huh i will definately look into that vynil paint. Just another update i was driving it the otherday and the fuel pump died, it was spitting gas onto my engine! it was kinda scary but i was lucky and found a new pump for $25 and put it in and it only took me an hour. now it runs way better and idols alot better too. so major crisis averted!
so can anybody tell me what this light is? it comes on whenever i turn the key and it stays on the entire time and i cant find a high enough resolution picture to show me what this is and i cant find any scmatics for it either so i i could get some help i would be very greatful
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It is the brake warning lamp. Here is a diagram showing how the brake warning lamp switch works.
oh thank you very much!!! my brakes work fine though so why is my light staying on?
You probably need to rebuild your proportioning valve/ distribution block ( what was posted in the picture above). There are seals and a spring that can go bad and is gauranteed to be bad on a car over 40 years old. You can do it yourself and there is a video by wccc on how to do it step by step. I have the kit with all the seals and will be doing mine soon. My brake light is always on also. and stops… good. But could be better I also have brake fluid that overflows out of the master cylinder. Which is either caused by the prop.valve and distribution block. or the brake booster. Those are the only things I havent rebuilt or got new in my brake system. I have to refill the master cylinder every now and then.
This will tell ya everything you need to know.
http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/propvlvkit.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kOCpaFGWGw&feature=plcp
Hey guys I know its been a while but Ive been cruisin on this project with very few problems so thats good 
i do have a question now though, I need the bolt circle pattern for an 11" clutch, mine has a 10.5" clutch and those are hard to come by and expensive when i do. but i have this 11" clutch sitting on the shelf and i work in a machine shop so i have all the materials to make this 11" clutch work so once i have the bolt circle pattern i can just draw it up on autocad then put it in the cnc mill and boom i have a flywheel that will fit an 11" clutch 
thanks you guys you have been extreamly helpful thus far and i know that you guys always are super good and friendly to help buy the time this car is done ill owe all of you a million hahaha
another question…does anybody here have a 4-speed transmission that they would be willing to part with???
one more thing, i am tinking with my gas guage while my transmission and flywheel are getting done because it doesnt work, where can i find a scematic of the gas gauge so i know where to start with it?
Hey Drew, The wire you want to look for is YELLOW w/ WHITE STRIPE. Runs from the fuel/temp gauge to fuel sending unit in the gas tank. Doubt your car has a low fuel warning light,…so just one wire to chase down. Usually the biggest offender is the float on the sending unit,…if the float gets a pin hole in it, it will fill with gas, the float will be heavy and will not rise when fuel is in the tank,…gauge will read as empty. If this is the case you will need to pull the sending unit/float assy. out of the fuel tank. Once the unit is out, give it a shake,…do you hear fluid sloshing around in the float can,…if so, PIN HOLE! Find the hole and fill it with some solder,…Ahhh make sure you get all the gas out of the float first,…then solder. Is your temp gauge working??? if not, the problem may be with the Constant Voltage Unit or the gauge itself,…the unit is located on the back of the dash panel also,…with the rest of the instrument wiring…it’s a little silver rectangular box with two wires going to it. Anyway,…first things first, make sure you have a good ground at the sending unit in/at the gas tank, then do a continuity test on the yellow/white wire,…make sure it’s good. Remember is the temp gauge working!!..if not, Constant Voltage Unit or temp/fuel gauge may be the problem. THEN pull the fuel sending unit from the gas tank and see if there is a pin hole in the float. THE FLOAT IS USUALLY THE PROBLEM!!!
sweet i will definately check on all that stuff and report back with how it goes thank you
another question, my windows roll down just by pushing on them or they start to fall down while i am driving how do i fix them to keep them to stay up?
You replace the window regulator with a new one. Fortunately the same regulator is used in Mustang of the same year. So a new one is only $50.
Hello everyone.
My name is Dave and 6 weeks ago I picked up a 1968 cougar. This is a project car solid soild body and it came with many extra parts.
Now that i found this site I will be on here asking many questions because Ill need other opinions on resturation and 2 Because Im a chevy guy.
Flint Michigan Born and raised and most of my family worked for GM.
Hope to get to know some of you
Welcome!
lots of knowledge in here!
just click on Member Locations on the top left, and stick your pushpin in… you’ll also get to see who’s near.
This might help
http://www.classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=146&p=870&hilit=old+gas#p870
welcome Dave1968! its good to have you here! just an update on my restoration, Got my flywheel drilled and tapped out to the 11" clutch and it all fits and matches up perfectly! so that will be going back together tomorrow when my rear main seal, piolt bearing and throw out bearing get here then i am just waiting on my transmission to come back and then she will be hitting thre road again!
Dave I just want to add my welcome to you. I can say, it’s great to have another new member here at the Classic Cougar Cougar Community. It’s even better that you are a Chevy guy that is “turning from the dark side” 
and joining the Mercury camp. Just joking, all car guys have a passion that keeps this hobby going. 
Again welcome! How about posting some pictures of your Cougar.
Steven
so i know its been quite a long time since i have posted on here but i have an update!
So i was moving to Logan Utah for the month of august and i wanted to take my car down there to drive so i put it in double time, got the transmission all rebuild, but the new clutch and flywheel on, replaced the fuel sending unit and then she drove just perfect, i also put on a brand new sexy looking Edelbrock air filter that sucked in alot more than my old little one so i have a feeling that helped a little 
. I drove it down from where i live in Idaho (a 2 hour drive, really long in the dead summer with no ac! haha) then drove it all over Logan, turning heads everywhere I went, in fact one time while i was filling it up at a gas station a guy came up and offered to buy it from me on the spot haha. anyways i had no trouble with it until the day i was headed home, i got a few miles out of town and all of the sudden my engine started sputtering and wouldnt drive, i spend an extra day there trouble shooting (i tried replacing the fuel pump) but it just didnt work so i had my dad come down with the trailer and we hauled it back up 
then school started and my free time almost disappeared haha but when i had time i changed all of the fuel lines and fuel filters, then after i did that she started and ran beautifully! so ive been driving her to school and back and such, but next im starting on my breaks, they work really well but they just need some tuning up so im gonna start on that any suggestions??? 
You might wanna look into at least checking out the carb if not rebuilding it straight away. I had issues with running rough and stalling a while back, and replaced my fuel tank and lines and filter at the time (already had replaced the pump). But in that whole process, I also checked the float levels (one turned out to be off by a bit) and saw that both bowls of the carb had huge piles of little rust flakes sitting in them, presumably due to the rust in the original tank and lines. A rebuild of my carb is hopefully gonna happen this winter.
So my noob advice is that you might wanna at least check yours out, check the bowls for rust as well as making sure the accelerator pump is working right and not clogged. And while you have the top off the carb, check the float levels too, can’t hurt.
Apologies if you already mentioned having done this, it’s been a while since I read this thread.
And hey, congrats on getting her out on the road! Isn’t it awesome?