Seeking advice on whether to reuse my 3/4" front sway bar or upgrade to a larger stiffer sway bar on my 1969 XR7 M code, FMX A/C. Keeping essentially stock. Interested in opinions on the subject and whether to upgrade to larger used sway bars or reproductions.
The first question is what you are trying to accomplish. You’re going to pay a lot more for an original 15/16" bar because they aren’t common.
If you’re wanting handling improvement a single sway bar isn’t going to change anything.
What have you done thus far as far as upgrades, changes, rebuilt front end? We can get you pointed in a direction when we know what you’re starting from and what you want the outcome to be.
-Keith
Thanks Keith. Planning on keeping as close to stock as practical. The bushing are shot on the frame mounts with the current sway bar. Has about three layers of paint and crud that need to be removed. Cleaning and painting engine bay exterior. I plan on driving the car for fun, no racing. If the current sway bar is sufficient I will stick with it. Installing Scott Drake suspension parts, no Shelby drop or coil over planned.
Everything is apart so now is a good time to make changes where practical.
Stick with the bar you have with new bushings and end links.
Factory Sway bars kinda Suck! If you install the correct combination of a front and rear bar you will never regret it.
I ditched the 7/8 factory and 1/2" rear for 1 1/8 and 7/8. Its not the same car and it is far safer then 50 year old fatigued steel.
Do some comparisons as to materials, Addco uses ‘cold rolled’ spring steel and engineers front and rears to work together.
Beware of their ‘inside the frame’ U-bolt on the rear bars…
https://addcoswaybars.net/how-it-works/
1 1/8 is overkill. However, the factory bars leave much to be desired. 1" front, 3/4" rear and KYB’s or Koni’s would make a huge difference. I also did the Arning drop with the upper control arms. Global West 635LB front coils and 175LB rear leafs 1" lower than stock and the Traction master/Shelby traction bars. He’s right, don’t buy cheap stuff. What engine is in your Cougar?
-Keith
Go back and read the first post
351 4V
Look into Traction Master. Their front sway bar fits like a glove and is a nice upgrade without breaking the bank. Metropartsmarket.com carries TMC parts.
What information were were you expecting me to ascertain? I read the post. No information about displacement. As for the “small bar” they’re horrid.
If you had the 7/8 or 15/16 I would suggest he put links and bushings on it. It’s why I asked what his intentions were.
1969 “M” code was indicated in the first post of this topic by member halbey. M code = 351 Windsor .
It’s not overkill, I run that bar set up with lowered 1” upper global west as well as global west lowers. Koni adjustables and lowered CJ springs all the way around. Ran 1:05s at Lime Rock with this set up.
Most of my knowledge is 65-68 vehicles. No M for those years. I elected not to go larger than 1" based on the recommendation of those over at the SAAC racing the vehicles. With the FE came limitations as well because of oil filter clearance. We have a similar set up, I just have a lighter vehicle.
Do you have manual or power steering on your Cougar?
That set up is in my 67 Shelby, and it has power steering. From a handling standpoint manual would be better, but my Shelby is modified to still appear stock and kinda hide my many “performance enhancements”.
I tried to hide much of mine too. I even had the front sway bar done and added the factory green and yellow stripe in the middle. Much is only caught by sharp eyes. I just wish there was more that could be done with the steering that wouldn’t be abundantly obvious.
-Keith
If you go with a larger diameter front one, be sure to add a rear one as well or you can spin out easy.
My '69 is also an M code that came stock with a 3/4" front bar. I replaced it with a 15/16" bar from a '70 Mach 1. (This was back in the '80s when finding wrecked Mach 1s, Torino Cobras and the like in the local salvage wasn’t particularly uncommon.) Anyhow, it made a noticeable difference, and I drove it that way for years. When I eventually added a rear 5/8" bar, I wished I’d done it sooner. It added balance to the handling I didn’t realize was lacking, which made the car feel lighter and more responsive.
I’d also urge you to reconsider doing the Shelby/Arning drop while the suspension is apart. The car will absolutely be more poised and pleasant to drive after the change, regardless of any other mods you make. It’s how they should have come from the factory.
Not to derail, but most of the feedback I’ve heard on the earlier 'Stangs and Cougars ('65-'68) about rear swaybars has been negative. Guys with the '69+ seem to like them. Is it just because they got a little more ‘junk in the trunk’ with later years, and the early cars don’t benefit as much?
Any car will benefit from the addition of anti-roll bars.
I put a rear bar from a Lincoln MK IV in my 72 Montego wagon and it made a big difference.
I scored about 2 years ago a rear sway bar from a 70 that had the competition handling package and once I get the bodywork finished in the back and reinstall the rear end I`ll install that sway bar. So looking forward to it …
thanks
pat