Ok…the struggle continues. Rebuilt 390 is finally running as it should, so it’s time to move on to other issues, like steering…
I know this has been discussed here before, but I couldn’t find a resolution to my problem, so I’m reaching out on the subject again. I’ve driven my car very little since I bought it just over two years ago. I have always known that there were some steering issues, so I finally decided to get into it recently now that my engine seems to be in order.
First, it was plain to see that the two tires were misaligned, relative to each other. An inspection of the tie rod adjusting sleeves showed the driver side with plenty of adjustment available either way, while the passenger side had absolutely no adjustment left in one direction (the outer and inner tie rod ends were contacting each other inside the sleeve). I managed to align (by eye) the two tires relative to each other and ended up with about the same adjustment in the sleeves on both sides. The tie rod ends on both sides are close to each other inside the sleeves, but there is still a gap between them and they are about equal. At this point I decided to also try to properly index the steering wheel with an appropriately centred pitman arm. I disconnected the pitman arm from the centre link (power steering, BTW…), and centred the wheel at slightly over two full turns each way. I straightened the wheels and went back to hook up the pitman arm again. The stud on the power steering control valve however does not line up with the pitman arm now. It’s off by at least an inch, perhaps a touch more. I have had the control valve off myself, but it was re-installed in the same position as when it was removed. I know this because I marked the end of the valve on the threads with a paint pen. That doesn’t mean that it was correct of course, it just means that I put it back where I found it.
The control valve has only a few threads of adjustment left in the direction that it must travel to line up with the centred pitman arm. It is not near enough. When I move the pitman arm over enough to properly receive the control valve stud, I lose 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn in one direction (to the right). That is to say, when the steering wheel is straight now, the tires noticeably point to the left. Hard to say exactly how much in terms of degrees, but it equates to approx 1/2 to 3/4 turn.
I am no mechanic obviously. At this point, I don’t know how to proceed other then just paying a shop to fix the problem for me. I would like to know what some of you think…
Can you remove the pitman arm from the steering box, rotate to line up with control valve, and reattach it? The tool to remove it is usually available as a loaner from auto parts stores.
Yes the pitman arm can be rotated, there are four slots that will line up between the box shaft an arm, top, bottom, left and right maybe one of these will do what you need.
Ok, so I am still really struggling with this. My steering wheel, steering box, and pitman arm are properly indexed and centred. So long as the pitman arm is disengaged from the power steering control valve, I get a full 4 turns lock to lock with no issues or obstructions. The problems start when I connect the pitman arm to the steering linkage.
To skip ahead a little, I tried to centre the centre link by measuring from the inner tie rod-centre link connection on both sides, to the inside of each frame rail. Once I was satisfied with that result, I tried to reconnect the pitman arm. The steering valve stud and pitman arm do not line up. They are an inch or more apart. To connect them together, I either have to rotate the pitman arm toward the driver side, or move the centre link toward the passenger side (there is not enough adjustment left on the control valve threads to make the connection). Either way I go, I lose a minimum of 3/4 turn from lock to lock. At least part of the reason for that, so far as I can tell, is the fact that when I try to turn the steering wheel to either extreme, the front (disc) brake hoses completely straighten out and become as rigid as coat hangers. A related fact I’m sure, is that I cannot align the wheels (relative to each other) without having one adjusting sleeve on one side completely tight, and the other side with more than an inch of adjustment available.
I bought the car in this condition. All but one of the tie rods had been replaced when I got it (two years ago). I’m confident that both the centre link and steering control valve are correct. The idler arm is also new, but I cannot remember if I specifically ordered the power steering or manual steering model, for what that may be worth.
I am extremely frustrated at this point because I know that the linkage system is not a complicated one, but I have been unable to determine what it is that I am so obviously missing. Any assistance would be more than appreciated…
The first thing I would do is find the center for the steering wheel lock to lock and leave it there. Don’t worry about the position of the spokes just find center. Then I would make sure my wheels were straight and the tie rod ends are the same lengths. Basically just starting from scratch. The Pitman arm should be close enough to make up with some minor adjustments. In the end you will have to pull the steering wheel off and put it back on to center once you have everything lined up and connected.
I have about five eights gap inside the adjusters on my tie rod ends and I have about a quarter inch of thread showing on my drag link maybe three eights. That’s just an FYI on those my front end is not aligned, but that is next.
Thank you for this. I have essentially tried doing just as you have suggested. I can get the wheels nearly straight, but the tie rod gaps are almost non-existent. Even then, both wheels are still slightly pointing in and I barely have 3 full turns of the wheel…and that is indeed with the steering box centred.
