Get some cardboard and start trimming it to fit the rear set divider. Once you have it trimmed to a pattern you like lay it out on a piece of sheet metal or aluminium and copy the pattern.
I test fitted the new carpet. Looks good:-) I let it sit for a while to settle. I milled a small clamp for the distributor. Fits nicely and looks good. I started cutting the separator Plate for the Transmission.
Carpet looks nice.
Loving the project, the workmanship & the progress Karl. Thx for posting.
The passenger side floor pans generally suffered from 2 things: Leaky heater cores (as you observed), but more often, it was a caused by a leaky upper cowl, right around the “hat” that lives under the passenger side wiper mounting area. Those parts aren’t tough to source/make, but you’ll be drilling out a few more spot welds. 
Luckily I have a Cougar which has no problems in the upper cowl area. All is like new there! In my case it was the leaky heater core which I eliminated- it will be replaced with a vintage air unit. Thx for the advice! I started today to work on my instrument cluster and the tachometer which I don’t have in my base model. I bought an aftermarket tachometer from VDO and started disassembly of the not used place in the cluster and of the tachometer. See fotos. To me it looks very promising! I’ll will post updates on how I put everything together. I’ll print myself a face sticker to use the blank face. How the indicator “finger” will be made is the next question.
Started seat belt conversion to 3point automatic type belts today. I used a mono role type automatic seat belt with 3700mm belt on the role. It is used here in Europe in the VW T4 Van on the rear seats. The mono role allows mounting in any position (in opposition to a simplex role which can only be mounted in 0 deg. or 90 deg. - depending on type). Current seat belt systems can’t be used at all. I welded 7/16 UNF grade 8 nuts on a 60mm washer and welded these from behind in the triangle above the rear wheel houses. That way the roles are behind the side covers left and right of the rear seat. Looks very nice. All other mounting points are stock.
Hi all,
long time no write:-( I had a hard time and made no progress with my project. Now I have a few days and I want to use them! I started today to assemble the drive train. I have a 164 tooth bellhousing, a TCI C4 Transmission and an unknown torque converter from a ?Mustang?. Everything fits nicely and I measured all distances from the Torque converter to the flexplate. No shimming needed all seems to be perfect. What I don’t know are the specs of the converter. It is stamped with DC2- nothing else. In the web I found a comparable one which is called F-27. Does anybody know the exact spec of my converter just by looking at it ? Another thing I don’t understand is, that everybody is talking about 5-bolts and 6-bolts bellhousings. My bellhousing and my transmission have 7 bolt holes… Which bolt size is the bolt used for mounting the bellhousing to the transmission? Which size are the nuts for the converter studs to the flexplate?
I hope for your advice!!
Many thanks in advance
Karl
Another thing I don’t understand is, that everybody is talking about 5-bolts and 6-bolts bellhousings. My bellhousing and my transmission have 7 bolt hole
That has to do with the bolts to the engine. Early small block V8s used a 5 bolt bell house. Sometime in 1965(I think) they changed to the 6 bolt. If you had the wrong one you would know it when you tried to bolt the bell house to the block. You are fine on this question. I will leave the torque converter questions to somebody who knows.
Looks like a full sized factory Ford torque converter. It’s not going to be compatible with any kind of non - stock camshaft. Stall speed will be too low which will hurt vacuum signal at idle. The car will stall at every stoplight.
Ok,
thanks for the first hints! It is definitely a stock one- I life in Germany and parts are rare. I bought it together with the bellhousing. Since I have a none stock cam in a 100% none stock 408 stroker engine I need a new converter. I thought about a converter with 2000 rpm stall or is that to low? Is 2400 a better choice?
Happy Easter!
Karl
It all depends on how much vacuum you expect from the engine at idle. If it is likely to be 10" - 12" of mercury at idle then around 2400 is probably going to work. This sort of converter will be slipping at engine speeds less than 2400 so that means you will need an auxiliary transmission cooler too.
Hmmm,
see, that is one of the problems I have. Since I expect low vacuum level I already decided to go with a mechanical advance only distributor (maybe I will install a megajolt ignition, since I have one still on the shelf). The Engine is an ATK HPE-HP21. They don’t have any specific information for that engine. Except stall 2000- 2500… I already have an auxiliary transmission cooler- that is not the problem.
Greetings
Karl
Hi,
I just bought a Huges Performance 42-25 2500 stall 11.5" bolt circle 26 spline Converter. This will fit in my configuration.
Thanks for your ongoing support!
Karl
Hi,
torque converter arrived and it is a fit!
Perfect match to transmission and the Flexplate. Now I’m making some progress.
Greetings from Magdeburg
I spent some garage time on my Cougar and made Progress:-)
I finished the entire Transmission install, the complete belt drive system and the headers. Today I put the Unisteer R&P Steering in.
The way was full of rocks… Since I have a waterpump with driver side inlet I still don’t understand how you adjust the ingnition timing…I can’t see the marks on engine nor on the balancer. Is there a simple proven solution? The steering rack installation was a very special experience. This rack simply doesn’t fit. I had to weld up and rebore the mounting holes in the rack by 10mm to make them fit to the frame threads. But now it sits nicely in the car. Let’s see how the rest like the steering column and the headers will fit together. Don’t worry about the ignition wires 
They somehow are not the right ones…
Greetings
Karl
It looks like a signature mark, initials ‘JD’. It most likely is something else, however the initiation of the signature at the start of ‘J’ has a fine line that broadens out over the coarse of the signature, with the exception of a areas in which the instrument would be held at more of an acute angle, is pretty wide at the conclusion of the sign. There should also be other Cougars with this signature as well from this plant… It can too be a child’s scribble.
