If there’s one thing I’ve learned after wasting over a thousand dollars on many types of window crank switches, DON’T.
I’ve used Nu-Relics and others. I’ve replaced motors, added relays, reworked switches, used multiple gauges of wire and nothing has upheld over 5 to 6 uses.
Going back to manual but I’ve tossed my old regulators and glass mounts. Yay, another ghost hunt.
When I’m done with this car, I’m hunting Sasquatch.
If there is one lesson I’ve learned from my years owning classic cars (and much to the chagrin of my wife), it is don’t ever throw anything away.
I sure wish there was a far better and easy update to the power sunroof switch!
- Phillip
Thank you for releasing that common sense on me. I suppose some day something might stick, light a light from above. Till then, I’ll probably keep charging like Custer’s Last Stand. For an alternative to sunroof switch, perhaps it works fine for the year of the car.
You’re not the first one… I’m parting out a 69 convertible that HAD power windows and was converted to manual. All the harnesses were cut at the switches. I can only assume that was done after a slew of obscenities, and the determination to never suffer the maintenance and repair of the system ever again…
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The main issue with electrical problems is that people attempt to fix things by throwing parts at the problem. This is because you can’t tell what the problem really is by looking at it. You have to have some knowledge of how electrical things work and then apply the theory and do some actual trouble shooting. But finding good information that is written in a way that you don’t have to be an engineer to understand it is difficult. Tony Candela spent years teaching car stereo installers how to understand the problems they encountered, and then to fix things the first time. He wrote an excellent book that has helped many car guys develop the basic knowledge they need to stop guessing, and to start fixing (or even creating!) electrical problems.
https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Wiring-Electrical-Systems-Workbench/dp/1932494871
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Perhaps using the switch to operate a pair of relays?
I appreciate that. I am using two relays, the switches just give out. It’s like they are adequate for signal up to 9 volts, but burn up for the advertised use. I’m done with trying to convert to power windows. Cranks are great.
That’s actually pretty hilarious, after going through what I’ve been through with this, I can literally see the action unfolding for those folks, all those expectations, ahhh, that’s refreshing. Ha. Thx
I’m typically ok with aftermarket stuff but I have yet to see a decent aftermarket power lock/power window setup over the years. I will gladly crank a window rather then deal with the crappy aftermarket setups
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I’m not an Amazon patron…plus the book is cheaper on ebay. Despite working with automotive electrical on a daily basis, this auto electrical book will be added to my library. It only take one useful tip to make it worth the purchase price.
Speaking of things electrical, here is a book that many would find useful…I certainly did.
I have seen three types of switch failures. Mechanical failure where the plastic insulating parts break, usually at a pivot point. Over current failures where the contacts overheat and plastic parts melt or where the connections are inadequate and they melt the housing. Over voltage failures where there is arcing across the contacts. This is most common when the lubricant in the switch has congealed to the degree that the movement of the contacts is impaired.
Vic of CougarsUnlimited has much greater knowledge of these devices so maybe he will share his experience. Once we know the nature of the failure we can develop a solution
The issues stem from the switches themselves, as both (Auto -Loc, and Nu-Relics) are housed in billet aluminum. They both fail at direct current, negative switch load, relayed current, positive load, and negative. The crank switch by itself is a great concept and very awesome idea, but until there is a better design of the switches themselves, failure occurs at small usage amounts. Motors are fine. Truth is, I don’t know how to make them hold up for normal use. I wish they did, because I have well over a gnote in extra switches, motors, ect.
Since the money is spent maybe you could send me a pair and I can see what is going on and maybe come up with an idea for fixing it. No charge just my curiosity at work. I have been developing 12 volt products for years and this seems like a reasonable application
What about utilizing a factory Ford or GM switch, may need to make a custom housing to hold them but they should hold up better overall.
Sorry, my only experience with window switches is the factory-style switches. As Bill mentioned the contacts are the weak point because they arc and carbon builds up to where the current can’t pass through them. The contacts were probably not made with the silver-tin oxide coating used on modern relays/switches.
It would be better to use the switch to control solid-state (MOSFET) transistors in an H-bridge configuration. But that will require rewiring the switch panel so that a separate H-bridge controls each motor.
I suspect that is the way it is done in modern cars (except that the CAN bus is used to tell the window controller module to move up/down).
I’m using the same ones that Bill Pratt used for Catvert, but mounting them in the stock position. Not in the car yet but have bench tested OK
I bought Tony’s book…ah-ha!, thinking outside the box I see a couple reasons you recommend it…
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