little seal is. I have not spent a lot of time on it, but I gently shut the door against the weather strips, and it don’t seem like that gap is going to close up, and that seal make contact (not sure?) Is that channel really where that little seal goes? I ask because where the vent window has to sit it puts that seal 1/2" or better below the top of door edge. I would have thought you would want it to line up with the outboard beltline weather strip.
Also seems like that area of the door skin where the seal would go up to maybe bows out a little. My door skins where replaced (not by me) so wondering if something is maybe a little off there in the quality of the replacement panel, or it’s install. The door fits good in the chassis and I am pleased with body alignment from fender to door etc.