I am selling my hobby car because I have run out of things that I can repair and/or make better. The car is in very good shape mechanically. I am the second owner. It is a nice car that drives well and does not overheat. The body is in good condition with straight metal. No accidents. I have spent about $28,000 to date on the car and its restoration. It is a 351W, 4 speed manual, with 141,200 miles on the odometer.
Asking $25,000.
Almost all electrical and mechanical systems repaired and upgraded. Here is a partial list.
New top and new lifting cylinders.
Engine rebuilt by Dan’s Machine Shop in Livermore, CA.
Edelbrock intake manifold and carb with electric choke
Upgraded engine electronics: Summit Racing ignition, Pertronix full voltage start relay, larger alternator, ignition wires, coil, headlight relay, and horn relay.
New clutch.
Rebuilt and upgraded radiator.
Brakes including master cylinder, lines, and power booster.
New R-12 AC compressor, evaporator, and condenser.
Instrument upgrades: New tach, rebuilt speedometer, voltmeter, ignition switch, turn signal switch, headlight switch, radio, and sequential turn signal controller. LED lights in instrument panel, turn signals, side lights, etc.
New steering wheel and turn signal switch.
Interior including new bucket seats.
New heater core and all new silicon vacuum hoses.
New shocks, rear springs, and tires.
Applied Eastwood internal frame coating
Repaired rusted floor pan and driver’s door.
Many extra original parts: Rim blow steering wheel, carb, trim, front seats, etc.
Here are some pictures. I can send many more to anyone who is interested.
Hi: I bought the seat belts from SeatBeltsPlus.com: Part # CH256P-3000. These are not the retractable seat belts, just three point. I reused the seat belt floor mounting points for the ends and added the slider to the side panel. I had to drill a hole in the existing side panels for the bolt to go through but that was all. There is a metal brace behind the side panel that I attached the mounting point for the slider to and I beefed up that brace to resist any pullout forces if I did hit something. Basically a large, thick washer to spread out the force so the bolt would not pull through the metal. I used a threaded rod coupler bolted to the metal brace and then the bolt that goes through the slider goes into the coupler. I had to trim the coupler down to make it all fit but it was not that difficult to install.
I am reducing the asking price for my car to $20,000. I want to move on to different hobbies and my car needs to go. As described above it is in very good mechanical condition. It needs cosmetic work that I cannot do.
