unbelievable

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You will not believe this. :wall:

The gods have given me 2 seats in exchange for one fuel tank.

I was looking through the shop manual. It suggested looking at the check valve if the headlight doors don’t work when the engine is off.

Basically, if the headlight vacuum motors are bad, they’ll be bad whether the engine is running or not.

Jeg’s has a fuel tank for $99. They have 2 possible sending units, one with a brass float, other plastic.

Any opinions? :nerd:

I realized that if I pull the car into the garage forwards instead of backwards, I will have a little bit more room. This means it’s easier to get under the car.

Glad you figured out what was wrong with your seats :slight_smile:

Headlight doors… definitely make sure your check valve is in working order. That’s an easy test.

No opinion on the sending unit ~ I’m sure both float types have their pros / cons.

Are check valves available new or rebuilt?

I was looking in my 1968 repair manual and they said test the area at D in the diagram.

I recall seeing check valve right by it. Actually, it can’t be the vacuum motors because they work just fine with the engine running. If they were bad, they’d always be that way.

If I’m really lucky fixing that might help out the rest of the vacuum system.

The manual says that the doors are supposed to work after the engine stops running. I thought they cut out as a safety feature!!

I still can’t locate that bypass valve you can use to just keep them open all the time… if it still exists.

I just went to WCCC and got one. There’s is a major upgrade over the OEM unit.

The tilt away wheel works however.

I was joking about reinflating the fuel tank. It turn out that YouTube has a video of this guy doing just that for his tractor trailer.

Now if there was a tool like a gas cap with an automotive tire valve in the center, that would be awesome.

I’m sure that one could take off the fuel filler tube and go to a plumbing supply store to get a hose and cap of some kind & then put a tire valve in it.

Be careful trying to re-inflate the tank. They split along the seam very easily. I’d give it a try. You probably need a new tank, but if it works you save a few bucks.

It doesn’t fit. When I removed the cap to fill up with gas, a huge rush of air escaped!!

It’s NOT vented, totally sure.

If I disconnected the fuel line from the tank to the pump & tightened the cap, I could, in theory, simply apply very gentle pressure to the tank.

If I just could get 2psi, maybe 3, I would be good.

The fuel gauge also now moves in one third of it’s range & the tank holds more.

If I can inflate it, it’ll probably work again.

Exactly right. You have a good working gas cap if that happened. It allows air to enter the tank. It does not allow air or fuel vapors to escape.