1968 C code

Hi
I picked up a media blaster today. It done some looking into using them for cleaning parts and it looks like this will give the best final finish. I was wondering what media forum members use when cleaning engine parts.
Thanks
Evan

Glass beads. You don’t want a media that will leave a texture.

It’s one of the most useful tools you can have for restoration work. Glass beads seem to be the go-to. How big of a cabinet? The bigger the better IMO, because you can do large items like wheels, etc. The biggest item I’ve blasted is a rear axle housing, but I did have to hang the end slightly out the side door…

I bought floor standing media blaster it’s fairly good size. Looking forward to trying it out. Was doing some looking. Would crushed glass or glass beads be better to use. Where I got the blaster I know they had crushed glass, but I’m not sure if they,had the beads.

The crushed glass is a bit more aggressive and probably fine for a lot of parts. But I would use the beads on any aluminum or softer metals. If you really want to go all out, a lot of the concours Mustang guys are using a tumbler with ceramic media. The results are really good, but the problem is a decent size tumbler will run you 4-5 times what you likely paid for your cabinet.

What does the Canadian Spring Promotion package include?

I also have that Spring Promotion Package?? Like the one guy stated it’s probably a few little things thrown into the deal.

Likely a free set of full wheel hub caps, turbine style. Otherwise with the options shown it would have had the dog dish hum caps.

After a long drawn out harvest season I’m finally able to get back working on my car. Being a farmer I don’t get anytime during the summer months to work on it. I have a question, one of the shops the previous owner took the car to for work used a cutting torch to make access holes for the grease zerks on the suspension. What is the best way to deal with this. They are ugly and I know they weaken the shock towers a fair bit.

Thanks


Weld in a patch, grind and paint.

I doubt that unless you are planning on autocrossing that it’ll make any difference as far as the shock towers flexing.

Thanks stonesg. That’s what I kind of figured.

I pulled the cylinder for the power steering system off tonight as well. when I got it off I noticed the end was bent. Is it supposed to be bent, if not is it a problem that will affect the steering.

Thanks
Evan

No, it should not be bent. I am not sure how it would effect the steering, my bigger concern would be if the bend fatigued the metal and if it could break off if the correct circumstances were met. If it were mine I would replace it.

Randy Goodling
CCOA #95

Got busy with Christmas during December, finally got a chance to get a bit more work done on my car this afternoon.
Mine is missing the fuel line protector that goes across the floor boards, fortunately my old parts car still had its, so i pulled it off today and cleaned it up. Also did the fan pulley for on the crank shaft. The media blaster does a nice job of cleaning off rust and old chipped paint.
Here are some before and afters shots.

Hi
I’ve been media blasting parts for my car in my spare time, haven’t got a lot done but some. I was wondering parts like the battery box, would have that been spray painted or dipped when the car was being built.
Also what would be the best to,paint them with, I’ve been looking at some of the Eastwood products?
Thanks
Evan

Hi. I haven’t posted anything for quiet a while. I don’t have a lot of time in the summer to do much work on my car. I did manage to get an afternoon to roll it outside and pressure wash of 50 odd years of crud from the front end. Which made a huge improvement.


I have a question. I’ve been working on removing everything from the engine compartment so I can repaint it. I’m having trouble getting some of the brake lines undone. Is there any point in trying to save them or am I better off to cut them and replace them all. The car has been sitting for quite a few years, I’m concerned about corrosion and such inside the lines.
Thanks
Evan

Just replace them.

Cut and replace.

A coil of line and fittings is way cheap as is a simple flare tool.

There’s a satisfaction in making your own and you know they will fit perfectly.

It’s a good skill to have.

Hi

I’ve finally had time to get back to work on my car this week. Made some good progress the last few days, I feel any way. Mostly just cleaning old paint and undercoating off the inner wheel wells. I’m working on the the driver side. I have to pull the suspensions all off to fix the holes someone cut in the shock towers. I want to replace the gas shocks, ball joints and all the suspension bushings while I’m at it, more than likely going to need to do some brake work as well. I’m going to keep the car as close to stock as possible but wouldn’t mind a bit of handling upgrade. Is there any particular gas shock I should look for. I would prefer it to lock as close to stock as possible. Also is there any difference in ball joints and bushings or are they all the same basically. I know some parts are good and some aren’t when working on anything these days.

Suspension 101:

The ONLY thing a shock is doing is dampening the movement of the suspension.

Whether high speed gas or just old school hydraulic, all that matters is the amount of weight both vehicle and un-sprung that it has to deal with and duty cycle.

If it’s just “normal” driving, you can do with a stock shock or whatever gas charged equivalent you can find.

Any of the high speed shock manufacturers would have recommendations for fit depending on your needs so just like a cam selection, you’d be best to consult with them if your needs are other than “normal”.

Hi
I’m working on the front suspension and steering on my 68 cougar. The ball joints and tie rods were all replaced in the mid 90’s before I bought it. I drove the car for a couple years, and than very little for a few more years after that. It’s been parked for the last 15 or so years due to some issues and a lack of place to work. There is maybe 10000 miles on them. They feel good, no play in them I can feel. The problem is the rubber boots have deteriorated due to leaking brake and power steering fluid. I found that you can replace the rubber cap on them. Is this a good idea, or should I replace the entire ball joint and tie rod?