If it’s starting to run, like the point where you would normally stop turning the key and put it in the run position, but then dying instantly with no sputtering when you put the key in the run position, that is exactly the way my XR7 was behaving when the tach died.
It’s really easy to see if it’s a dead tach-- all you have to do is remove the ashtray housing (held in with two screws) and reach up behind the dash where the tach connections are. There are two wires connecting to the tach, using the same barrel connector plugs you’ll find in other places-- all you have to do is bypass the tach by unplugging the two wires that connect to the tach wires and then plug them into each other.
When my tach died, folks on this forum diagnosed it immediately, and as soon as I bypassed the tach it was all good and has been since then. I still haven’t sent my tach to rocketman to get it rebuilt as a 3-wire tach, but I got my tax refund money and am gonna send it to him very soon. If it turns out your tach is dead, you may wanna do the same. With the 3-wire rebuild, if the tach dies in the future, it won’t kill your ignition circuit.
Alright guys, Have a issue the Automatic Shifter is loose, I need to fix it tomorrow and I need help A.S.A.P
Tomorrow I will post photos of the roof, and the trunk
I need to remove the Dash cover because its Sun killed and I wanna replace the Wood Grain Dash, clean it up and make it nice.Cleaned the interior some what today
I hope these links help. Don Rush and his crew at West Coast Classic Cougar’s have a great website with a lot of helpful videos. The air ride question…answer is no. Air shocks were probably just used to help lift sagging leaf springs.
Steven
One trick you can try with the wood grain is to freshen it up by using brown shoe polish. I tried that on one of my previous cars and it worked pretty well. It’s a cheap alternative to an expensive swap if you’re happy with the result.
Thank you, I noticed the Shifter was loose and about had a Heart attack lol, but I got it brought it home yesterday.Throwing the Original Spare tire cover(All rotted) but keeping every Part I see.Previous owner put a lot of things in it before he sold it I guess.New Water Pump,Radiator hose etc…Forgot to take Roof photos.I’m going to probably sandblast it and then Primer it
I just want to offer some advise. Certain items are best turned over to professionals depending on a owners skill level. Sandblasting done improperly can lead to warping of the body panels causing bigger issues. I’m not saying you’re not capable but bodywork is the first thing most people see when mistakes are made. Just food for thought. Good luck and enjoy your Cougar and keep us posted with pictures.
Steven
Got the Cougar running for the most part…Cranks up…Blew white smoke out of it…I heard it crank up and rev’ed it up and went off…It’s been getting better compared to the other days…The Carb’s been sitting for awhile
Rood issues
The Dash isn’t wooden, its plastic, how am I supposed to use shoe polish on it
Can anyone tell me how to fix my Automatic Headlights ?
The wood grain pieces don’t have to absorb the shoe polish. Just wipe it on and hand buff it like detailer on body panels. It restores some color and shine to the piece. If the piece is too far gone, it won’t be enough of an improvement but it’s cheap enough to take a shot at it.
I’m sure there is a way to fix it, I am going to have sheet metal placed where the Rusted metal is…Does anyone have any Free parts they’d like to donate
I need to get a New Dash cover and headboard, Fix the Chromes…
How can I fix the lights, because my Dash lights work, and I don’t think the others do
Is that the worst of the roof? How does it look around the rear window? Curious about the roofs integrity,. Does the metal flex easily when you apply light to moderate palm pressure in the areas of heaviest corrosion? One good spot to check to see if there is extensive rust damage, is to look around the lower part of the rear window from inside the trunk. You will be looking for obvious pushed through rust holes dripping pink body filler or stuffed with newspaper …don’t count the evenly spaced holes which the stainless vinyl top trim was attached through…if they have been filled.
I used the palm of my hand to pop the top of the Roof…Yeah thats the worst…The previous owner has fixed the rear window part and yeah I’ve checked it with a Phillips Screw Driver…Its only bad on the front window, I have a guy that has a 70 Cougar locally coming to help me get it started and fix the possible leaks.I need to fix the shifter
The hole area is pretty strong in a way, I can patch up the Roof pretty EASY I guess,I got all the Chrome trim for the windows and the front window
I will post more photos of the Roof tomorrow, and my progress
I bought some Rustoleom Primer,Tire shine,Engine Chrome shiner tonight at Wally world
Alright Listen, I put a New Fuel Pump in it,Coil and replaced the old dry rotted Hoses…It spits gas out of the Carb, and the Carb looks almost brand new.NEEDING HELP ASAP.Hoping I can get this thing Running soon…someone help me, No one is responding and I am stranded trying to figure out whats going on
when was the last time the engine started and ran?
Does the engine turn / crank when you turn the key?
If the engine turns / cranks, does it sputter at all like it is trying to start?
Has it sputtered at all ever while you were cranking it?
You said it “spits gas out of the carb”. Do you mean it is dripping, or squirting? Or when you pump the gas are you seeing a mist poof out of the carb?
Do you know if you have spark at all?
Is the spark getting to the plugs?
Have you checked the plugs to see if they are fouled?
Previous owner said Feb
Yeah it cranks, the fan turns.and you can hear it turn
Yea
Its dripping just a little
I checked the Spark plugs,and they look to be great
Carb dripping a little fuel could be a leak where the fuel line connects to the carbs inlet, like a clamp that’s loose, it could be a bad gasket between the air horn and the carb body, it could be a bad gasket between the carb and the intake (or spacer, if there’s a spacer), it could be that the floats are set to overfill the bowls (and a bad gasket between air horn and body), or could be something else that I can’t think of but someone else could.
If its actually shooting fuel out the top, you might wanna check and make sure it has rods installed. My buddy told me a funny story about rebuilding his carb and going to fire the car up without having put the rods back in. Said fuel was shooting out the top of the carb.
If you’ve got fuel leaking at the carb, the good news is then at least you know you’ve got a pump that’s pushing fuel and lines that are providing it.
Have you checked that you’ve actually got spark? The test where you pull each spark plug wire off its plug (one at a time!) and hold it near the engine block while you crank it? I’m gonna go out on a limb and say that would be a very, very, VERY bad test to perform while you’ve got a fuel leak!
