What are my options?
My pan is dinged up, so its not like it is a pristine part. But, it is an original pan, so it has the right internal baffles (apparently the repro pans don’t have the right baffles). Ideally, I would like to be able to repair / restore the pan at some point in the future, so I don’t want to do a repair that would mess it up for good.
You could use an expanding rubber plug, or have a nut welded on the pan for a new screw-in plug.
When I faced this problem last year, I got new filets done with an oversize bolt. However in my case, this was a temporary solution since the pan was so rusted that oïl was pespiring through the walls anyway, so I had to get a new one before it would perforate. This solution has carried me for 3 months/6,000 miles. Please note that there were no baffles at all in the repro, but there were no baffles at all in the old pan as well… not sure though that it was original even if it really looked like 40+ years!
I talked to the shop that messed it up, and they want to either put in a piggy-back plug, or they can pull the pan and weld a nut to the inside of the pan.
What do you guys think?
Check bottom of pan for date stamp. You would want to keep it, so repairs are in order. Best to remove clean & reweld a nut from inside.
Also you should be able to see spot welds from baffle mounting on the outside w/ out pan removal (for those interested)
Thought there was a repop that had the baffels?
Thanks Bill,
There is a repop, but the baffle is different. I guess they did the baffle style that the '68 CJ’s used (C6 part number), instead of the '69/'70 version (C9 part number).
If they are going to pull the pan, then that might give me a chance to get a look at the bottom of the engine too. And actually see what may be lurking inside the pan (hopefully no plastic bits from the gears).
http://www.428cobrajet.org/id-oilpan
My 428 SCJ had a sandwiched in baffle that went between the pan and block. Does yours have that Mike?
Scott, I think your thinking of the “Windage Tray”.
I’d say that the baffles are inside the pan and no one will ever see that, right? So replace the pan with a good repro and keep your original in a box in the attic.
Well, the dealership says thier “guy” is against welding anything to the pan, or doing any sort of thread repair to it. He doesn’t feel the pan will hold up to that. That leaves piggyback plug (no, not gonna have a big ugly plug on my pan if I can help it), or replacing the pan.
Turns out my oil pan is a “correct” C9ZZ, but is a service part with a D2 date code.
My understanding is that the baffle is the only difference between the C6OZ-6675-A and the C9ZZ-6675-D, and that it is just a “show” difference in that you can see the baffle spot welds on the and tell which pan was used.
I’m not sure if there is a fitment difference between the $50 FE pan and the $150 CJ pan. That’s my big question now.
I thought that I read that there IS a fitment issue with the cheap pan, but I’m not sure.
Go with this one and you will be happy…
Thanks Don and everyone else, I appreciate all the comments / info / knowledge!
That’s the one I pointed out to them when they were talking about putting in the cheap one.
I wouldn’t think that there would be any significant issues with the difference in the internal baffle. The C9ZZ pan baffle appears to shield more toward the front of the pan, and I was reading that the C9ZZ baffle snuggles around the oil pump pickup a bit better / more than the C60 pan, but I don’t know if that really matters.
On a side note, I got a chance to look into the guts of the beast! Nice shiney new timing chain and gears (no plastic coated teeth, yay!). Everything inside looks sweet and like new. One of the mechanics even went through it with me and pointed out where it is NOT worn, indicating everything is in great shape.
Looks like they found a place here in Porland that does alot of work on CJ engines, and the fellah builds oil pans. So they are gonna take it in to him tomorrow and see if he can put a new nut onto it.
We’ll see how it goes.
Go down to your local auto parts store and buy an oversize drain plug. They are self tapping so you just screw it in. They come in a couple of sizes and there will be one to fit your pan. I have done this and it is an easy, cheap and permanent repair. It is done with the pan on the car. When you are done, no one can tell as the only thing different is the thread size.
Who is this/where?
I thought about that, but the shop guys were saying those plugs have a tendancy to continue to wear out threads on the pan, so you have to keep up-sizing / replace the pan eventually. I figure if the shop isn’t interested in doing what seems to be the easiest route, there is probably a reason.
I forget the name exactly, and I didn’t have pen / paper handy. I will get the info from them tomorrow. I tried Goggling it, but failed. Although I did come up with this list from the FE forum…
I would have serious doubts about the capability of the shop employees
Well, looks like they opted to put in a new / repro pan. Works for me. I’ll stash my old pan in the shed for now.
The story is that they took the old pan to the shop here in Portland (Aldridge Motorsports & Engineering) and the guy had never seen a CJ pan with the style of internal baffle that mine has… (really?)
He also said in order to tack on a bolt he would need to cut out the baffle and reweld it in afterwards, which would basically ruin the pan as far as any sort of originality goes anyhow.
My Pan
428CJ pan C9ZZ~D image from http://www.428cobrajet.org/id-oilpan
428CJ pan C9ZZ~D image from http://www.mustangtek.com/Oil/C9ZZ-B.html
Aldridge Motorsports is a known name in Portlanda, but no one knows everything. I have seen a couple pans like that but at this time can’t say from what…
That’s true. It just seemed odd to me.