Summit sells Wilwood disk brake kits for my 69 XR7, anyone have any thoughts or have used them.
Wilwood has dozens of versions. They key is selecting one to match your intentions and application. Just having installed the classic dynalite version on my 68 I’m very happy with them, works well with the stock master and rear drums. Way better then the Granada setup I had on there
+1 on wilwood kits.
Willwood Discs all the way around on my 67. Worth every penny.
I did the cheap Wilwood manual disc kit, and I practically had to stand on the pedal to stop the car. Definitely spring for the booster.
I did Wilwood Dynalite on the front with drum rears, disc/drum master cylinder and bendix booster. Very happy with the results.
Same issue, did the SSBC conversion front and back. Even with brake booster, have to stand on the pedal. Changed m/c and brake booster multiple times, different bores etc, new prop valve, do dice. Dissappointed to say the least.
Guys with the hard pedals, something must not be happy playing nice together and causing your issue. Maybe its a mismatch of master cylinder to caliper size? Maybe a concern with a prop valve setting or missing residue valve for the rear circuit? manual vs power pedal?
I have had no issues with a hard pedal or excessive stopping effort after my wilwood install, took a little bit to dial in the prop valve but that was more of getting the front to rear bias right and shouldn’t effect pedal effort. Might need to take a second look at your setup to make sure it all matched up correctly.
Thanks Diesel.
After reading your post I went back through the installation procedures for the SSBC kit. Someone told me that if I converted to 4 wheel disc, I didn’t need a proportioning valve as that was done by the brake junction box, so I never installed it. However, the instructions say to put it between the line after the junction box to the rear brakes. Going to do that this weekend.
Let us know the results. You certainly should have a prop valve so you can adjust the balance from front to rear. It should not have much of an effect on pedal feel but it will change how the car brakes overall. The goal is to not have the rear lock up before the front do you typically crank it all the way up and test. Back it off until the rear doesn’t lock on a hard stop.
My 68 was a drum car originally and I used the original distribution block which only has the warning light switch in it and not a proportional valve like the disc distribution block has. If your car was a disc car originally you should have a factory proportional valve on the block but it’s not adjustable and setup for disc front and drum rear. With discs on both ends you will want an adjustable one.
I have a wilwood prop valve installed between the master and block, location isn’t super important here as long is it’s installed. The residue valve is in the master and should be about 10psi to keep the rear shoes from backing too far off the drum. I do believe a a disc/disc setup uses a lower psi residue valve, 2psi comes to mind but not positive, the master may or may not have one so may be something to check for if your still having issues.
Thanks buddy, my problem is none of the wheels lock up at all. Not what i was expecting!
Sounds like the master cylinder actuating rod is adjusted too short. Pull the master cylinder away from the booster and the rod should stick out just less than 1". The acorn nut on the end is how you adjust the length. Even if you are close I would still adjust it out just a bit and see if you get results.
Bill makes a good point checking the rod too.
Another way to check this is using a brake fluid pressure gauge on the bleeder. This way you can see the pressure at the caliper. This would help with setting the bias as well. This kit comes with metric adaptors too which some aftermarket and replacement parts are using now. I found my replacement wheel cylinders needed up with metric bleeders rather then standard so that can be rather annoying if your not prepared for it.