If i am at TDC compression, will the harmonic balancer, be lined up on the pointer at O deg? Reason for my question, after getting the car running, my brother and I tried to time it. It seem to run okay, but the marks are not lining up. It seem to run best when the marks are before the pointer.
Yes, within a degree or so if the balancer ring has not slipped on the frame. People say that happens quite often, but I’ve never had one that did. Trying to run an engine at 0* BTDC is not recommended; factory usually has 6* or so BTDC. Some engines run best at 12-16*, but best to check for pinging/detonation before running it at that setting for good.
Another factor that may alter your reading while running is the effect of manifold vacuum on the vacuum advance. Manifold vacuum adds to the timing at idle whereas ported vacuum does not. When you check the timing, you should disable your vacuum advance canister lines.
If the distributor was off a tooth, would that account for the marks being off? Vacuum advance was plugged.
On the distributor and a tooth, no.
Hollow out a spark plug, tap for 3/8" fine thread. Round off the end of a 3/8" fine bolt to go into the spark plug shell. This is a stop to be used for the #1 piston (turn the engine over by hand). Put masking tape on the balancer. Turn the bolt in to a point where the piston will stop against it. Mark this on the masking tape at the pointer. Turn the engine (again, by hand) in the opposite direction until the piston stops against it again. Mark this on the masking tape as well. Measure the distance between the marks and divide by two. This is true TDC. If it does not match the balancer TDC mark (0 degrees), your balancer has slipped and needs to be replaced. It is a common problem in spite of what some may say. To increase accuracy, have the bolt turned in the minimum amount to cause a piston stop. The smaller the distance on the masking tape to divide by two, the more accurate your result.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Robert
Thanks Robert, but as a beginner, with basic hand tools and limited knowledge, I don’t think that is in my skill set. Sounds easy enough though. I will be messing with it this weekend.
A couple of things.
- The tool Robert is talking about making is readily available through most parts stores and Summit racing :
- When you say it is off of 0 a bit when it runs best, that is what is expected. As TCELL said they tend to run best in that 6-12 before top dead center (BTDC) so the zero will be off of the pointer. If you look at the balancer it should be marked with various degrees on it, highlight the 6 or the 8 or something as well as the 0 and then time it using that. You should use a timing light or your ear for fine tuning. Static setting it by pointing the distributor at the #1 cylinder with the balancer near 0 will get it running but not necessarily where you want/expect it to be.
Also set your points if you’re still running those before finalizing the timing.
Over the years the balancer “pointer” on the timing cover has moved around. Not sure if you have all matching year balancer and timing cover. The best thing to do is to find mechanical TDC with the #1 spark plug out and verifying the “0 DEG” position on the balancer. If it is correct, then set the timing. Otherwise you can use paint markers and indicate the actual TDC on the balancer first before setting timing. An “advance” timing light is useful if you don’t already have one.
Worked on the car today, installed new points and condenser, fired it up and set the timing. Timing marks are lining up now. So, its running pretty good and idling. We turn it off and the car makes a slight dieseling sound. Start it back up and adjust the dizzy, turn it off no diesel. Lets take it for a spin. turn the key engine cranks, no start. I could not get the car started. I am not getting any spark. This car is so frustrating. Coil is not producing any spark. Bought a replacement coil, still no spark. Where should I look next? 
Check your dizzy grounds, points ground, wires are all in good shape (not spliced, not pinched, not hacked). Bad starter solenoid not putting voltage to I post, etc. You need a good DVM to start chasing down why you have no voltage where you should have voltage.
Okay, figured it out. Points had closed, and were not opening. Reset the points gap, and the car fired back up. Yay!
How’s your idle ? This can cause dieseling after shut off as well if it is set too high.