Okay so I find myself in a quandary. What I believe were the original springs for my '68 XR-7 302 2V 4 speed with AC and PS PDB are now much too stiff. The car sits like the springs are not compressed at all. Maybe 5 or 6 inches too high.
I know much of this is self inflicted. I have replaced the stock heads and intake manifold with aluminum. The exhaust manifolds are much lighter HiPo units. The AC compressor is the lighter Sanden type. So I have removed considerable weight from the front of the car, much of that weight actually forward of the springs. But there could be another factor. This car has been off the road for about 40 years. And I believe the engine and transmission has been out of it for at least the last ten years. So the springs have not seen any weight for a very long time.
For further consideration I put a set of Global West tubular uppper control arms on it and also did the Shelby drop. So we are a long way from stock. So, as with any restomod, stock specifications are out the window.
So I find myself doing what is my least favorite job. Swapping out springs.
Currently I am using the Ebay spring compressor where you remove the shock, bolt the compressor base to the spring saddle and then tighten a nut above the upper shock mount to compress the spring. Then you unbolt the spring saddle from the upper arm to release the spring and then try to get the spring to come out into the wheel well as you unwind the compressor. I release the sway bar to allow the suspension to drop as far as possible. But it is still an incredible bitch to get everything in place and to compress the spring high enough to put the bolts back through the upper control arm.
So I got the eBay spring compressor thinking it would be safer. The bearing hopped off the race and it jammed the entire thing. I ended up torching the coils like you see on TV to get the spring and compressor out. Not a fan.
Using a jack to compress the suspension allows you to grab the spring in a already compressed state. Huge time saver. Compressing more and then relaxing the suspension/jack gives you way more room for removal.
I have used the more modern outside spring compressors with good results. It’s two compressors so perhaps some safety in redundance. Also used the single inside. Never had a unit fail but I just borrow them from local auto parts stores. I’d say those tools are robust given they are rentals.
I used the internal style with two cross bars and staggered hooks. You have to remove shock bracket to use. I found puttig a hose clamp next to the upper and lower hook would keep the cross bars from turning when loaded. Just about the time you pull the spring out of th pocket , you would bang it and an occlation in the spring would occur and the cross bars would unwind. The good thing about this type , you can usually cut the coil with a radiac wheel and reinstall with the compressor still on
I release the sway bar so it is not fighting me. I also use a jack to preload before using the compressor. After thinking it over for a while I think my difficulty is the spring saddle center being frozen in the rubber bushing. I suspect that roller bearing saddles would make this much easier.
I also put a large pry bar on top of the upper arm under the spring saddle to create a ramp for it to slide down and out of the car.
After hooking my spring compressor on the spring I installed a 11 inch long piece of one by two on inside of it to keep it centered, well, one o each side of the spring compressor : it came out pretty simple, but you really must compress it to about 10 inches to get it back in
That is what I want. Any idea how to locate one? I have been searching eBay with no success but I really don’t know what to search with I have T63P-5310-A and Tool 4201-C as part numbers
Your car could rust away to dust before you’d find another factory spring compressor…and it could be beat to snot!!! I don’t believe that the one illustrated above would save you much if any time… OR…you could…
Simply buy one of the KD? 4 hook versions and quit pissing around! I think I bought mine 40 years ago, for about $50, back when NCCC was doing “tech sessions” replacing worn front end components on members cats, and have used it numerous times since on my own. Still holding up strong and in fantastic shape, but used far less than a dealership tool!
I think they are still only about $50… Money WELL SPENT for ease of use and safety reasons!
This is one tool I wouldn’t cheap out on. A compressed spring IS a dangerous item.
Even if you only use it twice (two springs!) you’ve already saved money over having a shop do the job!!! Use the rest of your savings for factory shop manuals…!
PS: If you do manage to locate a factory spring compressor, you can still buy it for your collection, but I’d hang it on the wall with the other tools you never seemed to use, to hold the garage down! There are other tools that make better cents…
I’ve used this one - no issues. Worked well. Just keep the long threaded rod well greased. I didn’t feel unsafe using it.
One the page that I’ve linked, the prices range from 59 to 70 dollars.
Don’t blame you for your concern…pulling springs is like playing with a loaded cannon.
I’ve tried several techniques…some work better than others. Finally laid out the cash for the purpose built spring compressor for the upper A frame suspension. No arms or plates to suddenly slip (that’ll get your attention) no fitment issues…I’ve used it a bunch of times now and it just works and takes the worry out of it all.
I know it’s not cheap…neither are your fingers.
I have the Snap-On version of the finger and fork style that sfhess shows above. I’ve been using this unit for 30 years since I bought it used off a retiring mechanic. Prior to that I used the four finger style with (limited) success. Autozone has the OEM Tools version for “rent”
As far as technique, I’ll install the upper arm blocking tool I made, jack the car, remove the shock and install the compressor. Compress the spring enough to get it off the seat of the saddle, support the lower arm, remove the blocking tool, remove the upper arm shaft nuts, then swing the upper arm out of the way. You now have plenty of room to remove the spring or trim as needed.
The good book (factory shop manual) tells us to remove the two bolts holding the upper control arm and to swing it out of the way. I had thought this was one of those things that sounds easy but turns out very difficult. (see the part where you have to pull the engine to access the nuts)
I’ve done it many times with FE engines in place. I guess it would be easier with the engine out of the car but my customers often need that done with the engine in place.
That’s the style I’ve always used regardless of make or model. On Cougars I’ve had the best luck flipping it upside down so the threads protrude out the shock tower in the engine bay as opposed to jambing up into the spring perch. My springs are short and I can compress them enough with just an open-end wrench to get them out.
