So I posted earlier today on a window fitment thread about getting my vent windows to install and seal up correctly. I figured out what the problem is. So a brief explanation goes as follows; I had my body work and paint done by a local tech school. One of the young men is the son of a friend of mine who was going there at the time for auto body. Him and a class mate did the body work and paint for there graduating project. I am quite please with the results. I didn’t have to pay body shop price, and I got a better job done than I could have did myself (I feel)
So onto the vent window problem. The ‘boys’ replaced the door skins. Between comparing the two doors in the vent window location and watching some videos on replacing a 67 stang skin (couldn’t find cougar ones) I know now my problem most likely lies in the fact that the two tabs that tie the outer skin to the inner are not connected, and on the drivers door the smaller tab of the two is non existent. So I think here in is the problem.
So now what to do? 
I need to attach the tabs on the passengers side, and do the same and recreate one on the drivers side, and I will need to do this probably with just pop rivets as to not burn off paint or wreck anything else (dash is all in)
Don’t really feel like pulling the doors off, and that don’t help the applying heat to new paint.
Looking for input. Also need to know some reference measurements on how wide that gap is suppose to be from inside panel to outside. I don’t have any spare doors around to check. Hopefully someone out there does, and can maybe even send me some photos.
Thanks in advance!!! If you PM me I will be happy to give a call also.
David
If you would post pics of the issue guys like myself who have bare doors can respond with pics showing measurements. Where on earth did you locate door skins? I have been doing this since I was a kid and never once owned a pair.
I got the skins with the car when I bought it, so can’t help you on that one. They fit good and match body lines pretty well. I know there is some yellow numbering on what would be the insides of them in red oxide primer. I have a front valance like that also. I will try to get some pics and get them on here. Little challenged when it comes to that stuff 
Here are the pics. Two of the drivers side and two passengers. Need to fasten and recreate tabs and need to know correct gap/space between outer and inner panel at some reference points.
On a side note thinking these panels must have been some NOS ones acquired from somewhere. The ps side one for example has a C7WY-6520200-A on the inside of it in yellow. Didn’t read the ds.
David
Any takers on this question? Really want to get my doors together. Just need gap distance from the flat face where the outside belt line strip fastens measured to the inside up lip where I guess the inside panel hooks over. I’m sure someone must have a stripped door shell out there.
It dawned on me last night when I was in the shop, if I get the spots to be welded down to good clean metal I could just use my tig welder. No sparks flying around with that like using the mig. I have too many welders I guess 
I can measure mine for you tonight. I have my doors stripped down currently
That would be great, thanks a bunch!
Still looking for that measurement if anyone can give it to me.
Thanks!
just curious, what year?
I did take a picture of it for you but got side track with the kiddos while going for my tape measure. I will see about getting that for you today
Trixie,
67 model year.
Don,
Really apologize for the misunderstanding, but I need the gap distance in between from the face where the belt line weather strip would go to that vertical lip on the inner structural panel.
Thanks!
I’ll check measuring it the way you did. Here is what I have from a different spot holding the tape different. Wonder how much tolerance they allowed? Probably were jigged and welded.
So I am noticing by that picture that there appears to be a foam or foam rubber piece stuck to the door edge. I thought the seal was the little wedge shaped piece that glued to the wing (vent) window. Is it possible they had more that one seal in that area, with one mating (pressing) into the other?
That would be these seals
https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/67vntfrm.html?attribs=75
Yep, ordered those. Glued them into the little channel in the vent window frame. They don’t seem like they are going to close the gap up hence the reason to know that gap and get my tabs reattached from inside to outside. That channel are though when vent window is installed is about 1/2inch below top of door edge. Seems like it should be up further.
Seeing as how the outer doors skin is already painted, I would not take a chance on welding it. If it was mine,I would use Lord Fusor® 2098 Crash Durable Structural Adhesive, simpler prep and incredible holding strength, easy cleanup if Mr Murphy pops up and causes a little spillage. It is used in building of new vehicles and in collision repair. I use it for extra strength when restoring vintage Porsches. You can easily bend up a tab and glue the inner and outer shells together. My vent windows are still in and I havent started the disassembly. If you dont have a way of fabricating the a piece to glue in, give me the distance between the inner and outer skin and I will quickly bend you up a tab to be glued in place. when the seals and vent window is back in,we wont tell anybody and no one will ever know.
Hey thanks for the input. I did get them back together. I actually tig welded them ( no sparks) Was able to shear and bend up some small tabs for the missing ones. Biggest thing with the tig welding was to get all impurities out otherwise it doesn’t weld the best. I was very careful on watching how much heat I allowed to get in the “picture” I even flash cooled down with a cold wet soaked rag several times.
Both doors turned out great. Passenger side door alignment stayed fine. Drivers door actually had a twist to it without the tabs attached. So much so that the long bolt that goes through the vent window frame… well the hole on the inside panel was a complete hole off from the threaded weldnut on the tab on the outer panel. I made a “dummy” spacer to represent the thickness of the vent window frame, and getting in the right Yoga position 
held in on the bottom outside of the door with my knee, pushed out on the top inside corner and the door twisted back to a point where the bolt path came into alignment. Held it there and tightened the bolt to hold it, then fabricated tabs and welded in. Took bolt out, and wahla it stayed. Down side; now the door alignment is off. I have never adjusted a door before, so on to learning something new!
Also wondering if anyone has ever had this happen…I got the passengers door all done. Glass in and aligned, weather strip glued on. Very pleased with the results with body lines, windows to opening etc. While working on the drivers door however I thought I would put a used sill plate in place to make the sit a little more comfortable while working. Upon starting to do some adjusting I’m noticing that the door won’t shut all the way. Well I figure the door does need to be adjusted so it is bumping somewhere. Well it does/is. On the bottom of my doors are some channels spot welded on. Straight side on the “outboard” side, but wavey cut on the inside. The perimeter weather strip runs in this channel So the wavey is bumping the sill plate, so now I have scratched paint on that piece (touch up…crap 
) So I thought crap…what happens if I attach a sill plate on the passengers side that I have all done and like the way it fits/looks? Sure enough bumps the sill plate. So now what? do those tabs need to be tweaked up some? they sure seem like they stick down a ways. It almost looks like they are suppose to pinch the lower perimeter weather strip. No way they will do that where they are at. Only other thing would be to raise the door up in the opening so they clear, but I have good lines and gaps in the jamb.
Suggestions? Will try to get a photo of it later today.
David