Win some, lose some

Cougar Community
1

Several things:

  1. What is the process to remove window trim from door glass without damaging the trim pieces? Trim pieces will be going on new tinted glass.
  2. This was a brainiac move, and hopefully relatively easy to fix. In working with the taillights, I got the glue removed from the housings, and since the housings need a fresh coat of paint, why not just chuck them in the dishwasher. Wrong move. Oh, they’re clean alright, but most of the chrome plating is gone. Is there a product to put the chrome plating back on? I have an idea, but looking for a better solution before I tackle my idea. My idea is to very carefully form Aluminum foil to the contour, mask off the light socket holes, the spray PL 77 adhesive to hold everything in place, trim the holes, etc.

Thanks
Ron

2

What year Cougar? I found a local plating shop that could rechrome my tailight grills, but it was no cheaper than just replacing them with a nicer set without pitting from WCCC.

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  1. Mine are not pitted. Was cleaning them up to repaint the black areas.
    Bone head move on my part.
    I’m in Wisconsin, NW of Milwaukee.
    Thanks
    Ron
4

I feel your pain. But at least it’s just a bolt-on part that is easily replaced. And if not pitted, your old pair should still have decent core value since they can be replated.

5

I’m sure you have to worry about dried on food with that detergent!

6

:rofl::+1:
If there had food there, I wish to have back story!

7

For the taillight pieces it sounds like you are talking about the backer sections and not the face bezels. If that is correct then all you need to do is to pop the taillight sockets out, they just press into place. the silver reflective area was not chrome plated originally, it was painted. All you need to do is to repaint the silver. Many different products have been used over the years. I would look for a reflective silver color.

Randy Goodling
CCOA #95

8

Randy,
Thanks for the reply. I should have more clear. Yes, it’s the backer piece that everything attaches to that makes up the taillight assembly. Makes me feel a little better that it’s just paint that was washed off. At least they are clean & ready for paint.
I’m going to try a product called Alclad II. Lacquer based, prime with their black primer, then apply the Chrome. Looks like I’ll be breaking out my airbrush…
Best
Ron

9

I used Rust-oleum Mirror Effect Spray Paint and it worked better than chrome paint.

10

Thanks
I’ll take a look at it.
Ron

11

Don’t overthink this. It’s basically just silver paint. What really makes a difference is switching to the LED bulbs sold by WCCC. The difference is amazing and it is a huge improvement in safety

12

I have the LED’s for install.
Thanks!
Ron

13

I actually painted those reflector areas gloss white, which makes the taillights look more “red” especially when the lights are off. White is brighter than silver, so it kinda makes sense. Just an alternative idea to throw into the mix.

2 Likes
14

I did the same thing. Every fluorescent light fixture I’ve seen gave me the idea to paint them gloss white.

15

I followed Andrew’s advice and when restoring painted these areas gloss white and WOW! They add so much to the red. Very worthwhile.

16

I would test the lacquer based paint on an unimportant spot first. I’ve seen lacquer blister plastic.

As an alternative, enamel paint is less volatile, less likely to damage the plastic. Also test that before doing the whole piece.

17

I used Tamiya white for the first coat, then used Rust Oleum gloss white in several thin coats. The last coat on one housing crazed slightly. The crazing will not be noticeable behind the lens and bezel, +, the LED’s “bulbs” will be quite bright.
If it lasts another 47 years, it will far outlast me!
Thanks for the comments from all.
Ron