Has anyone had any issues with the repro starter solenoids sold by most of the Mustang and Cougar parts dealers? I was attempting to keep my 1968 Cougar correct with a unit marked C7AF 11450 as original but so far, within a very short period of time, have had not one but two of the concours repros short out and keep the starter drive engaged after the engine starts. I did notice on the WCCC website that they describe the concours unit that they sell as a crappy part and not recommended. I would be interested in any thoughts, input or comments from any forum members. Thanks
The quality of the solenoids and voltage regulators is not great, my friend had the same issue on his 68 1/2 CJ Mustang. I bought a electronic regulator and installed the concours cover on it which is common looks right but has no issues. I am still using a old Ford solenoid cleaned up and detailed
At least some of the problem is due to poor grounding. Make sure the solenoid is making good contact with the metal of the fender apron. Maybe going as far as sanding a bit of the paint to make better contact. Also put a nut on the backside of one of the solenoid fasteners to hold it tight (sometimes they loosen up and proper ground contact is lost). The other thing is to make sure you have a proper ground strap from the rear of the engine to the firewall. You might be surprised at how many of our cars are now missing them after 50 years of life.
Good luck.
Scott is on point with his advice. Use extra care when tightening the cables to the posts.
Steven
Mine was replaced with a D2AF 11450 AA Motorcraft replacement unit years ago and there has never been a problem, so I don’t think that it is a grounding issue. I believe, as lslracing in the above post suggests, that it is indeed a quality issue with the repro units, especially in light of the aforementioned comment on the WCCC website as stated above that the repro unit that they sell is a crappy part and not recommended. Unless I can find a functional used C7AF part that I can clean up and use, that I will be resigned to sticking with the D2AF Motorcraft replacement.
The repro solenoids are pure crap, a problem that will happen when you least expect it. The idea that “grounding problems” causes them to fail is BS. A good used original or a Motorcraft D2 unit is the answer.
Don mentions this problem in the worst products video about 1min in.
I know that the repro C7 solenoids have problems, however a bad ground will also cause some of the symptoms.
There is a new, American Made, reproduction voltage regulator available now for about $50. Available in a few configurations for various years.
http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/c8af-10316-a.html
“These new voltage regulators are improved and more reliable than the units we’ve sold previously.”
Just be sure to read the descriptor text, as WCCC still has the poor quality ones listed as well.
I’ve had three fail. The symptom is not what you get from a bad ground. The symptom is the relay falls apart internally and the starter terminal is shorted to the positive battery terminal.
If you had a bad ground the relay simply would not work. This is not the symptom that I have seen repeatedly. A bad ground won’t make the starter run continuously until the battery is disconnected.
I’ve experienced the starter sticking on with a bad ground as well (probably because the ground wire from the engine to the firewall was missing)
A bad ground to the solenoid will act as if the battery is low by clicking.
Scott, electrically that can’t happen. If the solenoid loses ground it opens.
Well, it looks like the D2 solenoids may be having the same problem as the C7 versions.
The stuck solenoid happened with Heather’s 69 XR-7 convertible a few weeks ago. I made sure the grounds were all good, noticed the engine to firewall ground strap was missing, installed a new one and the car starts no problem now, and no stuck solenoid. Of course it could act up again, but it was doing it regularly before I took it apart and put it back together with the only addition of the ground strap.
When I bought my new solenoid I heard about the crappy repo ones and bought a D2, well first try on new everything it clicked power to the starter for a second and piled up inside. I got a premium Echlin from Napa, it looks better built and is heavier than the D2 and has worked perfect for me.
I used to sell auto parts back in the 80s and early 90s and Echlin was a good quality brand back then, seems their premium line may still be…
Was your D2 an original Motorcraft Ford unit?
Mine certainly looks like a real one, however I think my parts guy may have ordered this D2 solenoid from Scott Drake or somewhere.
I have since heard that Ford still makes and sells them.
Repros are junk use them at you own risk. Motorcraft D2 not scott Drake, it comes down to spending a few more dollars for something that will work well.
Problem solved. Yesterday I was able to locate a used original Autolite C7AF unit, cleaned it up and installed it. Works perfectly.