Did some rust clean out of the cooling system and sprung a leak at the heater supply from the engine block. The metal tube at the block is mostly gone. I’ve just enough good metal left to run the hose down tight to the engine block and put the clamp on the very end. Any way of replacing that metal tube? With the engine in place? It’s the supply to the heater from the front of the engine block on a 351C-4V.
Does it not just screw out. I am sure it wont come out in one piece.
I think it’s pressed or rolled in but not sure. It seems too thin to have threads.
They are pressed in it will come out in pieces, ask me how I know.
Here is the replacement, or call Tim Meyer that’s were I got mine , I grabbed a spare. If you strike out let me know I can send my extra your way.
https://www.alexsparts.com/water-bypass-tube-nipple-sbf-bbf-351c-351-400m-fe-5-8-x-2-1-2/
Thanks, Just ordered the part, no problem when you get a good lead on a source. My hose is holding on so far but I do want have everything available to do a permanent fix when needed. It even let me get to my local Cougar club meeting this morning.
Is any kind of sealant used? I’m tempted to use some Loctite, their Hydraulic system sealant is thin and should wick into the crevice.
Its not a bad idea to use Loctite but doing it in car there is always antifreeze sitting in that part of the block. They go in pretty snug a least mine did I just used a wooden hammer handle to drive it in.
You might try putting the part in the freezer for a few hours for it to shrink just a tad before installing it, if it is a press-fit.
Thanks for the freezer suggestion. Every little bit can help. I’ll probably build myself a couple of tools too. A tube collapsing tool to carefully run in on the tube OD (maybe after weakening it with a partial saw cut - stopping short of the block) and a driver to help keep the nipple perfectly straight while pounding it in.
Here’s a video from the Autorestomod guys working on a 390 with a similar smooth hose connecter. The part related to your issue starts around 13:40.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GIqwil1ewK4
Hope this helps.
Rick
I bought mine from Alex’s Parts as per the link in this thread. Going in was no problem on my 351C. Tap in with a block of hard wood. I put some Permatex #2 sealant around it and never had any leaks.
Removing the rusted part on the other hand is tough. Try your best to keep it in one piece because fishing out the broken bits with a magnet is very touchy. I would recommend a coarse screw inside the existing connected to a slide hammer and tapping straight upward. Good luck.