I have a 1967 xr7 with the W.C.C.C plasma LED bulbs in the rear.
All turn signal components in the trunk are original.
Is there anything I could do to get the lights blinking slower?
Thanks,
Jim
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If my memory is correct , a 67 has 3 separate flashing systems. The cam driven in the rear , the front turns ,and the dash indicator
Vic at cougars unlimited is your hero
I would take a look at voltage first. If the voltage regulator isnât working properly you might have higher than expected voltage making the flashing much more rapid
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The original motor-driven sequencers are very voltage sensitive.
These 12V motors originally ran at about 60 RPM, or 1 cycle per second.
After youâve checked the voltage on the orange/green wire,
there are a couple of options:
-
Reduce the voltage to (just) the motor on the sequencer using a variable resistor (potentiometer).
A 2V change changed the speed about 50% (on an old test motor). Contrary to popular belief, the motor itself only draws about 60ma@12V, so a 50 ohm 1/2W potentiometer, inserted in series with the motor power lead, could be used to make it adjustable. However, as the sequence progresses, the light bulb load increases and drops the input voltage. This means it will slow down even more - not optimal. -
Reduce the voltage to (just) the motor on the sequencer using a 12V buck/boost variable voltage converter module. This setup is less dependent on the input voltage variations. It is a better choice.
Note: These tricks will not work on an electronic sequencer. It has itâs own internal clock that controls the sequence timing.
- Replace the motor with an electronic sequential controller.
No more points to file or motors to fail.
Vic Yarberry
Cougars Unlmited LLC
Vic,
Thanks for the reply.
Iâm thinking I might just try option 2 first.
Do you sell the â12v buck/boost variable voltage converter moduleâ?
And if so, does it include instructions?
Thanks,
Jim
No, I do not sell this item. There are many versions on Amazon/Ebay that should work.
Some of these come with a digital built-in voltmeter and a potentiometer.
Most do not come inside an enclosure, but that can be 3D-printed or fabricated.
Vic
Not to beat a dead horse but check the voltage first. The thermistor used in the low fuel sender is a pretty robust part so it doesnât fail often. I have had a few calls where I was told the light kept coming on even with gas in the tank. Turns out those cars alternators were putting out close to 20 volts. That can cause a whole raft of problems. If you are seeing 15 volts that is pushing it. 14.6 is about the max.
I donât think i told you this is on a car with a Holley Sniper and itâs a returnless fuel system.
Iâm running this with Holleyâs in tank pump/sender (12-305).
So my low fuel circuit is not connected.
I.m reading 12.6 V at the battery and running and driving itâs 13.9~14.1v
Jim
I could have explained that better⌠The first indication that the voltage was too high was the low fuel light. Except in one case they noticed that the battery was boiling! Nothing like a little hydrogen explosion to ruin your day. Those voltage readings are perfect.
Vic,
If I order a sequencer unit from you, will I need to change anything with any of the relays under the dash? Back in 2016 I changed the k-7 relay to a new one from WCCC .
Jim
Did you end up converting to electronic sequential? On mine at 1st with the new sequencer box and old incandescent bulbs, the under dash relay was fine. But the lights in the back for running, turn or braking, especially in sunlight, are so dangerously dim. Decided to upgrade to the red Plasma 6-pack and what a huge difference for looks and safety.
But then, I lost the L/R signal arrows on my dash, so had to swap the OEM relay for this one, also made by Cougars Unlimited shown in link below. Instantly brought back the dash turn signal indicators and better still the old-school signal relay turn signal âclick clackâ sound he added in is awesomeđ¤ This upgrade, as the 3-part package is one where you see it paying off every day and well worth the $$
No I have not moved on this project.
I think it might go on the back burner for now.
Jim
No, you shouldnât have to change anything else.
The way I designed the electronic K7 relay, it works with either LED or incandescent bulbs.
BTW: In the â80s, after the OEM manufacturer stopped building these electric motors, a electronic surplus house was selling 100 RPM (not 60) versions. When swapped in, these made the sequencers run very fast!
Hi Vic,
I have one of your electronic sequencer units in my 70, but it is 12+ years old. It still works great, but I was wondering if your older units would also work with LED bulbs?
If your sequencer board is marked C9WY-13A366-AR, it is not compatible with Plasma or other LED bulbs. Previously, the superbrightleds.com Tower LEDs worked with a load resistor kit. However, superbrightleds.com changed the Tower bulb design, removed the dual-diode isolation feature and they no longer work with the older and OEM boards. 
The 1969-73 sequencer was completely redesigned in 2015 for LED compatibility. The part number is C9WY-13A366-AL. It works with either the Plasma LED or incandescent bulbs.
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Hi yes the electronic conversion did indeed work with original incandescent bulbs & also even after i upgraded to the LEDs, but as i discovered and was verified & explained in a video by Don @ WCCC i ultimately had to buy the new K5 / 13A366 relay so as to get my dash turn signal indicators working again. But to be clear, i am thrilled with the conversion upgrade and have done nothing but praise your work & parts as a whole here and elsewhere online. Yes it is high quality and worth every penny spent for what it all brings to the car, the owner and even people out there on the street in ++safety and enjoyment, as theyâre the ones who get to see it all in action 99% of the time on our carsđ