That intake has the big hole for the early large thermostat housing. None of the housings that you have linked to are going to work. The thermostat that you have is not correct either. You do have the right gasket though.
I was just in Minneapolis visiting family a couple weeks ago.
This is the one that you need, and you will need the 1967 thermostat to fit it:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Big-Aluminum-Thermostat-Housing-Water-neck-390-406-427-Ford-Galaxie-2/303217246843?hash=item469928027b:g:U2IAAOSwigpc-qz5
Thanks Royce, Some of the parts sites are quite confusing. Like WCCC lists a repro one that says it’s for “all” 67-70 390/427/428cj engines. The other sites are pretty much the same. If I decided to go salvaging do you know what the numbers are? Is it going to be a C6 number. Would rather not wait 4 days plus shipping days for the auction to end.
Rats! Wish I had someone around here with your wisdom, that I knew.
Like I cited in post #43 some of the repro parts being sold are kicking my butt, and I don’t know what to make of it sometimes. The water neck (thermostat housing) turned out to be an early/late thing with my car being early and needing the bigger one.
Now I went and bought a new repro water inlet elbow for the intake C8AZ-18599 (tall version) because the one I had was short and the nipple that goes into the coolant wasn’t the greatest shape. Says it fits 67 to 70 390/428 on the package. Threads are too stinkin small. Is this possibly another early/late thing where they went with a smaller thread size after a certain date?
Repro stainless fuel line fit great, and so did the dipstick tube once I got that figured out!
The one that you need is 1/2" NPT. The one that you have is 3/8" NPT. Easy button would be to get a 1/2" NPT to 3/8" NPT bushing at Home Depot. Paint it the same color as the intake.
Besides the thermostat housing you can tell one of the slight areas of coolant seepage on my car is around the lower radiator hose to water pump connection. Remanufactured water pump, but the lower outlet on the pump is irregular in the casting as they all are, and pitted from years of run time, corrosion, whatever. I masked the area where the hose fits, so no paint to speak of. When I pull the hose though you can tell coolant is getting between casting and hose, and eventually seeping all the way out to hose end as you can see it starting to effect the paint.
Wondering if there is any wrong in putting a thin coating of say black rtv around first, and then sliding the hose on and tightening down to spec. Leave coolant out until rtv cures, then recheck torque. Or are there other remedies for taking care of those pits in well worn castings?
Following Andy’s over heating thread close. I see he must have the premium sending unit in there that WCCC sells. I bought one of those thinking it might be better than the local parts store one I bought. Don’t think that’s going to be the case. Pricey for NOS If a person goes to the salvage yard looking how can you tell if they are original or service replacements or can’t you without measuring the resistance?
This is what I do >>>>>>“a thin coating of say black rtv around first, and then sliding the hose on and tightening down”<<<<<<<<
Only found one large style housing at the salvage yard and it had one ear broke off. That place was a jungle. Going to order a 4 seasons brand. Found some good reviews on Summits site. Amazon has them a little cheaper also with good reviews.
Thinking about a little bit higher quality thermostat. Any reason not to go to a 160 degree 33036 Gates brand or they have a 33036s says it has a poppet? Also what’s this I have caught on to of drilling a small hole in the flange of it for air entrapment, and slight flow to keep hot spots from developing while warming up? If you go with this one does it take care of that?
https://www.amazon.com/Gates-33036S-Thermostat/dp/B000Q0WZMU/ref=pd_sbs_263_1/143-2696560-9964433?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000Q0WZMU&pd_rd_r=c24af40a-a768-11e9-b8cb-31d1039f00d9&pd_rd_w=psy5Z&pd_rd_wg=33IJn&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=EXHJR3GX49E1PGB7MQZ4&psc=1&refRID=EXHJR3GX49E1PGB7MQZ4
The original thermostat was 198*; most now use 180*. A 160* thermostat is not recommended, as it only sets the floor for coolant temperatures. Low values means greater wear/tear on the engine.
If and this is a big if, I remember correctly, my book calls for a 190* thermostat. My 69 390 takes for ever to warm up but I do have a 190* or 195* thermostat. Seems to be better on the 190 vs the 180* stat. I did drill the hole as it made sense to me on the hot spots and air entrapment claims. Also, I have the higher volume water pump and thought the hole would be a good addition with said pump.
Managed to get the time to get the new water neck on with 180 degree thermostat with just under 1/8in hole drilled in it placed @ about 12o-clock. New gaskets on water pump to block, and new o-ring seal in water valve to bracket. No seeping as of yet.
