It won’t downshift from 3 to 2 or 2 to 1 without coming to a crawl.
Occasionally when the car is cold it won’t go from 1 to 2 until after I’ve driven for a few minutes but the main problem is downshifting.
I did an internet search and this seems to be a common problem.
I adjusted the linkage using the 1/4 rod into the alignment holes. One lever had to be adjusted a hair for the rod to go all the way through.
I topped off the transmission with gear oil.
Very slight improvement 3 to 2 but still only at very slow speed.
I’m OK with braking and putting the car in neutral at a stoplight but going around turns is rather inconvenient.
Of note, I bought the car August 2016. The previous owner had the transmission overhauled in 2012 about 3000 miles ago. I didn’t drive it much over the summer and didn’t notice the problem until the cooler weather here in Phoenix and I was driving it several times a week.
I’ve attached a photo of the shift levers in case there is anything obvious about the positions.
Have you done the alignment of the linkage to the shifter using the little hole that is provided for that purpose? Otherwise this is exactly what I have encountered with a clutch that would not completely release. This can indicate a clutch disc failure.
I’ve not had clutch failure, but ended up being literally stuck in reverse a couple of times until the linkage was adjusted 100%. At least in the '69 Ford shop manual, there is a good write-up on how to make a little tool out of wire to line up the hole with the rods correctly.
I also would suggest changing the tranny oil–easy insurance. The rebuilders like using their groovy new synthetics/blends, but I’ve read on one of the toploader rebuilder sites that you should stick with plain old dino 90W:
When coming to a stop, downshifting wears your clutch, pressure
plate, linkage, and engine parts etc… brakes are much cheaper and WAY easier to replace… Just saying!
I know. But you still have to downshift around turns. It’s no fun going around a corner and having the car lug in 3d or hang up in neutral because it won’t go into 2d.
I have to disagree. Having been a stick driver forever, downshifting doesn’t wear bubcus. My downshifted clutches, etc. last forever and my brakes last pretty darn long too (because I downshift).
BTW, toploaders are famous for jammed shifting (shifts that won’t go into gear) because of worn shift lever lockout shuttles (they look like double-sided bullets). The sides of these bullet shaped pieces wear leading to jamming in their bores. This very effectively prevents the toploader internal shift rods from moving to the desired position. Have replaced them on a number of TL’s over the years.
Another question. I’m seeing recommendations on the Ford sites for GL-4 gear oil (not synthetic) but I’m finding either GL-5 or multi-application oils rated for GL-4 and GL-5. I also found a gear oil specific for synchromesh transmissions but it’s for Chrysler and GM. Lastly, a couple of recommendations were for 80w-140 for hot climates. Is that something I should use for Phoenix when summer gets here?
I agree with the adjustment, I had this issue on my '52 that I put a 390/top loader in. Also agree with downshifting to slow the vehicle down. Like DeadStang said, “it doesn’t feel right”. I was taught the same thing. My cougar is my 1st automatic. I’ve never had trans/clutch issues from slowing down. Just my .02
Why is the Synthetic not recommended in the TL? Every other Synthetic product I have used in other applications has made a noticable difference for the better.
Do they make a synthetic gear lube? Gear lube has sulphur as one of its ingredients and smells a bit. Gear lube is Extreme Pressure (EP) lubricant. TL’s are not made to use ATF type fluid like newer manual transmissions are.
Having said all that, this thread made me go do a little research. Turns out GL5 is not good for synchronizers: http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf Getting GL4 lube may be a challenge.
I am aware… That’s why I said to stop. Downshifting is inevitable, just can be minimized. Some people don’t care, and that’s fine. Just mentioning fun facts!
Downshifting does wear bubcus… And all the other things I mentioned. I’m not saying don’t do it… Especially to an expert like yourself… Although I’ve also driven many different manuals shifts “forever”. And owning and running an automotive repair shop “forever” , and also having the common sense to know that every single time you let out the clutch, there is wearing of most every part involved in the procedure, no matter how little… Then the fact that brakes are easier to replace than pulling transmissions, etc… But again I didn’t say don’t do it!!! Downshift your brains out bud!!!
Wow!!! This turned on a dime. I always downshifted when slowing for two reason, to keep the engine speed up in case I needed to make an avoidance maneuver, and to help slow the car. Crazy but that’s ALSO what they taught in driver’s ed. My clutch woes were always from clutch drop launches with high traction. And I did have trouble downshifting when the clutch was on its way out every time. Right before the obligatory slip under a full power shift into the next gear.
