I recently picked up a 1995 351w roller motor out of a van and will spend the winter rebuilding it so it can eventually replace the 302 in my '68 XR-7. It’s currently at the machine shop getting bored, so I’m starting to collect parts for reassembly. I’m sure I’ll have several questions for those who’ve been there, done that, and here’s the first:
The van engine has a goofy double sump oil pan, so I’ll need to replace that with a front sump pan. I’ve been searching the usual places, and I’m only finding front sump pans listed for up to 1977. I’m wondering if these will fit my 1995, or if I need to find a year specific pan. I know at some point in the early 90’s Ford switched to the one piece rear main seal, so maybe that has an effect on pan configuration? I’ll also be looking for a new oil pick-up tube to go with it, so any direction there would be helpful as well.
I’m pretty sure the one-piece rear seal change was closer to the mid 80s. 1983 seems to stick in my mind.
I installed a 1994 351W in my 68 and used a 1974 351W oil pan that was on the engine I originally intended to rebuild. I was able to get a front sump pick-up from my local Ford dealer at the time. This was the mid-90s when I did the swap.
You should be able to use most all parts from 69 351W’s up for your 95 build.
However, this all falls apart when you get to harmonic balancers and flywheels.
I think to keep with your 68 pulley alignments etc you will need to stick with 69/70 balancers and pulleys. Of course if 70’s had the 4 bolt pulley mount then I’d back that up to say you need a 69 balancer and crank pulley. Which is what I put in my 68 way back in 1982.
You can run an early timing chain cover (or a replacement “fits all engines”) and your stock water pump as well, and oil dipstick. You will need to add a fuel pump eccentric to the front of your cam gear also if going with manual fuel pump with the old or replacement cover so equipped (regular fuel pump).
If you have clutch linkage to deal with, your block may not have the provision for the bellcrank pivot ball. You’ll need an aftermarket adapter for that.
Check your W pan rail…on LH side…it may have a dipstick hole in that area you will need to plug… (New timing or old 68 one will use regular front mount dipstick.)
Keep the illusion of old!!! :))))
I believe that the 351W retained the 28oz imbalance for flywheels and flex plates… If someone else knows this to be true, please chime in.
I built a 94 302 roller motor into a 331, so all of the rotating pieces were chosen to be 28oz balance… But needed to go thru all the other component changes as above!
Your distributor gear will likely be up for changing to a compatible version for steel gear on camshaft since this is a roller cam design.
Stay with a standard volume oil pump. Less likely to float valvetrain this way at higher RPMs.
That’s about all I can recall at this time!
Good luck and enjoy this when you get done…the extra torque and cubic inches is great in a 68!
Steve
Thanks guys. I think that answers my question regarding the oil pan. I’ll go ahead and order an earlier model pan and pickup, and it sounds like I’ll be ok.
I hadn’t given any consideration to the balancer yet. I believe all 351s (W and C) have the 28 oz imbalance. I recently did an AOD swap, so I have a new 28 oz flex plate that I’ll reuse. But it looks like I need to look into a new balancer so I can use my existing 302 pulleys.
Thanks to your help and input, the oil pan is figured out and I have a new 3-bolt balancer so I can use my existing pulleys. On to the next issue.
I have a practically new Pertronix distributor in my 302 that I was planning to use in the 351, but after doing a little research it sounds like the barrel (correct terminology?) and oil pump drives are different sizes. So, I’m wondering if I can use the factory distributor (Duraspark?) from the 351. Does it need an ECU or some other brain to make it run, or can I wire it similar to the Pertronix?
I’ll admit, I haven’t even googled the issue yet. This is the first stop on my research journey
Here’s what I’ve found regarding the distributor in case anyone’s interested. 302s and 351s don’t use the same distributors due to dimensional differences. The factory distributor will work but would need an ECU to run it. I don’t have the stock unit, and it probably wouldn’t work anyway since I won’t be using the factory EFI. So, I’ll be buying another “ready to run” electronic distributor. Bummer.
But I’m getting close. Other than constantly waiting on “delayed” shipments, things are progressing. USPS seems to be having real problems with lost packages this year.
Old one is out, the new one is in. The easy part’s over.
Next question for those that have done this before. It was a pipe dream, but I had hoped to use the headers from my 302 on the 351. That’s not gonna work. I’m assuming I can use standard 351w headers for a 1969 mustang/cougar, and I don’t have to spend the extra bucks for “swap” headers? Maybe shorties or mid-length headers are a better way to go?
I wasn’t planning to buy new headers, so this wasn’t in the budget. I’m trying to get by as inexpensively as I can. Thanks for any suggestions.
I have done that swap many times. Every time I do it I buy new tri - Y headers from Tony Branda. Those headers are designed for a 289 Shelby, they fit perfectly in a 67 - 68 Cougar with a C4.
If your Cougar is equipped with power steering you will have to use the PS ram drop bracket. Be sure to follow the directions and weld it to the frame.
I used 69 351 headers and like most headers I’ve seen, the collectors angled in towards the transmission. Add on top of that, I’m running a C6 trans. I used a porta power to gently pry the headers out more towards the subframe rails. I’m also using a different steering box, so I’ve eliminated the slave cylinder and the dropdown bracket and all that.
Another vote for tri-y’s- I used a set of Doug’s Headers and was easy install. Running a C-4 with power steering. Using a WCCC HD drop bracket after having problems with cheaper bracket not staying tight.
Thanks fellas. The tri-Y’s look like a good option, but after reading some of the product descriptions, some say they won’t work with 351’s and others say they won’t work with AOD transmissions (which I have). Maybe they’re different brand to brand? I’d hate to have to bash new headers.
I had headers on the 302 I removed, so I’ve already got the PS bracket. It’s not welded, so that’s something to think about while I’m in there.
A friend of mine used a 351W / AOD in his 1970 Cougar. The TV cable is very important on an AOD and his did not get adjusted right. Result was a trashed transmission.
Headers might be a problem with a non - stock transmission.
