but I’m here now.
Maybe I’ll get some tech questions answered when I ask for help?
Welcome!
can’t help much, BUT,. you do have a nicer avatar here 
Jean
Welcome and I’m willing to bet that someone here will be able/willing to help you!!
Chuck
Do they need to be correct answers? Just kidding! Fire away and hopefully we can come up with something helpful/
And, if we can’t be helpful, we can at least entertain you with crazy antics!
Welcome aboard!
Bill…I’m thinking you need to add a ?? during registration…“Did you bring beer?”, cuz I don’t see no stinking beer here…LOL.
Welcome back…also there are no strangers here. Crazy people maybe but no strangers. 
Steven
Welcome back Troy. Only a few changes around here… Mark and T3 have been appointed “Sooper-Dooper **IM-**moderators” with the ability to BAN; but only for a 3 minute time-span, and only between 1:59 and 2:01 AM MST. And for further clarification, since this board’s owner lives in Arizona, we DON’T DO that stupid “Spring Forward, Fall Back” stuff with our clocks twice a year 
In other News, T-triple C-F has an up-and running ROTM page; with it’s Inaugural Feature Car being “Local Hero” - not Mark, just his car.
What else; oh yeah! - There’s seems to be a jump in active membership around here…
AND… I have to say: my “BOOM!” thread in The Garage has been seriously lacking in member input to the jokes file. Jokes CAN be stupid ones (Think about it, I started the thread, how good can my jokes be???); so throw something in there!
OH, AND ONE MORE THING… As mentioned elsewhere in this Forum; my one-and-only trip (three years ago) to Bill’s “Garage-Majal” intrigued my 15 y.o. son enough that he’s saving up his coinage for “…an old truck I can buy and we can work on for my first vehicle when I get my license, Dad”. Therefore I’m looking for a fairly straight late-60’s/early 70’s Ford or (GASP!) Chebbie, decent body/frame (less than ECI-level rust), preferably with a stick-shift, but that’s negotiable.
I figger that Pahrump is almost as hot/dry as Yuma; so you’re a likely “lead” in this search. 
You know, I had a short layover in PHX last Wednesday, and you would not BELIEVE how JB-ish I was, trying to figger what TIME it was!!! Why do you do that??? LOL.
BTW, have never been to Phoenix before, but GEEEEZ, that city looks HUGE!
a little decorum, puhlease!
LMAO…but…but…BUT I WAS SOOOOOOOOO CONFUSED!!!
There are more then a fair share of F250’s like my current daily driver. I don’t think you could beat what I paid for mine… which was nothing. I’m finally getting around to finishing the cab out so I can lay down the sound mat and carpet but I think I need to replace the drivers seat rail. (not to mention the placement of the seats so it lines up correctly).
So my question as it pertains to the Cougar: I have a lobe that has gone down on #3 intake. I plan on replacing lifters/cam/timing chain and wanted a setup that was better then stock but could still use the stock springs. This will allow me to get the car back on the road until I can save up for a complete rebuild (or ship off for a total restore if I ever hit the lottery 
)
I figure this shouldn’t cost me more then $500 in parts and I should be able to replace the cam in the engine bay by just removing the radiator and shroud. I’m just looking for any ideas of the right combo. It has to be streetable without being too lopey and have looked at Comp Cams.
I was also looking at replacing the Motorcraft 4300 with a 4v with electric choke. Can you tie in the same place as I have my Petronix connected on the solenoid?
Finally I’m going to try and replace the 14" Craigers with at least a set of 15" '69 Boss 302 rims.
Welcome back !
Good to see you. Ford had a cam C9OZ-6259-C that was a hydraulic version of the cam in the HIPO 289 K code engine. I ran one of these and kind of liked it, but keep in mind most performance cams just shuffle the power-band around, mostly higher rpm’s. So with out changing rear gears and some other stuff, you don’t get a whole lot of benefit in particular low end torque.
I know this is not exactly what you want to hear, but considering your future plans, I would go cheap and put a stock cam / lifters in it to get you by. It will work just fine with every other part, and I would bet that it runs a lot better than it has in years. Chances are the old cam had significant wear long before it gave up the ghost. Be sure to do a timing gear set and chain while you are in there.
Oh and connect the choke to the STA terminal on the back of the alternator.
I was looking for specific cam/lifter/timing set kits that might me available that would do the job. The difference between stock and slightly hotter was only about 40 bucks from what I saw. You are right in that I would want more low end torque. The four speed with 2.78 wide ratio and 3.00 non-locker rear should be able to handle at least that much.
The cam that Milo (cougrrcj on MCN) pointed out to me - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-5200/ - was similar, but milder than the K-code cam. He noted that it was very similar to a 30+ year old Crane grind that had a bit more “gonads” than the stock 2V Cleveland grind.
Showed it to my oldest brother (sold me my first car, a '73 Gran Torino) and he started digging around in one of his prodigious file cabinets and found the old cam card on what I had in my Cleveland. It had 2 degrees more LSA; otherwise it was down-the-line “matching numbers”. Just the fact that it was ground “straight up” instead of the 1972 smog-rules grind - 4 degrees retarded - was quite a kick in the pants. Lunati has a very close, almost identical grind; but at twice the price of the Summit loss-leader; and with today’s oil blends and my bad luck, I’m just as likely to wipe a lobe with the $125 Lunati cam as with the $60 Summit stick.
Don’t know if it’s still true, but Summit used to also sell it in a kit with lifters. I already have a set of lifters sealed in a tubful of 30-weight; as well as a new set of stock 351C-2V pushrods from FRPP. Thinking I should ultimately change out the cam anyway, as the lifters weren’t numbered as to location and the Cougar had about 1000 miles put on it after the rebuild but before I took it over. The last time I drove it, the car didn’t even belong to me; it had a horrendous thump down low -rod or main knock - and I told the kid (PO) that he should forget about finding a ratted-out SBC to rebuild for his “Engine and Engine Rebuilding” class; and instead spend his loaned-by-me money on the 351 he already had. Supposedly, the teacher ‘knew Clevelands’; but, with “straightened pushrods” put back in and the Holley 600 plopped onto the 2V intake separated by an aluminum “funnel-spacer” (my term) - well it’s anybody’s guess!
One of the myriad things holding me back on the car is finding the time (probably about 3 days, 'cause I’m gonna go painfully slowly) to rip the top-end off and change out the cam/lifters/pushrods and the intake before a dust storm blows up and fills the block with sand. I don’t have a garage door because I don’t have a garage at my ca. 1958 house (only a small carport), so that hypothetical sandstorm scares the bejeebus out of me.
As for the son’s truck, a toasted engine won’t be that big a deal, as halfway decent 302’s and Windsors are still relatively plentiful around here and SBC’s doubly more so if he ends up with a Chebbie. Cleveland blocks - not so much. A lot of old mid-size Fords and Mercs gave up their Cleveland hearts so that dirt-track guys could go around circles at the old Yuma Speedway. I don’t want to lose what I’ve got now.