tach removal

so this is my story. I have a 72xr7 got the car from a friend, we did an engine rebuild 10 years ago, when hooking up the engine wiring harness I could not get power to the coil in the run position, so we put a toggle switch in the car to power the coil. after reading and research I found someone talk about the power comes from the ignition to the tach to the coil. and I read to jump the tach. I was told the tach was working before the engine rebuild, my problem is I cant get the gauges out to jump the tach or see if it is already jumped, which it should not if the tach was working. im sure there are many other things I should haved checked first. thanks ahead for anyone who can help me. this car has been sitting for 6 years in a garage waiting for someone to fix it up and ride it on the weekends. love the car just need a little tlc

I guess I should have said, I have the wood grain panel out of the way,I have the 4 screw’s out holding the gauges in, I don’t have any slack to slide them out. Tried to get my hand under the dash maybe to disconnect them, not enough room, this is where I stopped last night, thinking maybe I should drop the column next. Spent 10 years as a parts changer in the army and know that doesn’t make anyone a mechanic, that’s why I’m looking for help here. Thanks again for any info. When I think back I probably dropped the column to replace the ignition switch, been awhile

IIRC the tach has its own plug/connector, then the main plug/connector for the IP, and then the spedometer cable. And yes its very close quarters behind the IP to plug or unplug those. I think it can be done without dropping the column but might give you more room if you did.

Thanks for the info, I did figure it out as far as remove the ip, I didn’t have to, in order to jump the tach I did it from under the dash. It still didn’t fix my no power to coil in run position. What I need is a wiring diagram for a 72 rx7 I have several items that don’t have power, witch I just found out

I have 72 factory shop manuals if you need. $50 plus shipping.

Im not sure of the difference between 72 and 73 but here is a link to WCCC’s free download of the electrical diagrams. http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/15320-Manual-Complete-Electrical-Schematic-Free-Download-1973-Mercury-Cougar.html

Steven

thanks steven for the link, not sure they are the same. I guess I should start a new thread and ask why I don’t I have power to the inside of the car. I have power to the ignition, the headlights work, no power to instrument panel, fuse box, no turn signals, stop lights, most of this probably can be fixed if I get power to the fuse box. my initial problem when I did the engine swap was no power to the coil in the run position, now im finding no power to most of the car

Sounds like the ACC power is not going anywhere, which originates in the ignition switch. If you have no voltage at the center two taps on the top of the fuse box (on either side of the center line), then either that line is broken somewhere in the harness or your ignition switch is not working. I’ve seen both conditions. For the first condition, usually the wire is broken right at the back of the fuse box.