OK this thread has been around for a long time and yet every time the title pops up on the new posts list if I don’t look right at it my mind reads it as Wow, beat up cloth and vinyl…
I thought the 71 351C used an aluminum engine ID tag bolted under the coil bracket? If I’m not mistaken, the valve cover decal was 72 and up. On my 71 4V, there was a yellow OK paint stamp on the front of the passenger valve cover.
This is what Ford calls the Quiet Tone muffler. My 71 351V and my 72 Q code both had these mufflers as part of the factory dual exhaust system. Is your car a July '70 Build or a July '71 build? If the latter, that is late in the model year, and it’s possible you got a part destined for '72 Build.
The paper with clear overlay, id decal/sticker was in use before 1964 and continued through the years as a quick easy to see identification for workers in addition to the small, harder to read and find at time) one that was used also. Moved to a valve cover at the start of 1967 production and applied at the engine plant.
The OK stamp was part of the inspection/ready to ship process. There are a bunch of different versions depending on what plant the engine was built at and what time period
You can make your own if there is an original that could be read - for the small details. Some of the information can be taken from the aluminum tags. Have made them for show cars when the owner had a car that there were no reproductions were available or if the builder wanted a sticker that was like the originals rather than the reproduction decals made today. Out of vinyl/plastic material
A little update, I have most of the accessories added to the engine now.
I decided not to use the 4 blade cooling fan that was originally on this, but will save it. I also decided to do a dual exhaust. Factory style parts of course. It was missing the dual diaphragm advance and assorted hardware when I got it, I am for now going to stay that way. It will be easy to add it later if wanted. I am thinking about electronic ignition but have not committed to it yet.
I will also have to repaint the air cleaner as it is not the same color as the engine.
I hope it will be warmer in the shop as I get going on the engine compartment restoration and brake job.
I have been getting the underside cleaned up for the new gas tank and exhaust. I got a lot of work done. I found some surface rust on the underside above the old exhaust tail pipe. And in a few other areas not real bad but I am working it and encapsulating it with Eastwood Rust encapsulater, This is what it liked like after I removed the center bar to the old hitch and the tank.
You can still se the 2 cross bars from the old hitch and the tail pipe. I had thought the full exhaust was original. But after removing it from the car I can see the tail pipe was replaced at one time. I also could see a lot of soot above the back end of the muffler.
I here have the 2 cross bars removed and a lot of cleaning done. I am removing all the old undercoating. It is dried out and starting to fail. I have about 75% of it removes so far and have not found any problems.
[/url]
As it is now. After I get the rest of the undercoating off I will be cleaning and painting the rest of the underside. Then start installing parts.
This wheel house looks better now. I am planning to only refinish the outer wheel house. The paint has failed and has surface rust. I plan to keep the pin striping that got mistakenly painted on some of the wheel wheal trims. As seen here. I have been documenting all the factory markings I find and as I refinish things I will duplicate them.
Here is a Yellow 15 on the axle housing and a Green paint stripe on the shock that corresponds to the build sheet.
And here is what looks like a D on the housing and the Green stripe on teh shock.
Had to look under the 428 to see what it was like. Now I’m covered in rust flakes, red dust, chunks of old sound deadener and small flakes of black paint that want to invade every available orrifice
What did you use to get the crud off? Lying on my back with drill and wire brush is taking forever
Leon,
I started with a paint scraper to get any thing loos off. Then Brake cleaner a plastic scraper and a lot of old rags. Don’t forget to where eye and respiratory PPE.
Leon’s post reminded me I should do an update. Any one wondering how I am doing this. I have the car on my lift, I start with a paint scraper to get anything loose off. Then Brake cleaner a plastic scraper and a lot of old rags. Don’t forget to where eye and respiratory PPE.
So I now have about 75% done. I will not get much done this week. Today we had snow and the granddaughter didn’t have school. But I did have fun with her out in the white cold stuff. Tomorrow maybe the only day for the rest of the week I can do any work. A friend of mine is getting eye surgery on Wednesday and I have volunteered to chuffer and care for her for a day or 2. The fewer days the better.
Here are a few updated pictures, First is last Monday having it about 45% done.
This is last Thursday, I did a little more after I took this shot.
Factory error anyone? Notice the about 1 square foot area that does not have any paint on it? I think someone wanted to get out of the paint shop and go home.
Friday I pulled the transmission. It too is numbers matching having the VIN stamped in it. I plan to get it rebuilt before I install it. Later this week I also have more new parts coming, I decided to rebuild the front suspension too.
I spent some time cleaning and detailing parts. I painted the new rear shocks and painted the green marking like the originals. I have to pull the fronts and clean one up so I can match the way they were painted too. I hope to get more painting done to the underside next week. I’m getting excited to get this car on the road.
More to come…
Nice work Neal. Going to be really neat when it’s done
Wish my PO hadn’t sprayed everything with black crap. It’s been 90F+ here all week. After about two hours I’m ringing wet and covered in crap. Oh for a hoist