Speedometer drive gear

My manual says the FMX needs a 19 tooth driven gear and an eight tooth drive gear. I found the driven gear, but I cannot find the eight tooth drive gear for the FMX. I’ve looked at WCCC, Summit, and a few other spots.

Anybody know where I can get that part? Thx

Billy

It is part of the transmission,not a serviceable item like the driven gear

I’m not looking to service the drive gear. I need to replace it.

What rear gear do you have? NPD has two, a 6 and 7 tooth.
https://www.npdlink.com/product/gear-speedometer-drive-7-teeth/102655?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3D1969%252BFMX%252Bdrive%252Bgear%26top_parent%3D0%26year%3D

https://www.npdlink.com/product/gear-speedometer-drive/102656?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3D1969%252BFMX%252Bdrive%252Bgear%26top_parent%3D0%26year%3D

Yes, no problem finding a six or seven tooth drive gear for a Ford FMX 3.0. But the shop manual says I need an eight tooth drive gear. That’s what I’m looking for.

Also - I can put my finger on the drive gear and feel it turn. Is that normal? Thx

Absolutely not. I have the same problem with my T-5Z in Ginger. I’m not looking forward to repairing it.

When you say repair, do you mean taking off the tail section of the trannie and replacing the drive gear? Or is there a way to repair the drive gear on the shaft?

To fix this on a T-5 one needs to remove the transmission from the car. The shifter is inside the tail shaft housing. I’m not sure if I can do that with out at least partly pulling the engine. When I did the swap I pulled the engine out to do some leak repairs on it, then put them in mated up. To do this on a FMX I don’t think one would need to pull the transmission. I am sure the tail shaft can be removed while in the car.

Thx

Fwiw - after replacing the cable and the driven gear, and rebuilding the speedometer - the speedometer was still a mess. Bouncy from 0-30 and back, and shaky in cruise. And then after a few miles, it quit altogether.

Speedo tech said the cable was cheap, particularly the cable housing. The twists and turns the routing took allowed the cable to effectively shrink away from the driven gear and disconnect/stop turning. I’m still skeptical about that, but he rebuilt the cable into a quality housing, rerouted the cable, and now it works perfectly.

It’s difficult to say what the actual problem really was. I’m just glad it works again.