We are having problems in figuring out a solution to the rear end ride height also. ‘67 factory 289 4V, 4 spd, PS,Pb. See attached photo for ride height before and after rebuild. (If I can figure out how to attach the two images)
Car now has new leaf springs, WCCC pt # 43009 & new shackles, pt # 26716, upgraded wheels/tires to 17”, new 9” rear end, 347 with Tremec 5 spd. Springs have been physically compared side to side, top to bottom. They measure up identically.
Have not tried putting the old springs in, yet. They have either 107K or 207K, and seems retro to put them back in the car.
Also, really hesitant to remove a leaf.
Any ideas out there?
Thanks
Ron
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I don’t see a photo in your post.
Neither do I. I’m not finding the proper tab
Are these the same car-before and after?
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I do know that new steel leaf springs do settle a bit after some initial miles. I don’t know how much however.
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How much do you want it to come down? Will the tires fit inside the wheels well or will they hit the fender if it comes down?
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I know 67/68 arw different than my 69 but this is what mine looks like-17x8 w/245 rear tires. I now have 17x9.5” with 275 rear tires tucked into the wheel well.
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People have different tastes for how they want their cars to look. I’m cool with whatever vision you have for your car. Nice Wilwood rear brakes BTW.
My suggestion is to drive it and see how much it settles then determine if you like it or not. Adjust accordingly with lowering blocks or re-arching the springs. My strong suggestion to you is do not reinstall the saggy floppy worn out old rear leaf springs!
Yes, it’s the same car. The 17x8 rear with 245 tires fit in the wheel well. I’m looking to get the rear end to stock settings.
Thanks for verifying my thoughts about the old springs.
Tremec strongly recommends getting the rear ride height set before measuring for the new drive shaft.
BTW, car has Panhard rod & Sub frame connectors.
Ron
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Subframe connectors shouldn’t have any impact on this unless they impacted the front spring mount area (pushed it rearward shortening the distance between the eyes and increasing the arc).
The Panhard bar shouldn’t impact ride height either. You’ve got a connection to the chassis on one side of the car and a mount connected to the axle housing on the other. I don’t think that would affect ride height to the extent you’re seeing.
I understand your reluctance to order a drive shaft until you have ride height nailed down. I did a custom driveshaft as well (TKO600 from factory 3 speed manual trans). That’s a tough situation. Sorry I didn’t have a silver bullet for you to load up.
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What is the factory measurement from Pinch weld to the floor?
Going to get the springs re-arched.
Tks
Ron
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had the same issue. your going to need lowering blocks. and then wait for the springs to settle
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How much did your springs settle? How many miles/time etc
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Nice wheels…!
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Thanks! Your taste is impeccable as well! 
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If planning to try a lowering block be aware it’s not quite a simple install. You will either need custom make a block to fit the cougar spring mounting/pinion degree wedge or convert to a mustang setup. Making a block is pretty easy if you have some fabrication skills. As far as I know no one makes a cougar specific block.
Here is mine with a 1” lowering block and stock height springs. 17”s with 245s and I have more room for more tire as well
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As near as I can figure out, in order to get the rear end down to the desired height, if I were to have the springs re-curved, they would need to have at not less than 3 inches taken out of the arch. Based on the next fact, the current bottom of pinch weld to floor is 12" on both sides. I believe I saw someplace the factory measurement was in the 6 3/4 to 7 1/4" range. This measurement indicates a re-arching to taking nearly 5" out of the spring. This makes me extremely worried about the life expectancy, handling, etc, due to the fact the springs would be nearly straight across.
The car has not been in any accidents, outside of what looked like a fork lift encounter (before I purchased the car) that required inner & outer wheel houses and 1/4 skin.
If I have the springs re-arched, should I worry about removing up to 5" arch?
thanks
Ron
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Might be helpful if you posted a picture of your axle to spring mounting. Your original photo from the outside looked like the axle was mounted pretty close to spring- might have been angle of photo. Something seems “off”. I changed rear springs in my car and other than a very slight settling was spot on for height.
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