So, I’m kinda new to the forum and interested in the general consensus on build options. I recently acquired a pretty nice 67 that was sans drivetrain. Last week I dragged home an 84 Ford F150 with just over 109,000 miles. Yesterday, I yanked out the truck’s 351 Windsor and C6 transmission.
My plan is to rebuild a good running 351W in hopes it will require NO machine work. Fresh rings, bearings, timing chain, freeze plugs and gaskets are the minimum that will be replaced. Maybe a cam and valve job too.
I’m considering having the C6 rebuilt and use it with the rebuilt 351. I was planning to do a T5 Borg Warner/ Tremic, but the conversion components will cost more than the transmission itself. Either way, a custom driveshaft will need to be made.
I had actually found a '66 289 w/ 4 speed top loader and hurst shifter locally and for a reasonable price. The period correct setup wasn’t really a consideration, until I stumbled into it. In the end, I chose the motor that I had actually had seen run. (The 351)
I hadn’t planned it but the 289 and four speed got me thinking about something more like a restoration, rather than just a “let’s see what I can find” hot rod." I think I might be onto a slick sleeper motor. It will look very much like the 289 with 62 c.i. hidden under all that Ford blue paint
About the only thing usable from that 84 truck is block crank and rods, everything else needs to be upgraded.
The block will need a bath, the cylinders at least should be honed, different (better) heads, intake manifold, carb better exhaust manifolds, cam lifters and the list goes on. I know what you have in mind, because that is the same thing I started with for my 67 Cougar.
Whatever you do , good luck with it.
Thank you for the input! So, tell me why I would need to replace the pistons and wrist pins at only 109K miles. I’m not challenging your opinion. I’m asking because I don’t know. I understand the intake and exhaust replacement is a performance recommendation. Cam and lifters is gonna happen at this point anyway.
I’m not looking to fool Ford guys or even “Chevy Nazis.” I would like to build a car that looks stock and can outrun a garden variety Mustang GT. I actually want the folks who know to “get it”. BTW, there are two Chevys, a Dodge, the Cougar and a Ford plug in hybrid in the corral. They all have their merits and foibles, just like every person. Since you are a diehard Ford guy, you should be glad I found the 351. I was thinking pretty hard about dropping a really tight 325 HP small block Chevy I already had in there. I opted for “prolly outta” vs “coulda’ easy.” Thanks for the info. I recon I’m almost a real Ford guy. I didn’t know about the deck height difference, until I started this build. I’m learning all about the firing order differences from block to block and year to year. It’s all part of the puzzle, the fun and the challenge.
As I tell my wife, “It keeps me out of the pool halls and kitty bars.”
Replacing the pistons and increasing compression pretty much the building block to get more power out of this emission 351W. If it was originally a 2 barrel then horsepower rating would have been around 150 stock. Getting the compression up to around 9 to 1 along with some better heads and cam will move power needle into a category where you might surprise someone. I have a 68 XR7 with a 69 351W w/Edelbrock Performer and 600cfm carb with headers- car runs nice but would it out run a late model Mustang GT with a Coyote? Not likely. Can you build a reasonably priced 351w that is a driver engine- sure thing. Getting the power up to the “sleeper” category is going to cost more $$$$. Maybe you can find some used heads and intake to help with cost of putting a higher compression short block together. Guys aren’t knocking your build- just trying help you get the end result you desire. Sounds like a good build- have fun with it.
Okay, this is why I asked! I understand why I would want to replace the heads. How would replacing the pistons up the performance? I’m not building a boosted or sprayed engine here. Going with forged pistons is something you would do for a race engine build.
I get that the smog era heads, make for a lower compression ratio. Now, here’s the $1000 question… Couldn’t I have the stock heads milled to reduce the size of the combustion chamber? I just remember that it was a thing, back in the day. I’m kinda taking a taking a '67 car and performing a '87 hop up here. Didn’t we just mill the smog heads in the 80"s, to overcome the low compression?
So, it’s been a while. I’ve taken what I learned and listened. So, here’s where it’s at… Rebuilt including cam bearings, street/strip roller cam conversion, aluminum heads, new oil pump, new double timing chain, roller rockers, custom chromoly pushrods, aluminum timing cover and aluminum water pump.
I’ve made the appropriate front sump oil pan conversion. There’s a cool aluminum dual plane intake and Summit 750 CFM carburetor waiting to sit on top. I’m going with the cheap Delco style electronic distributor.
I’m calculating a 10.4:1 compression ratio and the HP website calculators are averaging it to make just over 400HP to the flywheel.
Looking forward to see this in your car. I’m planning the same for my 68 but with a newer roller block. I’m curious if you end up with clearance/fitment issues
I’m getting closer. I finished up the drivetrain back in May. The 351W and a new Tremic T5 was the way to go. I cobbled together a hydraulic clutch system. Here’s a video of the first time it’s moved under its power.
The brakes are still jenkie and it’s all set to start tearing it back apart to do all the bodywork. It’s mid July in SW Florida, so the car is just going to sit until it gets cooler.
