1968 RESTORATION HELP!!!

My passenger side lock opens easy no problems. but I always have to jimmy the drivers a little. I have to angle it in a certain way every time. But I want to get all new locks and ignition eventually so I’m not too worried about my problem. I wouldn’t try dw40. When I used to put that stuff in my skate board berrings it would attract all kinds of dirt and dust. Then again it was closer to the ground and dirt was constantly half an inch away.
I don’t know for sure if it would be good or bad but if it were mine I would try something a little cleaner.

alright i will look up some other methods see what i can do to get them lose thanks :slight_smile: ill let you guys know when i come across my next problem :slight_smile:

so since I have everything working except for the clutch, i for sure know its the clutch my motormounts are ok, I figure i can deal with the shaking and I am thinking about just driving it around now, would that be ok or would i ruin something?

also my turning signals work but they do not blink they just stay on, Im assuming that its only a fuse problem, but where would i find the fuses to replace them?

have you been there?

http://www.thuntek.net/cougars_unlimited/seqts.htm

They don’t blink on the outside of the car or they don’t blink on the dashboard? Two different things there. There is a special sequencer for the rear turn signals that is located in the driver’s size trunk drop-off.

There are lots of threads about how the turn signal sequencers work, I’m pretty sure, so chances are any question you can come up with about them has already been answered. If you’re in a pinch for time, the search function might be quicker than waiting for a response, on turn signals anyway. Doing a search for just the word “sequencer” would probably get you what you need.

both my dash and the outside blinkers dont work
i did get the door locks fixed i went to the lock smith with the car and they made a few new cuts in the keys and now they work just great in both the ignition and in the doors

oh and he did tell me that the reason you would have to wiggle your drivers side locks to get it to turn right is because you probably have a stuck pin in the tumbler

On the door lock thing ,…I’d puff some powdered graphite in the key slot and work the key around. I agree too that latch assembly and associated rod linkage could use a good cleaning and a lube with lithium.

Thanks for that info mr drew. I’m going to get some of that graphite and see what I can too. And since we’re on topic of locks here, when locking and closing doors I have to hold the door button in to get it to lock other wise when it will just unlock when I close the door. But on my drivers side door I don’t have to hold the door handle button I just push it locked and close the door and it stays locked. Why do I have to hold the door button in only on the passengers side? Anyone?

The good lock and tumbler cleaner/lube is; Houdini…a locksmith shop should carry,…if this stuff doesn’t unstick and lube the lock,…it’s broken!
Coug67…you should have to hold the release button in on both doors when closing to lock…mystery.

mine unlocks itself when i shut the door too but on both sides, i think that was so you dont accendently lock your keys in the car, i always have to lock them from the outside with the key. and the locksmith also let me borrow some “lock lube” and i used some of that in mine and they turn pretty smooth so just another option.

sorry to change the subject but i am working on my rear lighting and Im having a hard time figuring out the wire routs and just what goes to where does anybody know where i could find a good scematics chart for the wiring of the whole car??? cause im gonna need it for when i finish the interior as well.

You don’t necessarily have to use your keys to lock it. If you push the button to lock it, and then while you’re closing it you hold in the button on the door handle (the button you use to open the door from the outside) then it won’t unlock, it will stay locked after you close it. I think that was a pretty common thing with old cars with push-button handles.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&hash=item53ebe8cd52would+this+help%3F&item=360440188242&nma=true&pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&rt=nc&si=KpH90AqVCKdeJYyRjoyO2K4Pls8%253D&vxp=mtr&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

this guy has the electrical plans, with an easier color code to follow than black/white manuals

@tmh oh i did not know that thank you very much :slight_smile: thats alot eaiser hahah
and @johnboy thank you a ton!!! that is exactly what i am looking for and with the color coated that will make it a million times easier!!! :slight_smile:

so how hard is it to restore the intierior panels? cause mine are pretty rough but i dont have enough to buy new ones any suggestions?

“New” ones aren’t available for first gen cars, if you’re talking about the door panels. You might be able to find used “better” ones from WCCC, or Ebay, etc. Otherwise, your choices are full-blown customs, or, re-dye the existing ones. The vendors carry vinyl dye’s to “match” your interior. On mine, I dyed from blue to black…but customs are in the future.

I have just been cleaning up mine but i may take them in to a detailer and have them really clean them, then i dont think they will be to bad and then they will be original as well,

I used black vynil paint. Origionally mine were white. It holds up pretty darn good. Scratches off here and there over time but I just paint em again ha. It is only temporary right now but made them look 1,000 times better.