I put a few large sections of rammatt(dynamat) on mine and covered in it in foam sheet. Mine is bolted in place in multiple sections to prevent rattles. Remember you don’t need to completely cover a panel with dynamat, just use enough to deaden the noise.
This is the package I got, so far I have done the roof, doors and rear quarter panels, rear panel and part of the floors. I have only used the foam on the roof and rear panel. It comes rolled up and bunched into a box so it gets wrinkled as you can see from the pictures but its all covered up anyway. I plan to insulate the package tray the same way and use foam insulation in the rear quarter panels above the wheels to prevent sound transfer from the truck to passenger compartment.
Remember you dont need to completely cover a panel in the deadener. Best to knock on the panel and see what resonates and makes noise then add deadener to that area. For example the roof made a huge difference with this layout for me.
No need for sealant in my opinion, the insulation acts as a gasket. Some people prefer to paint the divider black and install insulation on the cabin side. It actually might fit better that way but I like to open the trunk and see insulation like original.
Lots of aftermarket products out there that will far surpass anything we sell. I just use the “good enough” OEM substitutes so I am not a good person to ask.
How about a piece of pipe insulation ( you know, the foam insulation that has a slit down one side so you can slide it over the 1/2 inch copper hot water pipe ). I know you might have to remove the deadener / board you’ve installed, but you could easily slide the piece of foam over the lower edge of the board ( it looks like you’ve used a rigid sort of board ? ) The lower edge of your deadener / board when re-installed would make a good, contour fitting seal.