Just got done tearing my second replacement switch from WCCC. Guess I’ll wait until I get paid this week to order my 3rd attempt.
Mostly just a venting post.
First one I used a thin plastic trim tool to squeeze it in but that tore the “sidewall” of the switch pretty quickly so I ordered another switch while I was out of town and started that today after using the first switch to figure out a better method. New method was to install the back edge of the switch and then compress the width of the switch with a smooth wide metal trim tool while pressing the switch into the groove. This worked quite well until the last couple inches when my thumbs were tired and I should have used more soap. Ended up starting a couple tears right where they will see a lot of contact. Also didn’t have the switch quite centered so it would require a bit of trimming to ensure it didn’t cross contact end to end.
What a frustrating install, I see why they didn’t list any replacement procedure in the FSM. I am curious to see what the installation tooling was at the factory, they certainly weren’t molded in place.
I’ve watched the video from Manic Mechanic, but his method definitely caused tears when I tried it with my first switch.
That’s weird. I really have no trouble installing the switches. I just have trouble with them being shorted right out of the box. The reproductions are a lot of trouble.
The popsicle stick they send with the kit needs to be filed thinner on the edges. You’re not poking it in the steering wheel as much as applying pressure on the switch right where the stick has been. That’s why silicone, a warm wheel and switch are a good idea
OMG, I HATE THAT THING! Im on my second length of rubber from hell. I’ve tried several different tools and methods. After i destroyed the first one i used it for practice and experimentation. To Royce’s cooment, i attached a multimeter to the leads and set it on audible to keep from damaging the internals.
Bottom line, didn’t work. I pulled the copper ribboms out, and am in the process of juat putting the rubber in the slot. I’ll just use the button i installed a couple yeard ago to honk the horn.
Mike M.
I never even attempted to make the internal wheel horn work. Went straight to using a push button momentary ground button, a relay under the hood and done.
I guess I had it pretty good. I measured one, sent it back for one that was not shorted. Installed the replacement using the tool that came with it. It works fine.
Dish soap on the rubber and in the slot helped. I used the popsicle stick.