At this point, I think I’m going to disconnect both tie rod assemblies from the spindles and try to line everything up that way first. I’ll try to deal with tie rod adjustments after that. I don’t know what else to do…
What happens when you start mixing power and non-power steering and drum to disc swaps ? Is it possible this car has had one or both done and now things aren’t the right lengths ? What about year to year ? Does a 67 center link match a 69 ?
Have you checked the car for square to see if it’s actually lined up and the back will follow directly behind the front ?
I thought so as well. My research indicates the proper length should be about 15". The ones I have are about 14", so I’m not sure that 1" is causing such problems. I will be replacing them with new ones regardless after I solve my problems. I don’t trust them anymore…
The car was born with power disc brakes and power steering. It has the original steering box (which has been correctly centred) and the correct pitman arm (which has free travel for 4 full turns when disengaged from the centre link). I know the power steering control valve is correct and it also has a new idler arm which I am pretty sure now is the power steering model. 3 of the 4 tie rods were replaced just before I bought the car two years ago and are the proper length. The centre link LOOKS stock, but it is the only component that I have not measured for confirmation. The four tires are square however, I have lined both sides up with jack stands and string.
Today I removed both tie rod assemblies to start with. As the inner and outer tie rod ends for both sides of the car (including the adjustment sleeves) are supposed to be the same length, I surmised that the centre link itself should be centred (geometrically) to allow for equal lateral travel in both wheels as the steering box is turned in either direction. To centre the centre link, I measured from the centre of each inner tie rod connection on the link, to the outside of each frame rail. I ended up with roughly 9 1/2" on both sides. I then dropped the car down off the jack to load the suspension. At that point, I took the tie rod assemblies and mocked them back up to fit on both sides of the car with both wheels pointing straight ahead. I managed to get them both to fit, but the adjustment gaps between the two assemblies ended up being very different. The driver side gap was at least 1" or more, while the passenger side was nearly tight with no gap. I’m no engineer to be sure, but if the individual tie rod dimensions are the same for both sides, and the adjustment gaps are theoretically supposed to be roughly the same with straight wheels and a centred linkage assembly, why are my two gaps so different?
One more bit of information (for what it may be worth)…I found a power steering control valve installation document online, published by Ford for my 67 GT. It indicated that the proper measurement between the grease plug on the valve sleeve and the centre of the adjacent inner tie rod connection on the centre link should be 4 7/8". Mine is at least 5 1/2". There is but 3-4 threads of adjustment remaining on the drag link and I am confident that the control valve is correct.
I would enthusiastically invite all the wise men (and ladies of course) out there to poke as many holes in all my theories as are possible in an effort to put me out of my steering misery.
Ok…can someone tell me how to determine if the power steering drag link I have installed on my '67 GT is correct? Measurements or dimensions? I have tried everything else and am out of ideas. Next step is a complete teardown and rebuild with all new parts (sigh…).
I did some digging yesterday and found a similar thread on the vintage mustang forums for a guy with a 69 Mustang. He ended up just living with turning sharper one way than the other.
The indications are the 67-70 all use the same center link, so unless you got one from a 71-73 somehow in there it should be the right length. There were measurements as well –
center link hole spacing of 25-1/2" outer and 15-9/16" inner
That difference in measurement for the control valve seems problematic to me – though I don’t know the thread pitch and didn’t do the calculation to see if that would bring it into the Ford spec – that would add to this issue wouldn’t it ?
I’ve never verified my own car, but do have the steering hanging and the car up as I’m working on the oil pan. I can maybe get out there and do some quick measurements (it’s not heated and the highs for the next few days are not conducive to lying on concrete) if you think it will help.
The length of the drag link is close to 24in. long, the distance from where p/s ram bolts up to the d/l, to end of control valve is 24in. The measurement between the grease plug on the valve sleeve and the center of the adjacent inner tie rod connection on the center link is 4 7/8
These are just close measurements.
Would it be a good idea if everything was put in a neutral position , meaning that you have the same amount of adjustment on both sides of everything and then take it to a good aliment shop? I am going through my front end also. Following this thread close.
I know it’s unlikely that the drag link is wrong, but I can’t understand what else could be my issue at this point. All other components are new and/or correct, or both. I have been working on this for a week with little success. The incorrect control valve-tie rod mount measurement I previously mentioned, and the fact that the two tie rod adjustments gaps are so way out in relation to each other, suggest to me that there could possibly be a drag link issue. It’s pretty much my last hope at this point.
I appreciate your offer to measure up your link a great deal. I would be particularly interested in…
the overall length
the distance from the centre of the driver side inner tie rod hole, to the end of the steering valve threads
the distance between tie rod holes
…and I can certainly wait until your highs get a bit higher. I have my own cold concrete here as well.