Just wanting to get some input on completing my a/c system in my S-code. It was robbed of most everything when I got it except the evaporator under the dash. The expansion valve was still attached. The service valves were in boxes of parts, but that’s about it. Over the years I acquired a Tecumseh compressor, and all the big block brackets and idlers. If I recall without looking through stacks of receipts I got them off ebay. They were pulled from a 67 Fairlane. The pump is really nice looking. Retains it’ black paint, and has various white stenciled factory letters/markings on it. I have the mounts and idlers all restored and ready to use, some installed. I had the evaporator pressure checked when I rebuilt my heater/ac box and prior to reinstalling. I purchased the new high performance condenser kit with dryer from WCC and have that installed.
Now I need to decide which way to turn. The compressor has been sitting around for years, and there is no real good way to check them out is there without installing it and see if it builds pressure? Classic Auto Air is saying 355.00 to rebuild, and they don’t do a concourse rebuild. They also have the replacement York compressor that fits in the same place and even uses the same clutch for 280.00.
Their hoses are not concourse, but I really don’t mind that. After researching and asking questions I think I pretty much gave up on doing the used hose thing. Nobody ever seemed to have a complete set, and then what kind of shape would they be in, and price vrs a repro set from CAA
So just wondering what input would be given my variables? Not starting from scratch, but not all the way there 
Good questions, and I’m in almost the exact same boat as you. So… I have no useful advice but I’ll be watching this thread. My original Tecumseh compressor also looks pretty decent and seems to spin fine but has been sitting on a shelf for years and I figure it might be wise to have it rebuilt / serviced before trying to use it, especially if I convert to r134. I do have my original hoses but I’m not sure if I should still use them, or get new ones. Like you, I pressure tested and kept the original evaporator, and have a new condenser & drier.
Has anyone done a DIY rebuild or service on one of these compressors? How do you know if it’s good or not?
Andy,
I asked CAA if they offer a kit for rebuild and they said no. That’s not to say one can’t be had somewhere. I have some familiarity with taking hydraulic pumps apart and knowing what’s good and bad by looks, so it may be doable for me. I think the only way to test is perhaps hook it up to a system and see if it builds pressure. The 280.00 for the York compressor from CCA looks possible too. You can paint it black (the will paint it for an 75.00 upcharge) and it doesn’t void warranty. It can run R12 or 134. You have to use I little different service valves, but can reuse clutch. I guess I bring up a new question for myself. After doing some additional research WCCC offers cores in both the Tecumseh and York. I have been calling and looking around and can find both in rebuilt. Mustangs Unlimited has a Tecumseh rebuilt but lists it for a 65/66 Stang. Would a early production Cougar like mine been more apt to have the cast iron unit? I actually have the early style vac canister as well that mounts inside under the hood hinge.
Don’t know if your goal is just to get a/c working, or keep it original as possible. But this kit is as cheap as you can do it for and its all new.https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-50-0020/overview/year/1970/make/ford/model/mustang
For what it’s worth…
I’ve owned my car since 1993 (289 (2V), C-4). When I bought it from some family friends, they could not recall when it last worked, though it was original and intact (except for the belt). After checking it out I realized the compressor was shot, so found another, put it on, charged it up, and was good to go for about 15 years or so. Eventually the hose from the compressor to the condenser failed and while that was being fixed, I did have the compressor replaced with a newly rebuilt one. At this time, the system was also converted to R134a… It still works, and all of the other hoses and parts, other than the receiver/dryer (as I recall) are still original, including the remaining hoses. It’s not quite as cold as it was when it ran with R12, but here in the San Francisco Bay Area, it gets the job done just fine.
I really like my car to look original (and would definitely describe it as more of a survivor than restored), so wanted to keep as much of the original parts as possible. In the 26 years I’ve had it, the AC hasn’t really cost me much to maintain at all, and I do make a point to run it regularly, even briefly in the winter time each couple of weeks when I take the car out for some exercise.
Canted,
My goal is to keep it for the most part original looking, but not concourse. Still though I would maybe consider the Summit kit if I didn’t already have the condenser and dryer that I bought from WCCC.
Dennis, I like your thinking 
So when your saying
Just went out and looked, so I thought I would add that the Tecumseh compressor I have has a number on it of C7AA2875-A1 model HG1000 So would that be a pump that’s not produced until 1967, or produced in 66 and into 67 for a 67 model year?
C7AA means it first came out for use on a 1967 or was modified from an older version for 1967. These compressors were used into the 70s. When I’ve had to replace a compressor I would get a rebuilt York, 10 lbs less and the aluminum dissipates heat better. NAPA offers a gasket rebuilt kit but it won’t fix a worn out piston or valves. I always use FR-12 (online) it cools better then R-12 and you don’t need a license to use it. It uses the same mineral oil as R-12.
I found where that similar number comes up. WCC has it stated on their web page for core compressors. I also found it on a Mustang page for being used on Shelbys only it ends in A2. Must be some chart/literature somewhere on part numbers?
Did a lot of reading on here to on different posts looking for advice/ideas. Many times it’s either a retro kit that’s been gone with or if it is just pump it is a York as they are much more available, and lighter.
