I’m considering rebuilding the front suspension next. I’d like to hear suggestions on kits and what all you’d suggest I change out. It’s a 351C automatic with power steering and power front disc brakes.
Anyone?
Moog, Only way to go. Don’t waste $ on cheap junk kits (poly ones are a no no) After decades of installing Moog in front ends I have yet to have a failure. That’s why I only use Moog. Worth the little extra $$
Grab-A Trak from Mustangs Plus.
CougarBill, does Moog have a complete kit for the 70 Cougar?
Sfhess, is the Grab-A-Trak from Mustangs Plus, 100% compatible with the 70 Cougar?
I rebuild my 69 front end suspension when I was working on frame rust. Go export brace first, then try the car. It made a HUGE difference. Then I used Moog for the control arm, springs, goodmark for the spring perch - they seem to be the only repro builder regardless of who puts a name in front of it.
I also reinforced the shock towers. Used WCCC handling package - still have to get under to weld in the final pieces. But that export brace is the real deal for making a difference.
Mike, you mean replace the export brace I already have?
My front end is bad squeaky and just feels loose. I was considering something like the full kit over at WCCC…
https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/suspkit-70ps.html?attribs=79
but wanted to hear from some other members who may have used something different or could suggest MORE things that I should rebuild while I’m under there.
Yes I do!
Squeaks… I had a squeak when I put my 275 pounds into the car. New shocks, springs, etc. damn squeak still there.
I tightened every bolt I saw and used WD 40 on all of them. Quiet as can be now
Yes, Mustang front suspension parts for 1970 are the same as Cougar. I have some Grab-A-Trak stuff in my 69 XR 7.
If you already have the one-piece export brace you are good to go.
You might want to consider using roller spring perches and roller upper control arms. I think I got mine from opentracker racing.
Never heard of the “roller” control armsor spring perches. Can you explain what they are?
Instead of using rubber or polyurethane bushings, you use roller bearings.
Here is a link for the spring perches: http://opentrackerracing.com/product/roller-spring-perches/
Note: I have no affiliation with this company, I just used their products.
The kits have used inferior parts in the past. The PST is a classic example. Poly parts that don’t work, squeak & bushing break. Moog does not make a kit, but go to Rock auto and you will be amazed at the savings over the M & C vendors.
Kits are not the way to go in the case of front ends!
Speaking from decades of rebuilding front ends & 100’s that have NOT returned for replacement parts…
P.S. beware Moog now offers a cheap line to compete w/ junk offerings. Desiginated by “RK”
The correct original “Problem Solver” line starts w/ a “CK”
Lower arms= CK-8123
Shaft lit = CK- 8131
Idler arm= P.S. CK 8151
Cougar Bill, I appreciate your insight. I’m new to rebuilding front ends so I’d appreciate your suggestions on what all I should rebuild under the front end of mine. To the best of my knowledge it’s got about 87k miles on the car. It has all the typical squeaks and groans and the steering has about 4 inches of play at the steering wheel. Do you suggest replacing the coil springs too?
The Moog parts list & numbers: for 67-70 unless noted
Strut rod bushing kit- K8157
Idler arm- Power steering K8158- Manual steering -K8161
Lower control arm assembly (complete) K8123
Upper A-arm shaft kit K8131
Upper ball joint 4 bolt (67 to 69) K8036 4 bolt 70 & later & replacement arms assemblies)
Lower control arm cam alignment bolt kit : K8243A
Steering:
Inner tie rods
ES360RL- 67-69 outer
ES364RL- 67-69 Inner
ES387RL Elim & 70 outer
ES387L Elim & 70 outer
Tie rod sleeves- a must- Don’t skip these!
Spring saddles/perches- After market like Goodmark
Upper control arm grease zerk kit- Scott Drake
Your original upper arms will be reused. Install shaft kit & tack weld the large outer nuts to the arm so they won’t unscrew!
Coil springs should be OK, but it they are weak & bottom out, then you have a large selection to choose from.
I use the K8356 for the 69 & 70’s This is a bit too stiff for the lighter 67 & 8 Cats. Rates out at 418Lbs.
I also do the “Shelby 1” drop on almost all cars.
If you don’t replace all of these components there is a great chance you will not solve the issues.
Do it once & your kids will never have to deal with this again!.
Hope this help everyone.
Feel free to ask any questions.
P.S. About the extra play in your steering. There are a few places this can come from.
- Steering gear box. Should be rebuilt after 48-50 years. Many very good places to have this done.
- Rag joint
- Column bearings- oddly enough!
- Other loose components- Wheel bearings- Idler arm- Tie rods & sleeves Ball joints.
So back to the beginning…
Replace the complete front suspension & steering components with Moog and spend a few extra $.
Get a good alignment from the oldest guy in the shop! Then test & see what if anything is still wrong.
WCCC videos can help.
Good luck Take your time get a helper & BEWARE of the spring compressor! Suggest getting someone who has done this & has the correct compressor to show you how. The only UN-fun part!
good quote 
I have had a few customers make requests like that before for me.
but when it come to alignments always ask for a before and after printout before any works begins. Even if you don’t understand printout you could still post it here for members to explain.
Also as an old alignment tech it is a good idea to also ask “when last calibration was done on alignment equipment”. Although some of these newer machine might self calibrate. 
I go to an alignment shop which opened circa 1986 by his father; the main person is 60 yo and does alignments like nobody’s business. He has a camber/caster gauge and a toe-in gauge: simple tools. He aligns things by feel and is extremely accurate, due to his experience. I took by 66 Mustang in after it was restored and I did a garage-based alignment, getting it close. Within 10 minutes, he says it needs one more shim on the driver’s side…he selects a shim from a big box, puts it in and I get a perfect alignment for $40. I just took my 2010 MKX with a pull to the right; he found toe-in to be 0.5" instead of 0.0"; caster and camber were dead on. He adjusted tie rods and nailed it within 10 minutes. Determined I had a bad tire for the pull after he took it for a test drive. Cost? $38. Unbelievable. Finding someone like him is worth the effort. They are still out there, folks…just hard to find.
Great advice everyone. Thank you!
Midlife-You are absolutely correct. My alignment guy that I went to forever just closed shop to retire.
I paraphrase John Lennon when he heard the Beatles’ manager Brian Epstein died, “I’m fucked now”.