I upgraded my 3rd member from a 2.75 to a 3.50
I replaced my axle bearings and seals plus all new back brakes and spring kits. Brake cylinders were changed a few years back.
So
After I changed everything and went for a ride I realized I needed to adjust the brakes( I made it so it was snug to put the drums on when I first did them). I adjusted them and everything seemed fine until I went for a 30-45 minute drive and could smell something burning. Smelt like plastic!
So
I took off the brake drums and there was a lot of brake dust. Also melt burnt. It was a mess because when it was over 400 degrees I took the liberty to cool it down with the garden hose! A hole lot of steam came from them. I wanted to cook them down fast so no to damage the axle seal and or bearings ( which are new). I took the air hose and brake clean to clean it all up.
Everything looks fine! Don’t get it!
To remove the drum. There was no tension. They come off and go back on easily.
I did both sides like that (both side looked the same). I put the drums on and a couple wheel nuts and started the car and ran it( on jack stands). Got to speed up to 70 mph for few minutes. Then without using the brakes it shut down the car and took off the drums to see if any differential fluid was leaking into the drum.
Nothing!
Did it again but this time I put the brakes on a number of times and you can hear them working as they should.
Took off the drums both sides and it all looks great!
Do get it!
Ever time I go for a drive longer the 15-20 minutes the brakes heat up to insane temps. More the driver’s side but still 445 degrees that crazy!
The only thing I couldn’t do on jack stands is simulate turning that would send differential fluid down the axle shafts towards the brakes.
Did you replace the rear brake hose? Sounds like it has failed internally. The lining splits inside and creates a one way valve.
All new brake lines and wheel cylinders. Emergency brake line r old but their free.
I’m worried if differential oil is seeping out and making my brake smell and heat up. Here r some pics
Sorry about the bad photography! Lol
The self adjusters seem to be out to far but the drums slide on easy no friction
Cable for self-adjusting mechanism should be in the groove in the curved guide piece, not behind it. The piece that contacts the adjuster wheel should be higher on the teeth.
This piece:
Sometimes the flanged portion wears away, keeping it from seating properly in the hole in the shoe.
I changed the picture. Hopefully this is more helpful.
I recently replaced everything in my drum brakes with new springs and hardware after repairing the shoe pads on my backing plates and replacing axle seals and bearings
The link also appears to be in the wrong place. I think maybe reassemble with an eye on the images in the shop manual
For some reason there are four spring / cap / links attaching each shoe to the drum. This is incorrect, there should be one assembly per shoe, or two per wheel.
Generally if the rear brakes are getting hot the front brakes are not working. It’s common to find the calipers swapped left - right. If the bleeder is pointing up on the front calipers they are swapped.
The cost of a combi kit & a quick tear down to inspect backing plate & start up from there- replace/restore adjusters, replace if notches are worn.
I changed the picture.
That shows what I would expect to see. Likely the fronts are screwed up too causing the rears to have to do all the work.
Good eye! I never noticed that cable behind that guide. I do apologize for the pics as it was hard to hold the phone and light.
But what I don’t get is why are the drums so easy to pull off. No resistance what so ever. You would think with how hot they would get. I would have a hell of a time to pull them off.
You don’t think rear end oil is getting onto the brakes and heating them up?
First of all there is no oil in your photo. Second if the oil was there they would be around 200 degrees - pretty cool.
They are easy to remove because they are out of adjustment. They are hot because the front brakes are not working.
You don’t think in that high temperature of 445 degrees it would evaporate?
They are not correctly installed. Start by studying the factory manual. It’s hot great images. It has to be exactly as shown.
I will redo them. I over looked that cable and I will check out the rest. I ordered two self adjusters and those cables. Should be in on Wednesday. I’ll let you know how it turns out. Thanks
I did a disk brake conversion 10 years ago and the brakes were decent, I recently went through and replaced the master cylinder, booster and proportioning valve as the brakes were getting pretty bad.
After all of this It was better but still not great ( shoes pads and cylinders were fine). When I seen Royces comments on the calipers possibly being swapped side to side being a common issue I’m wondering if I had them on wrong for the last 10 years, if I remember right the bleeders were on top when I bled the brakes.
I’m going to check in the morning, if that’s the case I owe Royce a big thank you.
Lol
Hope that work out for you.
When my new parts come in. I’ll redo the brake and let you all know how it worked
I had a similar problem on my Explorer some years back.
It was intermittent and would blister the rear brake shoes.
It turns out that the factory rear brake metal line got plugged and was not allowing the fluid to return back to the master cylinder and the rear brakes were stuck. I only found the problem when the line finally permanently plugged up.
Before that, it was intermittent and I went through several sets of rear brake shoes.
Try bleeding the rear brakes to verify the fluid volume is correct. Weak volume may indicate a line problem.
The bleeders have to be on top - the calipers won’t fit any other way.
If they are correct the bleeder ports face the rear of the car.
If the calipers are swapped the bleeder ports face upwards.