I’m wanting to do the Shelby drop on my 1968 Cougar. Where is the best place to get the termplate kit?
On line- just a paper copy is all you need. Center punch & step drill to 15/16 or 1" (Boss 302 chassis book)
Just make sure it is to scale.
Distance between center lines is 1"
Boss 302 book is a great source of info.
I have a few of the mods on the RestoMod.
PDF file explaining the process with the template.
https://cdn.website.thryv.com/7fc8b09813234ba0b3c5e3c0a1b8c109/files/uploaded/ArningShelby%20Suspension%20Drop.pdf
If you want to spend money vs drilling holes. You can go the the Total control A arm that has the dropped pivot shaft.
http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/upper_dropped.html
I dunno… that approach looks like it would give the control arm leverage to flex the shock tower metal or bugger out the holes. Think of the claw end of a hammer pulling out a nail.
Iv done it 3 times now, its pretty easy,
you can do it buy rough measurement as on the web, or spend $75usd on a template kit from eBay.
Either way a good wheel alignment corrects any variances.
I would suggest having the shock tower plates welded in to maximise the benefits of the better geometry .
It certainly tightens up the front end “ turn in “
I bought 1" dropped coils to reach the same goal.
No you havnt…
The benifit is in the imprroved geomatry, the lower stance is just a by product.
Fitting lower springs just makes it lower, nothing else … 
Blue TRUE!!
Yes lowering springs do not achieve the same thing as the Shelby drop of the arm which changes the geometry quite a bit. Dont forget to align to the sheby specs as well. Springs, Shelby drop and alignment all combined with a modern sized tire makes for a much more balanced feel on the road. The drop will add about 5/8" lower stance as well.
Here is what I used to make my own template. Remember you only want a small pilot hole in the template to use as a guide to drill a pilot hole into the tower. Also I marked each side to be ensure any inconsistency in the template are the same on both left and right. Worked out great and saved me money buying someone else fancy laser cut template.
also consider doing your own alignment with one of these. Its not very hard to figure out and it will let you do your own alignment and tweek your adjustments to best suit your driving without paying someone else to mess with it each time. The cost of the tool is about the cost of an alignment and you get to keep the tool.
Here is the overall stance. Rear is dropped by a 1" block currently.
Thanks Guys! Lots of good info!
Personally, i would give that another inch, maybe even two inch ?
Thats my feelings as well. The interior is still not installed when that pic was taken. I have noticed it coming down a bit now that the interior is going back in. I want to see what it looks like after everything is reinstalled and go from there. I already have a 2" block built to test ride height width. If thats not enough its getting springs. Probably get springs even if it needs more then an inch block anyway. After I drive it some more and find out where everything settles Ill readjust lower.
Try cutting off 1/4 or 1/2 coil off your stock springs to find the height you like before spending more cash on unproven new springs ?
Here’s a shot of the RestoMod.
https://cccforum.discoursehosting.net/t/how-low/9585/4
It has the following:
Drop-in plates under the A-arms welded.
Shock tower reinforcements were heated & pressed to the tower wall & welded.
Welding as per the Boss 302 chassis mod book & then some…
Shelby drop
Moog spring w/ 1 1/4 coil cut
Roller spring perches
Upper A-arm were heated & bent for ball joint angle correcton & then a reinforcing plate was welded to the undersides
70 big bearing spindles had bumpsteer correction. Heated tie rod end on each spindle & corrected. Then sent out for heat treating & inspection
Reinforced crossmember
Xport brace
Koni shocks
Traction master bars
9" 4:11
$259 Amazon…that’s pricey
Well guys, I got my holes drilled over the weekend using a paper template. I had to use a round file on the right side to get the upper control arm shaft bolts to fit. Looks like I am off about a 1/16. Hope I didn’t screw up.
An excellent article on the upper control arm drop.
https://dazecars.com/dazed/drop.html
and a reasonably priced template and 17/32" drill bit
https://dazecars.com/dazed/test.html#1
I bought the template and it worked very well
Did you use a 1/2 bit? I did the same as I did not have the 17/32 bit. Used a rat tail file to up the size
Yep, 1/2 bit.