Does anyone know what all I need to install the back glass other than the seal? Do I caulk the inside of the seal where the glass goes or just the lip on the car side? Thanks
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Since you did some rust repair around the rear window the first thing is to make sure that you have all the little studs in place that hold the moulding clips. I use the same urethane sealer that is sold for windshield sealant. Put some in the rubber gasket track that the glass goes in then install the glass. I then use the rope method to install the glass and gasket to the car. Once the gasket is seated I put more of the urethane between the metal lip of the car and the gasket.
Thanks randy! What actually holds the glass in place? The seal, the caulk, the window trim, or all of the above. Also do you put any sealant in the space between the car and the seal where the clips go?
The glass is held in by the rubber gasket which is then mounted in the car. Its just like the windshield. check out this video on a windshield install. The same will apply for the rear
Scored a hood! Ran up to Dallas and grabbed the hood and hinges for $240. Does anyone know the size and pitch bolts I need for the hinged to hood and hinges to body?
The bolt size for all of above is 5/16 course thread with flat washers, the hinge to hood uses a slightly larger washer, and be careful of the length of the bolts you use on the hood because if they are too long they can hit the hood on the under side and cause dimples on the outside.
The correct legal way will vary from state to state. You should contact your local authorities to find the correct answer for your location. Here in PA we are a title state so to legally send a vehicle to a salvage yard or a scrap metal recycler you need to have a legal title to the vehicle that you can turn over to the yard.
Also if the vehicle you purchased does not have a title and you can do what I did in FL. Before I scrapped a 70 I bought with a bill of sale I took a sawzaw to the entire car and chopped it up and scrapped it in pieces. When it came to the cowl where the VIN was I showed the scrapper the car was purchased for strictly parts. And 9 out of 10 times after you show them the bill of sale they waive it and take the scrap. We also sent a 1998 Malibu to the scrap yard as a running car. We too had a title and just signed the title over to the scrapping place.
thanks
pat
p.s. look in your local papers there are usually people in your area buying scrap/junk cars…
Here in Washigton state you can scrap a car with out a title if you have a State Patrol affidavit showing it was inspected and found not to be stolen. With a title is easy, just call up any of the scrapers in the paper or local Craigslist. But as stated earlier the process defers from state to state.
So after a long delay I’m back knocking out work on the Cougar. I fixed the rust near the drivers quarter window, and order a bunch of parts from WCCC to fix the actual quarter windows. I also pulled the trans and motor. The trans is salvageable but the motor is shot, cylinders would need a half inch overbore
Little update to the project. Things are hopefully going to move a lot faster soon.
I settled on a patina gulf racing theme. Tried my hand on the hood first and I like the outcome.
I spent a lot of time and fixed all the rust on the drivers quarter. I used a front fender for a patch for the lower part in front of the rear tire. I fixed the quarter window rust, drip rail, and upper quarter near the lead line.
I picked up a lower mileage stock roller 5.0
I also grabbed a top loader four speed
And finally I grabbed a parts car to get the doors and other misc parts off of. I’m super excited to hopefully have this running by Spring break.
Did you ever invest in a sheet metal finger break and/or an English wheel?
Those will save you the trouble of cutting up other vehicles. Yes, it’s just one car, but due to the extensive body work needed and the overwhelming odds of needing something that isn’t reproduced, those will be nice to have especially for the 2nd car & the 3 r d one &…
As far as the LS1, that’s confusing. Yes, it has decent heads and airflow but so does the 351 Cleveland or a boss 302 (yes they can be replicated)
It’s not even the most affordable GM engine. I’d do an LT1 Corvette engine if going that direction. Otherwise stay with Ford.
SVT engines will drop right in without motor mount issues. So will any variant of the 5.0 mustang, the Paxton supercharged engine we all probably grew up with in the 80s.
If I was going high dollar on a small block, I’d do either a 302 in aluminum block or else a 351 Cleveland.
I believe thunderhead 289 has a delightful vehicle known as the rotstang. The point is that a less then perfect vehicle can still be brought back from the dead.
Just picking up this thread, will watch your videos tonight !
Quite impressed with all the work you put into fixing the rust, did you start to get “feelings” for your cat ?? I thought you’d just roadkill the thing, shove an engine in it and let it disintegrate …
I thought you’d just roadkill the thing, shove an engine in it and let it disintegrate …