I posted this on FB Cougarholic and was sent here. Problem is left and right blinkers blink all at once. Yarberry’s site says to look at the flasher. It is electronic. This is a build I’m doing and I have the luxury of having another 69 to swap with . From my good one I swapped, flasher unit and electronic box and it still does the same thing. Monitoring the blink function on both cars they run from 0v to about 7ishV and that number reliably blinks on my good one. I did have it working quite good recently and have been doing other electrical work on the cars engine compartment. The only thing left is the Turn signal switch which really hasn’t been used much as I’m building it. Nothings impossible but could the turn signal switch cause this? All other electrical and light circuits work perfectly. (so far) Regards, Glenn G
Additional Info. Yes the Emergency flasher is off. But, I did notice on my working car the flasher is sequencing only the two inner on both sides whereas, my troubled build is flashing all at once. Now I’m going to stuff my self with turkey and zone out. Perplexed in Oklahoma. Glenn G
Are the turn signals are operating in emergency flasher mode (both sides together) or are flashing all the lights on a single side simultaneously?
Also, is your good unit an original or replacement board?
In the trunk, verify that the green/white wire has flashing power during a LH turn and the white/blue wire has flashing power during a RH turn.
These signals, from the turn signal switch, are used to tell the controller to operate in turn signal mode instead of brake light mode.
That makes sense. I will measure. However, I have another 69 that works perfectly and I did swap the controller and the problem remained. So I am with you on the turn signal switch.
Also, several years ago I took care of some cold solder joints on one of the units that was failing and that restored reliable function.
Regards,
Glenn G
Vic,
Had to upload vid to you. Can’t post video cougar community. This is the readings to the controller while blinking. Still have all lights blinking .
Regard, Glenn G
The signals look normal although it’s hard to tell on a digital meter.
If both sides are flashing simultaneously, either the green/white and blue/white are externally shorted together or the switch is stuck internally in emergency mode.
Follow up for Vic.
To make sure we are on the same page, when I have the turn signal on, only the selected side blinks all on. Both sides do not blink at the same time.
I yanked out the TS switch and measured as the right side was active, The White/red is 13v steady. The other 2 are 0v-12v with an active turn signal. Emergency flasher switch is off. Are these correct?
Glenn G
Ok, a single side blinking together is a different problem.
The voltage signals look ok.
Which controller do you have?
Have someone operate the turn signals while you watch the rear.
Does the first flash sequence? And subsequent flashes are all together?
Vic,
I have the luxury of a finished cougar. The suspect controller works fine in my finished car. The finished cars controller does the same in the trouble car… The controllers are original. The old cold solder joints were remedied a while back. I did not see a sequence start as it went to all 3 at same time. However, I didn’t notice before or it just suddenly changed, both turn indicators in the cluster light and sync together on both sides. Mind you this is a current build and they have worked. I did pull the cluster and uncoupled the main connector with no change. I was also able to swap the upgraded flasher can as well.
I have been upgrading some features. I have the electric doors for headlights and they are on a relay harness that was bought specially for the combination to include the headlights from RCC Innovations and I have a Derale controller unit for electric fans. Those systems work correctly.
I betting this is an unusual failure.
Regards,
Glenn G
I don’t normally repair the original 1969-73 sequencer boards because of the unavailability of the original parts. I have seen this symptom on a few OEM boards. Typically, the first sequence works and then all lights (on a given side) flash together.
The symptom you describe could be attributed to one or more leaky diodes, SCRs, or the hybrid circuit. Also, a bad ground or too high charging voltage can cause it.
A flasher operating too fast can also cause it.
Note: Never use a battery charger for testing as the charger voltage fluctuations can cause havoc.
The fact that it works in a different Cougar means that something is different between the two cars - probably voltage or grounds.
Hi Vic,
I have been plowing through my connections and all and I have an addendum to the turn signal switch voltage. The blue wire connection at the ER flasher and lever side has a static voltage of 7.5 v.
Is that correct?
Regards,
Glenn G
If you mean by a “static voltage”, that this voltage is present when the turn signal lever is in the “off” (center) position, it should be the same on each side of the flasher.
The flasher is triggered by a load applied to the blue wire. A volt meter measures a voltage while drawing a very, very low current. This low current is insufficient to trigger the flasher but enough to measure.
Both an original flasher and my electronic flashers measure nearly the same voltage on the input/output with no load.
So, 7.5 V doesn’t sound normal.
Hi Vic,
I’m trying to get this all together. Good thing this car doesn’t have be finished on any schedule.
Here is what I have just measured this afternoon.
Static = key on only
At the solid state flasher I have
Static Orange = 12.75 V
Blue = 7.30
Turn signal Switch Blue stud = 7.30
Active blinker = Orange = 12.75
Blue = 10.50
Turn signal switch blue stud =9.20
Regards,
Glenn G
Those values don’t match the measurements I’ve taken with a stock and electronic flasher. Typically, both pins will measure the same voltage when the turn signal is off.
No current is being drawn by the bulbs, and the flasher default is on, so no voltage drop.
One last item to check:
Verify that the ground (on the side of the trunk latch support brace) is good.
A poor ground is a common problem with cars that have been repainted.
I recommend adding an external tooth washer between the terminal and the brace to bite through the paint.