I am getting ready to rebuild a C4 from a 67 Coupe with a 289. I have purchased all the rebuild parts from bulkpart.com but am looking at a torque converter now, and have a few questions. The site I am on is:
http://www.chrismantorqueconverters.com … pline.html
And I am pretty certain that my options need to be:
model year: 67
ford model: cougar
engine: 289
bolt circle: small pattern?
Connection Bolts: 4-Bolt?
Its the last 2 I am uncertain about.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Robert
The bolt circle diameter is 10.5" with 4 studs.
Thanks, I ended up ordering one of their street/strip torque converts with a 2000-2600 stall in anticipation for the future engine.
$206.27, shipping included. That’s the best deal I have found anywhere so far for a non stock unit.
So, I am into a complete transmission for:
Trans + shipping: $225
Rebuild Parts and shift kit: $227
4 Hour Rebuild DVD: $36 from badshoe productions. I highly recommend his DVD’s.
Torque converter: $206.00
So that’s $694.00 totaled up, and it will have a full rebuild, including bushings, hi performance bands, clutches, and a shift kit in it when it is done.
Just have to reuse my bellhousing.
What are your goals for your Cougar? What are you planning on doing to your engine? Don’t go too crazy with a budget torque converter.
I bought a B&M Holeshot 2400 back in 1998 when I put in my engine. Within a month of driving the car, I lost 2nd gear. When I took it in to get my transmission rebuilt, they said the impellers in the torque converter were rubbing on each other. I would be careful.
The goal at the moment is to get it on the road. Later on down the line will be a crate engine that the torque converter will be a better match for than the standard 289 4 barrel.
I am going to rebuild it myself, so hopefully I only have to do it once. I am becoming a pro at pulling that transmission. I rebuilt the original already, but the one section someone else helped with, the pump, is leaking down the outside of the bell housing. So, I am going to build this spare up so I can just swap it out in one day, and if I break it later down the line, I still have my original one the car came with.
One thing to keep in mind… If you have a 2.79 rear axle ratio, the torque converter will not lock up fully until the engine is above the stall speed. This means that you will have torque converter slip any time the engine is below 2600 RPM. During slip, the torque converter makes a great deal of heat. I would recommend an external transmission cooler to offset the additional heat. I discovered this issue on one of my cars with a similar torque converter, only this situation was even worse since I had an AOD in the car. If you have a higher axle ratio, like a 3.25 or higher then the problem is greatly reduced.
Thanks for the tip.
I have 3:1 gears in the car right now.
I was going to find some of these port adapters like these:
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/trans.html
but made of steel.
The guy on that says he couldn’t find them anywhere, but I have plenty of tube fitting catalogs at work with those in them.
I can also make hydraulic hoses at work, so I plan to get rid of my hard lines and plumb in hoses to the trans and to the external cooler to alleviate the cursing factor of trying to fish the hard lines in and around everything when working on the trans.
When I orderd one for my GTE I went with 500rpm over stock because of the slightly stiffer cam I had installed. This might be something to consider if you plan on alot of street driving.
I have used braided lines and I took them off and went back to hard lines. This doesn’t mean that you should do the same, it is just what I did, and I have to second the idea that getting to those lines is a pain in the butt. I ended up buying a set of shorty wrenches to do the job.
Here is what I experienced: The hard lines are self supporting. I ended up have to make some brackets to hold the braided lines and also using zip ties. I still didn’t look all that good. Then I noticed the braided lines were picking all kinds of oil and grime that was coming off the roads when I drove the car. The hard lines are self supporting, small in size, and tucked away pretty well. I left one line connected to the radiator, and then ran the output to the cooler and then back down from the cooler to the second hard line. I put a 90 degree bend in the hard line at the radiator so the the input and output lines ran right next to each other to the cooler. I bought adapters to go from the hardline to a hose barb, and ended up using rubber hose up to the cooler.
I am planning on normal rubber covered hydraulic hose. If it’s rated to 5000 psi, I hope it will last a while on the C4.