Any one have any suggestions for how the remove a stuck power steering power cylinder at the castle nut/bolt? I have been working all afternoon to get it off (BFH, heat, liquid wrench)and nothing. I am trying to save to bolt so I can rebuild the cylinder see and not have the cost of replacing it.
You need one of these : https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
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I thought about that but did not have one on hand. It will not damage the power steering power cylinder?
The tool will not damage anything.
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Thanks Royce, I appreciate the tip. Maybe I can get this off and still be able to rebuild this cylinder
Can you also use this type of tool to separate the tie rods?
There is also this tool which is what was recommended in the 1970 shop manual. I have had one of these for close to 50 years.
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Sometimes, you just have to make the investment in the tools to get the job done. A set of pullers and presses is the best way to be able to disassemble front end parts for potential reuse. I’ve had good luck with the OMT brand from Amazon. HF sells the same set but rebranded at twice the price.
A good technique is to tighten the puller/press and then smack the side of the center link to shock the area. Sometimes hitting the push bolt on the tool will do the same thing.
Then there’s the times you just need a bigger hammer. FWIW, claw hammers belong in your carpentry belt.
Ball Peen Hammer Set - 5 Ball Peen Hammers
or a nice USA made set
Thank you Hemikiller. Ordered the OMT 5-piece puller and I will get the ball peen hammers later this week.
Thanks 70b302cat. I appreciate the suggestion.
Always wear protective face gear no matter what you use. Stuck parts can sometimes let go with explosive force.
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I use mine on power steering rams, tie rod ends, ball joints - it is a very useful item.
Thanks again Royce. Not to expensive either.
So true PopsOtto. Nasty break there
So I used the tie rod separator to pull my power steering ram cylinder, but still managed to deform the tapered stud enough that the castle nut won’t go back on. Think I can save it by chasing the threads with a 9/16 x 18 die.
Also, there is maybe 1/32” between the brass scraper and the snap ring after I got the new seals in. Just enough that the seals move in and out slightly when the piston changes from extension to retraction. Does that sound right?
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Well, my Saturday morning project has consumed the whole weekend, but am happy to report success! After grinding off 1/16” of the mangled tapered stud, I was able to grip the taper with rubber jawed water pump pliers and clean up the damaged threads with a 9/16” x 18 die. I think if I had used the back side of the castle nut to protect the end of the tapered stud from the tie rod puller, I probably would have been OK.
So, after a couple years of dripping, the power cylinder has new seals and boot, and is all ready to go back on the car. What was the original finish on the power cylinder?
And of course I’m not done yet - my 10 year old Blue Dot shorty hoses to the power cylinder were weather cracked. Better replace them - again.