Looked at the pump I have here several times. Is it possible for a pump not to have a oil check/fill plug. I don’t see anything on this one like in some of the other posting pics I’ve seen and read about.
Summit sells just the compressor. I too had the Tecumseh original and found this. However when it arrived it was the York style but still mounted up perfectly and it was already painted black. Like you I wanted it to look more stock.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fss-58061/overview/year/1966/make/ford/model/mustang
May just go the York route. OReillys has a reman York pump for 165.00 with a 25 dollar Memorial day coupon. That be cheap. I’ve run into it in the past though that you get one quality of part from the parts stores, and a different quality from vendors selling less volume. Any reason not to buy the parts store pump? They say they come precharged with oil for R134, or 1234yf systems. They also say they come with required O-rings to install for R12/134/and 1234yf. So being that they say the precharge oil isn’t for R12 does that mean I would have to swap it out?
I read in some past posts that someone always liked to use the FR12 refrigerant because it worked better in older systems, and you didn’t need certification to buy. I clicked on the link in the post, and as of the 1st of 2018 you do need to be certified.
Still would like to know what my pump is directly for. I found the copy of the ebay listing I printed off from when I bought it back in 2006. It was advertised as 390,428 AC Brackets, pulleys, compressor. I bought it for 87.00 from a guy by the name of Bob Dolan. Diggin through that file is fun. I have receipts back to 1994 when I started this adventure 
David:
Yes, the first one I put on in 1993 was off a '71 Monterey. As I recall, we changed the oil in it, installed it, and charged the system after pressure testing it. The second time, I did put a new one on, as the first replacement was just getting a bit noisy (after about 35 years!). I don’t think you really have much to lose if you just try it, and I would definitely recommend changing the oil in it and pressure testing the system first.
I can’t exactly when they started using them but it must have been around '64 or so up to the mid-'70s. My '73 Marquis has one but I recall my grandparent’s '76 Grand Marquis had the newer rotary (GM) style pump, as did a '76 LTD Landau I had in college. Interestingly, now that I think about it, my '77 Bobcat V-6 wagon had a York style compressor. So I think it wouldn’t be too hard to find one.
Who has the best set of reproduction hoses, or are the ones that the different vendors carry pretty much from the same manufacturer?
I am thinking of trying to use the pump I have, and seeing if the system will pressure check. I am considering at least changing the shaft seal though because they are readily available, easy to change, and a common part to get dry and leak. However, there has been much talk and I have read info of changing the oil. I don’t see anything on this pump that looks like a place to even put oil in it, let alone check it. The pump numbers are in post #7. I have found that same number for a 1967 in posts on Mustang forums only ending in an A2 which it was said made it correct for a Shelby.
Check out Original Air Group, they should have everything, whether stock replacement or upgrade. Here’s the stock replacement hoses. My thinking on this has changed somewhat, and as much as I like things looking original, I do like the idea of things working more efficiently, a lighter and less bulky compressor, and converting to r134 for easier servicing in the future. Plus I’m not sure if I trust the 50 year old compressor or my old crusty hoses. So I think I’m gonna do this upgrade kit since I already have everything else. I guess if I want to get fancy I could try to paint the new compressor black, but probably won’t worry about it.
I ran across a couple old pics of Jeff B’s 1970 engine bay with the new style compressor and it doesn’t look bad at all IMO.
I’ve already strayed away from total originality by doing the electric headlight motors, so I guess I’m not too worried about concours at this point.
Classic Auto Air has a great kit & has options for R12 & 134A. Looks just like Jeff’s & works very well!!
Yep, Original Air Group is a division of Classic Auto Air, I should have mentioned that.
Classic Auto Air is what I used for all the underhood components when converting my factory A/C car to modern 134A. I’ve never had a problem with it since I charged the system about 8 years ago. It will freeze you out of the car in 100 degree weather and the compressor is smooth and quiet. I have zero regrets.
Jeff,
That’s a nice looking car there! Kinda hard to believe you went ahead and got the air working with after market stuff. The rest of the car looks like a “trailer queen”
My only concern with converting is the evaporator. I had it pressure checked at a local radiator shop before I stuck it under the dash, but didn’t have a flush job done on it. So I am sure it has some residual R-12 oil in it. Is there a way to flush it prior to hooking everything back up. Leaning towards going with a rebuilt York compressor in black, and I will just have to core my original Tecumseh. I would try to use the Tecumseh, but from what I read about converting to R134 you need to change out the compressor oil. This compressor has no check plugs that I can see so I don’t know about changing the oil in it.
Thanks for the compliment but this car is no trailer queen. It’s got nearly 25K miles on it since I finished the restoration. I initially went with the CAA evaporator but it had a defect from the factory so I had to pull it out and decided to go with the original evaporator after testing and flushing. Mine was done while outside the car but you can probably flush it while it’s still in the car. As for the compressor, you can use the original compressor but if you want maximum efficiency and lowest drag, I’d go with the modern Sanden compressor. I’ve never questioned my decision when it’s 100 degrees out after a long day in the sun and I get in my car and it freezes me out within minutes.