That’s what I was thinking, as responded as well on the 7123 Mustang forum.
Never had an issue before so I can’t see it being plugged. How would I check that?
Make sure someone didn’t replace the fitting with a bolt. Make sure the rubber hose is in place.
I’ll check it out shortly
so
I just put it all back together. The 4 contact spots. I cleaned up and there were deep groves that I ground gently and filled in with welds then ground down smooth. Added high temp grease. Everything is how it should be. I pulled the vent line and blew it out. It was fine. I will pull the fill plug and let any oil leak out. Then I’ll test her again! If it happens again. I’m going to cap off the back brakes.
Usually if axles seals leak, the brake shoes are history. How much did they leak and it could be the sealed bearings are history and leaked the little grease they have in them.
WELL
I’m at my Witt’s end! Did as everyone suggested and everything looks perfect! But still smell gear oil! I pulled the plug and some gear Oil drained out. So I jacked up the car to get a little more out just to make sure enough drained out.
Went for a cruise and still I smell gear oil coming from the back brakes! WTF! Sorry! Just frustrated!
Were the axles turning freely after you did the seals and bearings? Sounds like maybe the seal wasn’t all the way in and the bearing was rubbing on it.
If you did not get a good job of cleaning the parts and replace the shoes you will still get that stink. You can not get it out of the linings.
It was all cleaned and was done correctly.
I don’t even know what to say after all of this! I never leaked before I changed the third member and fearing and seals but know it dose! So it can’t be the axle it itself (worn down where the seal is) used two pairs of seals from Napa. Unless I still have to much oil in the differential. Which I thought that what seals r supposed to do is stop oil! So draining more oil and putting the diff in a position that may over heat to damage it doesn’t make sense
That or the housing vent if plugged pushing oil toward the seals. Also if it did leak enough, the drums themselves will absorb oil and they will smell.
Can you help me understand why you think oil is going to cause this to overheat? Correct me if I am wrong, but this was getting hot just going down the road. Heat is caused by friction.
Oil on the breaks will make them stick.
And that do smell.
Went out for a ride today and mostly hwy with little breaking and when we stopped I and my wife could smell that burnt oil smell. So for some reason the seals are getting an over load of oil and it’s getting past the seals.
I had 2.75 gears and put in 3.50 gears. I take it their spinning a lot faster and shooting oil all over compared to the old differential. But that should not matter. Right?
Did you replace the shoes or just clean them? People seem to be saying that the shoes have absorbed the oil and need to be replaced.
I cleaned them with brake cleaner the sanded them with 80 grit sand paper. They look like new.
I pulled the drain plug on the differential while the car is on level ground and no oil came out. I had previously drain some oil out while the back end was jacked up to make sure there wasn’t too much oil in the differential. So I know it is over filled and still leaking past the new seals. Like I said I look at the axles and they looked fine. And they never leaked with the old seals. I really don’t get it.
It kind of scary but I have been working on these cars for 50 years now. So far I have never encountered gear oil making things stick. Can some one explain how that works? Does the lining material expand and then contact the drum?
Anyway I think that you are dealing with a seal that is not installed properly (not pushed in far enough) and the bearing is rubbing on it. At this point I would at least pull the axle and give it a look. Reverse the drum to use it as the puller.
Are you seeing evidence of more axle grease or smelling it? I don’t think I could distinguish burning oil from burning brakes without being able compare each directly. If you’re going by smell alone, don’t be too certain it is oil and not burning linings.
Don’t assume all your new brake components are good. When I rebuilt my brake system my RR brake was not releasing. I also had the grooves in the backing plate that I suspected at first. I replaced the backing plate but still had the problem until I re-replaced the wheel cylinder. It was a ridge inside my 1st new wheel cylinder that was catching on the cup seal so the brake couldn’t fully release.
I pulled the drain plug to see if it was over filled and no it wasn’t. I have been hearing about a sleeve you can put on to correct any imperfections. So I bought 2 but I will have to buy seals for 31 spline to make this work.
As for the seals not being installed all the way in. They were but there have been people as more then one that say if there is imperfections on the axle. Don’t put the seal all the way in. 1/4 out and it will by pass the imperfections.
I by no means know if I’m right or wrong just reading a lot. If their right or wrong I really don’t know. I don’t mean to sound stand offish as texting can make you sound like a prick when your not trying to sound like one:blush:
The sleeves won’t fit a 28 spline axle. If your axles are boogered up on the ends the remedy is to replace them. They are generally pretty cheap and easy to get from WCCC used in good condition. New bearings and bearing retainers are needed, as well as the two gaskets for the backing plates / axle retainers / rear end housing - one paper and one metal on each side of the car.