Hi all,
When I purchased my cougar, the AC comp was in the trunk. I believe it is a York compressor.
Would anyone know the model number or if they sell rebuild kits for this compressor?
Thanks in advance!
it’s a York or Tecumseh compressor. Most vendors carry rebuild kits or new ones. https://www.npdlink.com/1967-1973-cougar/heating-cooling/air-conditioning-components/compressor-parts-accessories?year=1968
They’re heavy and use lots of hp to run and need to convert to 134a which makes them less efficient unless the condenser is changed as well. if you don’t care about keeping original. Install a Sanderson compressor and condenser which makes the switch to 134a.
https://www.originalair.com/upgrade-kits
Thanks Boss.
I’d like to keep it original if possible, weighing in the cost of both options. This won’t be a daily driver so I’m not concerned about HP loss when it’s on.
When making the change to r134, does anything else be swapped out besides the condenser?
The valves to the compressor need changed to 134a. Different oil in the compressor. Need a new dryer install. You can use the old condenser but not going to cool as well (3 circuit vs new 6 circuit). 134a isn’t as efficient as r12.
“Six circuit condenser has 30% more contact area that the original 3-circuit for higher heat transfer, with correct appearance”.
Got it!
I figured as much. I guess going down this route, if I wanted to ever change to the Sanders compressor, I could in the future swap everything else but the condenser and drier.
A few years ago there was a glut of recycled R-12. I don’t know if that is still true. You might check with an AC shop or a full service independent shop to see about getting it charged with R-12. Or check into getting yourself licensed so you can purchase R-12.
The crank seal is easy to replace on those.
I don’t have any experience with the pistons or bearings on those.
Hello All, I thought I would give my anecdotal story on my original AC unit. FWIW, if, if you are mechanically able to some degree, these things are pretty easy.
So my story starts with the fact that I agree with these original style problems from York and Tecumseh. They do use significant HP, they can be noisy, not as efficient, etc., etc. All very true. So when my AC wasn’t working well after I bought my car, I looked into it. These compressors are very simple. Very few moving parts, seals and bearings are very straight forward, pistons and cylinder walls will be relatively obvious if there are issues there. Simple square piston rings. There are two little valves that would be different looking to the casual mechanic. But you can buy these fairly inexpensively.
So as I looked into this I found that I could change all O rings, condenser and dryer. This was based on much research over the first winter, I like originality, or at least original looking even though I bought a car that had some originality changed by the PO’s. So I went for it with the old compressor, changed the items mentioned, charged her up with 134a and it works. 4 years later, it still works. Took me pretty much the whole first season to find a pin hole in one of the hoses. But I haven’t touched it since, knock on wood.
So all I am saying is that, if you want to try the old stuff, It can work. Keep in mind that I live in Michigan and for example during the Dearborn show it was brutal heat, the wife and I stayed comfy. Can I tell you it keeps the cabin cool for a four hour drive across, lets say Texas, no. Can I tell you we were comfy on the three hour drive to and back from the Auburn show, Yes, but it probably didn’t get much over 80 degrees that weekend.
My 2 cents, stay safe
Thanks for sharing your story, this is pretty much what I would like to accomplish as well. It’s nice to know someone has gone down the same route and had an outcome that I was looking for in the first place. Any particular condenser and drier you decided to go with?
Cheers!
Both the drier and condenser came from NPD. I did not shop around as I recall.
If you want to stick with the R-12 you might also try a place that services commercial refrigeration and HVAC.
I also have been considering reusing my old compressor and have discovered that it is possible to buy rebuild kits for both the Tecumseh and York models. Based upon what I have read the Tecumseh units are cast iron and the York is aluminum. My Tecumseh compressor has HG1000 stamped on the tag. As far as I can tell they are interchangeable. I am replacing a bad heater core and will change out the AC evaporator to the new style with more tubes in case I change to 134a later. Original Auto Air and Max-AC.com are good places to start for parts. Does anyone know how to test the old hoses to see if they leak?
Bringing this thread back to life as I’m almost done rebuilding my AC Compressor replacing shaft seals, valve covers, crankcase gaskets) and need some direction. I’m converting the system to r134a and have purchased a new condenser and drier for the setup.
Does anyone know the amount of Ester oil that should be added to the crankcase, as well as if that should just be added through one of the oil drain holes after reassembly of the compressor? Similarly, how much total charge should the AC system take once in the car?
I don’t recall exactly on the oil but it isn’t very much. The shop manual shows how to make a dipstick out of a wire for the oil level. The pressure IIRC hit 160. I originally and mainly went by the weight of the 134 as called out in the manual.
I hope this helps.