Just got done tearing my second replacement switch from WCCC. Guess I’ll wait until I get paid this week to order my 3rd attempt.
Mostly just a venting post.
First one I used a thin plastic trim tool to squeeze it in but that tore the “sidewall” of the switch pretty quickly so I ordered another switch while I was out of town and started that today after using the first switch to figure out a better method. New method was to install the back edge of the switch and then compress the width of the switch with a smooth wide metal trim tool while pressing the switch into the groove. This worked quite well until the last couple inches when my thumbs were tired and I should have used more soap. Ended up starting a couple tears right where they will see a lot of contact. Also didn’t have the switch quite centered so it would require a bit of trimming to ensure it didn’t cross contact end to end.
What a frustrating install, I see why they didn’t list any replacement procedure in the FSM. I am curious to see what the installation tooling was at the factory, they certainly weren’t molded in place.
I’ve watched the video from Manic Mechanic, but his method definitely caused tears when I tried it with my first switch.
That’s weird. I really have no trouble installing the switches. I just have trouble with them being shorted right out of the box. The reproductions are a lot of trouble.
The popsicle stick they send with the kit needs to be filed thinner on the edges. You’re not poking it in the steering wheel as much as applying pressure on the switch right where the stick has been. That’s why silicone, a warm wheel and switch are a good idea
OMG, I HATE THAT THING! Im on my second length of rubber from hell. I’ve tried several different tools and methods. After i destroyed the first one i used it for practice and experimentation. To Royce’s cooment, i attached a multimeter to the leads and set it on audible to keep from damaging the internals.
Bottom line, didn’t work. I pulled the copper ribboms out, and am in the process of juat putting the rubber in the slot. I’ll just use the button i installed a couple yeard ago to honk the horn.
Mike M.
I never even attempted to make the internal wheel horn work. Went straight to using a push button momentary ground button, a relay under the hood and done.
I guess I had it pretty good. I measured one, sent it back for one that was not shorted. Installed the replacement using the tool that came with it. It works fine.
Dish soap on the rubber and in the slot helped. I used the popsicle stick.
Does anyone have a dimension on the width of the groove in a successful or refurbished wheel? I just measured mine and the groove measures .325-.340 most of the way around. The switch is .360 for most of it and a little wider .375-.380 at the ends.
I found an old mustang forum thread that said switches used to be supplied with a gapping tool that was .357 wide to clearance the groove from shrinkage over the years. But I’d like a little more information before I start sanding or clearancing this groove.
The switch I installed most of the way before it tore was also incredibly stiff to press compared to sitting on the bench so I suspect it was being “puckered” out and the internal strips were then much stiffer.
Here’s the link to the instructions from Virginia Classic Mustang that discuss using the tool and why it is necessary, my wheel is uncracked and in great shape so this makes sense.
The one I had here came from Best In Show was a reproduction wheel. The rim blow switch I bought was also a reproduction and it came from Daniel Carpenter off eBay. Sorry I did not measure it while it was here.
I have an original 69 wheel. Bought the rim blow from WCCC.
The old rubber was pretty crusty. I scraped it with a flat head screwdriver. There was no need to widen the channel- IIRC I did use soapy water to help slide it in.
Finally got back to this project and after a little more research and some testing with one of the 2 switches I tore. I decided to open up the groove to .350-.355 all the way around. There were a couple spots on the wheel at the spokes that were already this wide or close to it so I figured with the better support form the spokes they had not shrunk as much. The narrowest parts on my wheel were .310 so the overly tight press fit was definitely the cause of mys issues. I used a dremel and a tiny stone to widen it which was tedious and not the flattest way to do it, but the switch slid in so much easier and it works very well now with a firm push, but not too light either. If I decide to go back in later, the switch can be removed without wrecking it, I test fit a few times with one of the previously damaged switches. I took measurements throughout and did it about 1/4 of the circumference at a time, even amounts to both sides of the groove.
Had to take a break friday night when I was getting bored with it so I didn’t gak the wheel, but wrapped it up Saturday morning and it is so nice to have it done.