Good Morning, been searching for a a thread here about synthetic oil. I’ve reached the stage of my build where it’s time for fluids. The guys at Advance were educating me on synthetic oil as I’m cautious about not using traditional 10w30 in any classic motor. My 351w is stock internals, best to my knowledge from 69. Advance doesn’t stock any traditional oil with zinc, but two of the guys I talk to regularly were explaining full synthetic is OK to run due to the positive nature of conditioners added to synthetic. I purchased Castro Edge full synthetic 10w30, 6 quarts, but before I change my oil, what do you experienced guys have to say? As well, 5qts including filter is the correct Capacity?
I put a zinc additive in mine regardless of what oil I run, synthetic or otherwise. The higher your valve spring rates the more it becomes necessary. I wouldn’t trust the first thing the guys at my Advance say. At least around here they just parrot what a rep tells them. I say use a zinc additive unless you’re running Red Line Brad Penn Royal Purple. Or you could just use rotella as it has all the zinc your flat tappet cam could desire.
I felt the same way, going to order valvoline vr1 10w30 from amazon prime, 6qts for $36 and returning the synthetic.
Check out Mobil 1 15w-50 synthetic, it was mentioned on a forum that it contains ZDDP???
I saw through another site http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=65068.0 that VR1 is good to use. 5th post of this site. Now, on other forums I’ve been yelled at for other brands. Hope we can all be big boys and focus on the information provided and not that it’s a Charger site lol. Just messing around.
You can also use any modern oil you like/can get and add this: http://www.kirbanperformance.com/products/20/ZDDPlus+OIL+ADDITIVE.html
I have a fair number of bottles left over from before I went to the full roller 408C. If you would like some, get in touch.
Regards,
Robert
Here’s a link with a chart showing zinc and phosphorous levels for different Mobil 1 Synthetics:Service Unavailable | ExxonMobil
For everyone’s information: the Brad Penn green motor oil with high ZDDP is being rebranded as Penn Grade High Performance. Still produced in the same factory in Bradford, PA and same green color. My local shop still has the old Brad Penn containers but expect the new containers soon.
My engine builder highly recommended Joe Gibbs Racing oil (now known as Driven), says it’s all he uses. I have their break-in oil still in my car and will probably use one of their 10w-30 options after the first 500 miles. They have both synthetic and conventional, all with high zinc content. Price looks to be around $10/qt., so not cheap, but no additives will be needed.
Here’s a link to the converntional 10w-30: http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/hr2-conventional-10w-224html/
And the synthetic: http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/hr4-synthetic-10w-227html
Both are Penn and Gibbs are good oils. If you’re looking for oil with high amounts of zinc and phosphate and not spend a small fortune on an oil change, the Shell Rotella is a VERY good conventional that is designed to protect industrial engines so it will hold up to the demands of our muscle cars. Harley Davidson oil is also Hugh in ZDDP, but priced like everything HD (in Harley circles stand for Hundred Dollars). The Penn Gibbs Redline, Royal Purple are ALL cheaper than Harley. At least with all of our suggestions you now have a MYRIAD of choices.
I have a 5 qt jug of Quaker State Defy synthetic blend oil that I bought a while back. I have not used it yet. It has “boosted zinc”. I can’t remember how much I paid for it. I think I will look into one of the oils you guys have mentioned above. I am about due for an oil change.
In my opinion synthetic oil is a waste of money, as it cost more than regular, and this is cars we use for our hobby we are talking about, then the cars get low milage during a year, and i do change my oil every year on my hobby cat, as that is the interval recommended, gets new oil every year when goin to storage, as it will be bad for the inside of the motor to sit stored half the year with used and contaminated oil in it.
And synthetis oils are designed to get high milage before changing it, so therefor in a hobby car it will be too expensive, as it most definately should be changed once a year, and with the milage we put on our hobby cars, some may get an oilchange every 5.th year or so, and that would be veery bad for the engine, as the oil gets contaminated when the engine is running, like condense, residue from fuels getting past the rings, and other contaminations too, witch makes an etching acid, witch in order will tear up the inside of the engine over time.
That is also why i do not start the engine and warm it up during hibernation, i find it more safe to take out the distributor, and prime the engine with a priming rod on the drill.
So i usemineral oil in my cat, change it every fall when i put it in hibernation, and the milage intevall is around 5000 miler per year
Edelbrock makes an oil additive for those old style cams.
I put it in conventional 10w40 or even 20w50 (during the summer) Castro GTX fro my 70 351W
Well I’m using 10w30 in winter here in TX valvaline racing oil with high zinc. Will change to 15w50 in summer with temps in the 100s same brand an wix filters.
Be Safe, Ralph
The link above has been updated. https://www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/media/project/wep/mobil/mobil-row-us-1/files/mobil-1-product-guide-rev-31.pdf is downloadable and shows zinc and phosphorus content for all their consumer grade synthetic oils.
Has anyone found similar charts from Shell, Chevron, Havoline, Valvoline, Quaker State, etc.?
Sure any brand of oil can be found online. Walmart sells Valvoline VR-1 in a variety of viscosity levels so no need to go anywhere else in my opinion.