Slow down my turn signals

Cougar Community Classic Cougar Community Discussion
1

I have a 1967 xr7 with the W.C.C.C plasma LED bulbs in the rear.
All turn signal components in the trunk are original.
Is there anything I could do to get the lights blinking slower?

Thanks,
Jim

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2

If my memory is correct , a 67 has 3 separate flashing systems. The cam driven in the rear , the front turns ,and the dash indicator
Vic at cougars unlimited is your hero

3

I would take a look at voltage first. If the voltage regulator isn’t working properly you might have higher than expected voltage making the flashing much more rapid

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4

The original motor-driven sequencers are very voltage sensitive.
These 12V motors originally ran at about 60 RPM, or 1 cycle per second.
After you’ve checked the voltage on the orange/green wire,
there are a couple of options:

  1. Reduce the voltage to (just) the motor on the sequencer using a variable resistor (potentiometer).
    A 2V change changed the speed about 50% (on an old test motor). Contrary to popular belief, the motor itself only draws about 60ma@12V, so a 50 ohm 1/2W potentiometer, inserted in series with the motor power lead, could be used to make it adjustable. However, as the sequence progresses, the light bulb load increases and drops the input voltage. This means it will slow down even more - not optimal.

  2. Reduce the voltage to (just) the motor on the sequencer using a 12V buck/boost variable voltage converter module. This setup is less dependent on the input voltage variations. It is a better choice.

Note: These tricks will not work on an electronic sequencer. It has it’s own internal clock that controls the sequence timing.

  1. Replace the motor with an electronic sequential controller.
    No more points to file or motors to fail. :wink:

Vic Yarberry
Cougars Unlmited LLC

5

Vic,
Thanks for the reply.
I’m thinking I might just try option 2 first.
Do you sell the “12v buck/boost variable voltage converter module”?
And if so, does it include instructions?

Thanks,
Jim

6

No, I do not sell this item. There are many versions on Amazon/Ebay that should work.
Some of these come with a digital built-in voltmeter and a potentiometer.

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Most do not come inside an enclosure, but that can be 3D-printed or fabricated.
Vic

7

Not to beat a dead horse but check the voltage first. The thermistor used in the low fuel sender is a pretty robust part so it doesn’t fail often. I have had a few calls where I was told the light kept coming on even with gas in the tank. Turns out those cars alternators were putting out close to 20 volts. That can cause a whole raft of problems. If you are seeing 15 volts that is pushing it. 14.6 is about the max.

8

I don’t think i told you this is on a car with a Holley Sniper and it’s a returnless fuel system.
I’m running this with Holley’s in tank pump/sender (12-305).
So my low fuel circuit is not connected.
I.m reading 12.6 V at the battery and running and driving it’s 13.9~14.1v

Jim

9

I could have explained that better… The first indication that the voltage was too high was the low fuel light. Except in one case they noticed that the battery was boiling! Nothing like a little hydrogen explosion to ruin your day. Those voltage readings are perfect.

10

Vic,
If I order a sequencer unit from you, will I need to change anything with any of the relays under the dash? Back in 2016 I changed the k-7 relay to a new one from WCCC .
Jim