Superb Steven! 
It has been a little while since I posted an update. The inner drip rail took more work to get right. After I had thought all of it was complete I ran into a big snag. The old saying “measure twice cut once” came into play. The drip rail was mounted, sealed and leak free. That is when I noticed when I was putting the top frame up and down I had about an 1/8" clearance between the top frame and the rail as they passed. Not good considering that the top has not been installed on the frame. It was just too close for comfort. I tried moving the adjusting bolts for the fame inward but they were already close to their max. So another drip rail had to be made with a narrower dimension. I’m glad to say that this process worked just fine. I know have plenty of clearance for the fabric of the convertible top when it’s installed. During this fabrication I decided against adding drain tubes in the drip rail. I’m using the factory Mustang method of letting the water drain into the body area under the rear quarter windows. I figure with a good primer and seal coat this area will be safe from rust and I won’t have to worry about clogged drain tubes in the future.
Steven
I have started on the rebuild of front end steering and braking components. Today I pulled the passenger side disc brake caliper and lower control arm. Everything came off pretty easy. If you look closely at the pictures you can see how worn the bushings are and how they were in need of change.
Yep, crusty! Love those cracking sway bar bushings.
Once you get those pieces nice and shiny you need to show it off to us. You probably already know, but, if you are going to remove your springs be sure to use a high quality spring compressor. I really like the one I purchased, which basically replaces the shock.
What’s that knob sticking up at the end of the strut link next to the lower ball joint? Some kind of positive stop for the steering?
Jody that is exactly what I think it is.
Do you have a link to where you bought your spring compressor? I’ll also take shiny pictures and post when done.
Hi Steven, this is the spring compressor I used for my 70.
I would recommend getting a thrust bearing as well. The thrust bearing works great and I was able to compressor my coil spring using one arm fairly effortlessly.
Steve thanks for the link and pictures. Great idea about the thrust bearing.
Steven
Steve thanks again for the link but I went a slightly different direction. I wanted to use the same method for compressing the spring that you did except I made my own compressor tool. I figured the couple of dollars that I saved fabricating the tool can be used to buy other parts for the project. After looking at the pictures that you supplied it seemed pretty simple to fabricate. I used some scrap 1" tubing, all thread and a piece of 1/4" flat bar. I used my shock as a guide for the bolt hole measurements and the overall length. I’ll post some more pictures of it installed and as I remove the bolts for the spring perch and the upper control arm.
Steven
I spent a little time checking the fit and working of my spring compressor. Everything fit fine and it is fairly easy to compress the spring during the trial run. I still have some items left to disassemble before I remove the spring but so far so good.
Seeing that the brake calipers work good with no leaks I turned some attention to fixing the “crusty” finish. I used Rustoleum hammered paint and I was pleased with the finish it provided.
Before:
After:
The front end rebuild kit arrived earlier this week. Upper, lower control arms, tie rod ends, strut bushings and sway bar kit. I’m making progress on my steering and braking components.
I stripped and cleaned the spindle and disc shield. After that I added a fresh coat of paint.
After I had the disc turned I packed new bearings and started reassembling them.
I reassembled the passenger side spindle and brake assembly.
I finished taking out the the upper control arm, coil spring cover, coil spring and spring perch.
I placed an order with WCCC’s for new coil spring perches. I snapped the two bolts holding the perch to the control arm and the kit that was already purchased did not come with new perches. So it was a perfect time two get new ones.
Steven
Great progress shots, Steven. I’ve been saving all of these pics to a file so I’ve got something to look at in January which is when I plan to pull the front of mine apart to redo all of the front suspension and steering.
Looking sharp. The '68 front brakes are quite a bit different from the '67.
Thanks Jody. Have you made your fog lamp buckets yet?
Thanks Greg. Yes there is quite a difference on the brakes from my 67 to the 68. My 67 S code has 4 wheel power drums and the J code 68 has the disc set up.
As I wait for the front end parts to arrive I decided to get rid of the hacked up battery tray.
It will be great not having to look at that nasty battery tray anymore when I open the hood. 
Steven
As I continue the front end rebuild I take smaller parts with me to work on while I’m on shift at the Fire Department. The latest is the instrument cluster. I took the cluster apart so I could do some detail work. After cleaning the gauge faces I repainted the indicator needle ends with new orange paint. I also gave the speedometer hash marks a coat of orange so I know when I’m speeding. 
Before
After
The new spring perches arrived from WCCC’s so I’ve started getting the upper control arm put back together after a fresh coat of two tone paint and installing the new bushings.
Tell us (or at least me) Steven, what is the secret to getting the dogbone (with its course threads) back together with the nuts (with their much finer threads on the outside)?
Bob the hardest part for me was getting the O-ring to seat inside of the new nut. I used a little grease to get everything to seat nicely. I slid the “dog-bone” all of the way to one side of the control arm and once the I got past the O-ring everything threaded well. Before I went to far on one side I started threading the other end of the dog-bone and it went pretty smooth. I was worried about the fine threads on the control arm but everything went together without a hitch. The grease zert fittings is not exactly how I wanted them to sit. I did not want to rotate them much further for fear of stripping or breaking them off. I did a test fit and I’m able to get a grease gun on them so I’m good with the result.
Steven
Just an FYI. You have the spring saddles rotated the wrong direction. That tab sticking up from the saddle needs to go toward the back of the control arm. Otherwise you will have a tough time getting the coils back in.