Didn’t start it tonight. Remembering where my timing is at. When my brother in law came over with his light we set it at 10 degrees btdc like Ford manual says for a non GT, no smog, and standard trans. There is a note under the chart that speaks to retarding it more for fuel issues but not more than 2deg I think. However with all the searching and reading I have been doing (Anthem’s current thread on over heating has been quite helpful) I should be looking at more like 15-16 degrees, but total has to be considered too. I have to confess limited knowledge when it comes to timing. Is it just a matter of locking in at a certain RPM (is it 2500) and seeing what that total is? Then come back down to idle and see what that is? I’m thinking if I’m at 10 I should do something about that right?
Then are there better manuals to use then just the blue Ford manual for adjusting that Holley?
Like I said Anthem’s thread, and also Blitz’s on overheating have been enlightening. Still may have to break down and get an NOS sending unit. Although sounds like Andy used a couple different originals without much change. But now also to maybe consider this pulley ratio change being mentioned. First the timing.
Hopefully get it squared away this week. Wanted to take here to a local car show this weekend 
Well no go on the local car show this weekend. I have been futzing with my water valve leak. Finally got the base seeping sealed up with the right size o-ring. Used a 13/16 od 11/16 id one. I found anything other than this didn’t work. However if I hood the vac line up to the valve it leaks antifreeze out the diaphragm vent hole. So now I need one of those.
Also think I found the gas smell that I had mentioned earlier on in the thread. I am dripping gas out the accelerator pump area. Can’t tell if it is actually coming from there or running down. Not a carb guy. What should my approach be on this? (proper Holley carb)
Good news I hope, I did finally get a vac gauge on the intake. As long as I didn’t hook up the water valve vac I had no coolant leaks, and it ran ok even with the slight gas drip. It was idling at 17in on the gauge. I let it warm up a bit and it stayed steady at that reading. Not sure if one had a significant vac leak how much it would be off from 17?
Please give a shout out if you have a good water valve around, and advice on carb.
Thanks!
Water valve finally changed, no more leaks for now . Put a new gasket/diaphragm on the accelerator pump. Found a local shop that just sells individual gaskets.
Went to reset the timing. Was going to set it to an initial of 12. Went to mark the damper and found out the mark on the damper that was marked was not 10deg which I thought we were set at, but it was at 6. So when my brother in law set the timing it was actually wrong. It is now set at 12 initial.
Took it out for a drive and it is running hot still, or says it is. I took out the sending unit from local parts store and put in the one WCCC sells.
Here’s how it acts. Runs about midway between the “P” in temp and the Hot zone. It does this at idle, or going down the road 45 or 50. If I slow down and do a turn around to head back to the house it spikes to overheating then will come down to that same running area once I get going again. If I shut the car off a second and restart it, it turns over hard like it’s fighting itself (timing off) Temp gauge will spike and stay there momentarily, but will work it’s way back down to that same range in pretty short order. Checked surface temps with my Dewalt thermometer and I read upper 170s to 185 on the thermostat housing.
New 180 degree thermostat with 1/8in hole at 12oclock. New sending unit from WCCC. Timing set at 12deg @about 600rpm. Vac seems good on manifold. I have 17ish at start up (cold) and at operating temp it is the same @ idle.
I’m leaning towards a fan clutch next, and or trying to find a true NOS sending unit.
Anyone ever put a small bracket between the clutch fan to blade bolts and mounting bolts make it act like a solid drive set up for testing purposes?
I think the sending unit is giving you bad information. What happened to the original one?
No one likes science but if you connect clip leads to the sending unit, connect it to a VOM set to measure resistance on the 100 ohm scale (under $10 at harbor freight will do). Drop the sender in a pan full of water on the stove. Use a thermometer to measure the temp of the water. Write down the resistance about every 5 degrees.
Put the sender back in the engine and when it gets to that point where it stabilizes temperature, unplug the sender and measure the resistance from the connection to the block. Compare the reading to your temp / resistance chart and now you can see what is really happening.
link to $3.99 thermometer: https://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-pocket-thermometer-46586.html?_br_psugg_q=thermometer
link to $6.39 VOM: https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html
link to clip $3.59 leads: https://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-low-voltage-multi-colored-test-leads-66717.html
IDK if my car had an original or not however it had failed and had quit sending a signal at all. I recall one of the last times I moved the car prior to that and it was working it was reading hot.
2 aftermarket sending units…both crappy. Blitz really struggled with those as well in his problems.
Bill I get where your coming from, and don’t mind a little science and have all the tools here already to do it. I was just thinking with what I described, and how the thing is all over the place when I stop to make a quick turn around in the road, that maybe that was possibly symptomatic of maybe a fan clutch not modulating through it’s cycles right.
If you are reading 170 - 180 degrees and the guage is almost to full HOT the fan clutch and the entire cooling system is working great. You just have a faulty indication in the dash, likely caused by the temp sender. I’ve never seen one go bad, they are easy to check as Bill is saying. The only time I have had trouble with one is when I decided to install a new one for no good reason.