Strut rod bushings & repair

[Cougar_Bill]

I’ve had questions about this topic & though I would share the details.
There are 2 basic types of strut rod bushings avail. The “original type” or as I refer to as “for show only” or “junk rod bushings”
are this type

Or get the quality ones that were made by MOOG- now “Quick Steer”

The quality ones have the integrated steel in them

As seen in these picture are the body steel sleeve/bushing from the factory that are usually missing or damaged by rust or by using the "junk rod bushings in the 1st picture.

The only way I’ve founds to fix this is to purchase 2 sink tail piece for plumbing avail at most “home depot” type stores.

Cut off the end the same thickness as the worn out ones, & insert in the housing hole.

Then install the bushings & tighten the nuts.
The reason you want to pay attention is w/ out this “repair” the strut rod will move around & make a lot of noise & could cause alignment issues. By using the “junk” ones the rubber moves around & destroys the sleeve in the housing. Please don’t make this mistake! Do it once… the right way!
Available at Rockauto $12.19 for a complete set! 1969 MERCURY COUGAR 5.8L 351cid V8 Strut Rod Bushing | RockAuto
Hope this helps!

[Gyrhead]

Great write-up. Even Ford’s shop manual is super vague on the correct procedure…

Thank you Bill.

[Royce]

Been using this kit:
https://www.deadnutson.com/1968-69-strut-rod-bushing-hardware-kit-small-suspension/

With MOOG rubber bushings. Works great and looks correct.

[Cougar_Bill]

Been meaning to ask Royce how these work w/ the Moog bushing, can you post a few pics so we can see how the work & look?

Thanks!

[Royce]

Rebuilt the front end on my GT-E that way a couple months ago. Did not take any pics but will have time maybe tomorrow.

Been meaning to ask Royce how these work w/ the Moog bushing, can you post a few pics so we can see how the work & look?

Thanks!

[CWatson]

Thanks for the information. I got two of those sink necks and will install when I do the strut bushings this afternoon.

Since it is common for those sleeves to be either degraded or missing, I am surprised bushing manufacturers don’t include some with their kits.

Seems like a niche I hope WCCC will fill in the future.


CWatson

[CWatson]

Did the sleeve install today. Slight variation from op’s method.

I did not like the idea of having the edge of the cut end being driven into the rubber portion of the bushing. When I cut the pipe I left it 2-3mm to long. I tapped the lip over a small bit with a body hammer, I than placed a few washes on each end of the sleeve and passed a bolt through it. Torqued it down and the edge flattened on the other side of the hole in the frame.

CWatson

[Richard]

This topic could not have been more timely. (Was it meant for me? LOL) I initially purchased the “original type” Cougar Bill has pictured, and had started to disassemble the originals on the car.
Based on the recommendation of this topic, and my own concerns with the “original type” having a single sleeve shard by a bushing pair, I switched gears and picked up a set of the Moog bushings P/N K8157 for my 68 XR7. Based on how they are constructed, what a night-and-day difference. I also had an ah-ha moment when it finally clicked about the use of the sink tail pipe. I’ll definitely install them, as well as use the tip to roll back the cut edge using the washers and bolt.

THANK YOU Bill for starting this topic and those who added replies. You’ve helped with my restoration quality.

Below are instructions for the Moog bushings.

I was intrigued by this video showing strut bushings in action (with a click issue).

1966 Mustang Strut Rod Bushing Issue

starts at approximately 0:57